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Limited paint setups fun for recball. Tipx, Stormer Elite, something else?

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    #16
    The Stormer is kind of like my main magfed setup, though it's nice these days you don't have to literally build it.

    Click image for larger version

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    Mine is based on an older A5, but overall function is basically the same, though mine has a big pile of rare aftermarket goodies. Sometimes that's half the fun.

    So a light, quick setup, with nothing on top so you can come out of cover in all kinds of weird directions without presenting a big hopper as a target.

    Mine was quite a hit at my Nephew's bachelor party, a very newb and renter heavy environment. Plus after playing most of a day with just 14 rounds in a mag (two stacks of 7, you have to flip them half way through, so basically stock class without the tubes), when I switched to my hopper fed autococker near the end of the day a 200 round hopper felt like it would last forever.

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      #17
      One of my favorites when I wanted a little "firepower" (AKA, not playing pump that time) was an Invert Mini with a 50 round gravity feed, 13ci HPA tank, and 8" Deadly wind barrel.
      Oh, and apparently a rubber bayonet duct taped to the barrel.

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        #18
        I've tried a bunch of different limited paint configurations to keep things interesting over the years. Pump and stock class play were getting a little boring for me, and I didn't like the difficulty of countering a bunkering attempt, which lead me to get into magfed play. I've tried using a TMC, TiPX, Tiberius T8 and T8.1, and the Eclipse EMF. One thing to immediately realize about magfed play is that ball breaks are ubiquitous- the shock imparted into the stack of balls in a magazine when you insert the mag into the gun is very stressful for paintballs, and will often crack the 1st or 2nd ball in the magazine. You won't realize this until you actually shoot the ball and it explodes, so it will look like a chop or a barrel break, but it wasn't. This plagues all magfed guns, even the otherwise super-easy-on-paint Emek/EMF, so be ready for that.

        Cleaning out these guns' breeches after a break is usually pretty time-consuming in the staging area, though the EMF is better than most in this regard. Certainly better than the TiPX, which is especially annoying to re-assemble at the field. There's a number of components on that gun that I would recommend super-gluing together most of the time to prevent having to have three hands when you're putting it back together.

        That Stormer you're looking at probably isn't much better than the TMC I had, in that it's still a bunch of bolts that have to be removed to bisect the gun, like an M98, to get at the guts. I wish they had made the right side of the receiver into two parts, like on later M98 variants, to aid in this disassembly.

        Still, though, using a magfed gun against walk-ons or the local tournament people with their hopper-fed guns is good fun, and a lot more satisfying than handicapping an otherwise normal gun by feeding it with tubes. I've tried both.

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        • Miles
          Miles commented
          Editing a comment
          You just convinced me to skip it entirely. There is nothing I find more aggravating than dealing with breaks… I'll stick to a 50 round hopper with a tall stack, and 10 round tubes. Thanks for the post, you just saved me some cash and a lot of headaches.

        • The Inflicted

          The Inflicted

          commented
          Editing a comment
          But wait, I didn't get to tell you about having to scramble between games to reset and refill all your magazines!

        • nak81783

          nak81783

          commented
          Editing a comment
          For the EMF, after loading the mag, slowly let the follower forward until it puts pressure on the balls. Then back it off a click or two until the balls just start to rattle ever so slightly. I had two breaks last year (one in mag, one in gun). I started the aforementioned tactic this year and no breaks yet. Also have to switch paint as it gets colder. Field paint below 50-ish. Winter paint below 35-ish.

          For my TiPX, I never broke in the mags, but definitely in the breech. I found the paint had to survive a drop from shoulder height onto concrete at whatever temp I was playing in, or else the TiPX would break it in the marker. This got a little frustrating, as the mid grade stuff I typically shoot would meet this criteria one case but break on the first drop the next case. Switching to field grade resulted in way too many bounces off opponents, which is frustrating with a pistol - hard enough to get the hit sometimes just to watch it bounce off.

          I just bought a small dump pouch. Might try the single loading I’ve read some of you guys do, because yes, there are times when even the EMF is too much.

        #19
        If your going magfed go all in or not at all PE EMF100 with there expensive mags. The cheap mag fed markers are finicky require a bunch of trial and error mods to function properly. The best ones are home built customs, and the Planet Eclipse marker. The bottom and middle of the road mag fed markers will need a lot of attention and mods to work properly. 90% of them don’t work right out of the box. Definitely not to the standards I expect from a marker I want to use regularly.

        If I were you I would save yourself a bunch of headache and pick up a PbDNA JoLo hopper with one of the new 2” round 4.5k tanks and drop that on your cocker. There is a guy on eBay selling 50round pod packs with pods cheap. You can be into it for about what you would spend on that mag fed marker with mags but have a much more reliable setup you’re already comfortable with.

        When I play rentals I use a stick feed and 10round tubes. I got a stick feed for pretty much everything I own. Small tanks and 12g are my go to. You could always go that route as well.

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        • Miles
          Miles commented
          Editing a comment
          I'm going this route. I'll just get a hopper and tubes, and skip the headache of tuning a new gun.

        #20
        breaks with a lightly sprung pump are virtually non existent once you get used to the rhythm of shooting and the feeling of a correct reload. if a ball is only
        partially loaded, its easy to feel and fix. just flip your gun upward and pump carefully to let the ball roll in/out without breaking and carry on
        for nelsons, i like to remove the spring that goes over the pump rod and on snipers i use the lightest hammer and return springs i can. once you know what it feels like to "almost chop", it pretty much never happens again

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          #22
          Stock class Phantom setup, add a 13ci tank if you don't wanna deal with 12grams. They're so fun and light they're hard to beat!

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