I had no idea these even existed. I was looking for regular rechargeable batteries and found a whole selection of USB 9V's. I've had bad luck with my chargers going bad, so I ordered a pair from Amazon. Have you guys used them before?
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Have you guys used rechargeable USB 9V's in your markers?
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I only buy Lithium batteries from well established brands and even then only smaller ones. Fire fire fire. I don’t like fire, or having my bone marrow deionized for that matter. (I won’t get into the details). I work with large LiPo shit occasionally at work and frankly it’s terrifying. Buy an electric car only if your garage is un-attached, and has huge water lines for the fire suppression. That’s my advice.
So is there a chip in these batteries? Or are they open loop like most rechargeable in traditional form factors? And if not, how does one get 9V from USB? Are the batteries actually two 4.5 in parallel?
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Originally posted by SignOfZeta View PostI only buy Lithium batteries from well established brands and even then only smaller ones. Fire fire fire. I don’t like fire, or having my bone marrow deionized for that matter. (I won’t get into the details). I work with large LiPo shit occasionally at work and frankly it’s terrifying. Buy an electric car only if your garage is un-attached, and has huge water lines for the fire suppression. That’s my advice.
So is there a chip in these batteries? Or are they open loop like most rechargeable in traditional form factors? And if not, how does one get 9V from USB? Are the batteries actually two 4.5 in parallel?
https://www.amazon.com/Delipow-Lithi...4021774&sr=8-4
I will report back with my findings once I use them
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I'm curious on the performance. I've found that most Lithium Ion batteries don't work that long in markers - if I get a day of play from a battery, I consider that good. I've had better luck with Nickel Hydride rechargeable ones but just slightly. It gets old taking off grip screws at the field so I've taken to just using alkalines since those last forever and using the rechargeable 9Vs for other household things. Only marker I use rechargeable in is an Etha 2 only because battery removal doesn't require tools.
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I actually wound up getting these which are 700 mAh, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
which is more than regular 9V's in terms of efficiency, (at least on paper, we'll see.) Regular 9V's are 5-600 mAh, But regular 9V's dont last for shit in a marker either, they're usually only good for one day. And if you're using some of the less efficient boards, forget it.
I just hope the cells last over time. They advertise: "Rechargeable Up to 1000 cycles"
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Yeah, 9V were never designed for actual mechanical work. They are supposed to be for very low draw electronics like smoke detectors and AM radios. Putting them in the Revolution...didn’t really make a lot of sense. Powering a solenoid would also be way out of character.
I have a lot of rechargeable AAs at home. Mainly because of Tamiya Mini4WD but also for drum machines and such. My experience is that 1000 cycles is wildly optimistic. In a lab, sure. But in real life, hardly. They have little/no ICs in then so if they are used in something like a Mini4WD car all the stress from the motor EMI just shreds the poor things. The LiPo in a laptop or a drill has loads of circuitry to handle every amp that goes into or out of it, filter caps, etc, minimum state of charge. The Duracell or whatever is just wired directly like any AA and the charger isn’t much more sophisticated.
Also in real life people drain the suckers down to nothing in a flashlight and then recharge it a year later. That’s probably going to take 200 charges off the estimated life cycle, if not all 1000.
There are things in life still worth using alkaline batteries for. Yes, they get chucked every time but the rechargeable almost always have a lower voltage at %100 and lower current output as well. After a year or two they get recycled too, and they cost a lot more in the first place. Also, alkalines are very hard to blow up by comparison. With rechargeables, especially small low end ones, you never know where you’re at. This is why cops and technicians hospitals and stuff rarely f with rechargeable. They need identical performance every day. The shift doesn’t get shorter just because the battery is old.
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Thanks for the info. If I can even get half of the the supposed 1k cycles at 80% of the rated 700 mAh -- I'd be happy. Thankfully paintballing isnt life or death. As long as the noid clicks and the gun goes pew pew, I'll be happy. Plus, technological advancements have to be taken into consideration. I'll be you guys' guinea pig and test em out for ya/ll
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Originally posted by SignOfZeta View PostI only buy Lithium batteries from well established brands and even then only smaller ones. Fire fire fire. I don’t like fire, or having my bone marrow deionized for that matter. (I won’t get into the details). I work with large LiPo shit occasionally at work and frankly it’s terrifying. Buy an electric car only if your garage is un-attached, and has huge water lines for the fire suppression. That’s my advice.
So is there a chip in these batteries? Or are they open loop like most rechargeable in traditional form factors? And if not, how does one get 9V from USB? Are the batteries actually two 4.5 in parallel?
When you put in a sprinkler system, for instance, you have to find out what the company deals with and factors are taken into consideration as to what type of system, how many gallons per hour and such that the "medium" needs to flow (this is most often water). After completing the system you have to write a letter for the record as it were, that in your professional licensed experience that the suppression systems and devices in place are capable of containing or controlling the blaze.
You simply can't say that for MANY types of battery fire.
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We had a prototype vehicle burn to the ground once. Thank God it was outside in a truck when it caught fire. The smell of a car fire is bad enough but at the heart of it is a massive 400V battery that is impossible to put out and outgassing TERRIFYING chemical compounds. If a battery like this has an internal thermal runaway issue there is no way on Earth to stop it. You can slow it down by submerging it in water but really the only thing can do is pull the alarm, call the fire department, and leave.
The fire we had was a relatively small vehicle by today’s fat f**k standard. If this was an electric F-250 it would be massively hotter and more dangerous.
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I have used EBL 9V batteries for several years in all my markers. I have had no issues with any of them from the LV1, Pimp, Bob Long's, Rize and my current shocker. My son used them in his guns including a CS1 and LV1.5. I used them in my hoppers as well until I recently moved to a CTRL and the InCharge. The EBL's have never let me down. I have been using them since 2014 and I go about every other weekend. I was using 2 sets of them and alternating between sets each week but now that I only use them on my gun, I just go through them however I grab them. I bring the rest with me just in case but have never used them. They are great and have saved me a lot of money. I know a lot of people don't like them but I have never had any issues with them on any of my equipment. I also used one in my chrono and in a year, never had to change it out.-------------
Markers: Ripper Emek | A-Team LV2 | Hormesis LV2 | Skulls Emek
Gear: CTRL Hoppers | IR2 Hoppers | HK Alpha Air tanks w/Powerhouse Regs | Carbon IC Barrels
Clothes: Carbon Zero and multiple Proflex Masks | Carbon SC base layer | Jersey Clinics Jerseys | CK Hefe 2.5 Bandana Pants | Shulook Hiking Shoes
Home Field: Hoppers, Savannah GA
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One of the reasons I moved away from rechargeables was the need to both remember to charge them & to use the proper charger. Then I felt guilty for NOT using rechargeables, so I moved away from electros. Now I feel guilty for letting my electros collect dust...
Do they also have USB AA's? Cuz whenever an electro comes out of retirement, the Spire IR comes out.
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