Announcement

**XEMON** · 05-31-2022, 12:09 PM

Ok, I think I found a way to bump up the velocity a bit ... Gonna do some testing and get a few parts, but I'm 90% sure it will work 👍

Also, some pics for reference:

Attached Files

**COB** · 05-31-2022, 07:37 PM

MCS finally came thru. My HDR68's arrived. First thing is to install one of Xemon's CO2 knobs. more important than paint or CO2, for us manually challenged individuals. I have a up modded 50 valve that I can try in this beast.

**Nyknight01** · 05-31-2022, 08:10 PM

Heres the report I post in FB I got mine from Amazon in two...130 with two extra mags...(5) total.

.First day fielded report...
Wow factor 10.. people were def digging a 68 revolver
Out of box operation 9
First five at the Chrono....290..300..280..281...279 (my co2s were old...and kept cold...and used em on a 95+ def day?
Used 5 loaders....25 rnds.
Last 3 shots 260 252..245 (still nice enough over the advertised 230)
Pretty accurate also as far as the sights were concerned...
Now
Reliability....eh...<5
First five.loaders after the initial run 1 break out of the 25..
Next set..2nd loader broke 4..
Next loader...no breaks but it felt hot..and sounded hot..I fired 3 and walked off to the Chrono...4th shot..(shot number 19-20)
350..335!
Now...after that I tried to release the
Loader and it was jammed! Couldn't pull the trigger...nor free spin the magazine...
It would not slide out of the body ..
And the co2 cap was jammed..(I guess remaining CO2)
So that ended it's first field day.
Got it home...used a chopstick...broke the remaining ball (half loaded in the breech ..
And pushed what I can only assume is the front of the regulator back a bit to free the magazine.

Maybe it was first day break in ...at least I hope so ..
Also I found that at the end of the co2 the red indicator remains out as there is residual CO2.... depressing that expels it and makes the ASA cap much easier to remove ....

**Nyknight01** · 05-31-2022, 08:21 PM

I'm seeing a lot of people commenting on the difficult removal of the spent CO2....I found that pushing in the indicator vents the remaining CO2 (even a lill makes turning it difficult) and the ASA comes of really easy . I also dow33d the seal on the knob...I'd love to know what size/material they are if anyone knows off hand

**Bow** · 06-01-2022, 02:15 PM

Just got mine in. Smaller than the drv and lighter too. It'll be fun to mod it for sure.

Ive already found myself reaching for a non existent hammer to play with lol.

The trigger safety is a bit odd to me. Not the device itself but a more prevalent way to safety it.
But I guess with it being designed for self defence it makes a big more sense to not. Have a crossbar or something like that.

**Bow** · 06-02-2022, 10:55 AM

Welp, not good results for me. 26/30 breaks.

Paint was old midgrade paint and not white box grade. It got gooed up really good, so I guess my first maintenance will be a bit earlier than I thought. Thank goodness I bought this for PB and not as like a pepperball launcher.

Im sure FS will be better, but I was still heartbroken when nearly every single ball broke. I'll update with new paint and FS.

**The Inflicted** · 06-02-2022, 04:56 PM

Everyone is reporting some pretty disappointing results using paintballs. Are people still thinking that cylinder/barrel alignment is the problem? Is there any way to flare/chamfer the breech end of the barrel to alleviate this?

**Nyknight01** · 06-03-2022, 09:20 AM

I'd definitely doesn't like good quality paint...I found my field paint more forgiving than let's say tournament grade empire.empire. Maybe it's the valve design? I'm seeing most of my breaks in the cylinder...which either means....the cylinder isn't perfectly aligning with the barrel....and the air is just smacking the ball into the edge crushing it...or the unregulated blast of CO2 it self ..
most of my pistol experience is...old style stbb ie deltas zueses etc....or the tipx which was blow fwd bolt with a regulated valve....
the aforementioned has "control" over the pressure... whether it be a hammer strike on a poppet valve or the regulator on the valve itself. The hdr doesn't...
what blasts out of the co2 it what it is.. directly at the back of the paintball.
At least that's my logic and doesn't mean I have dug into the market to see exactly what it can be nor if my theory holds value.
The point is...for the look of it...and its quasi function and cool factor....to me...
it was worth the >140 I paid for it.

**TKcustoms** · 06-03-2022, 03:55 PM

I got mine a few days ago and it will not shoot empire custom blend. Graffiti was okay and valken infinity worked the best. I looked at one of the infinity balls that broke/chopped/ blended and it looks like the back of the ball is punched out.

Since the cylinders have detents the revolving action can't chop the ball and the paint was a bore match so it isn't getting the big squeeze either. Im done testing for the day but tomorrow I'll see if the bolt comes forward when aired up. If it doesn't that gap between the ball and the bolt is huge and could explain why round ball is breaking and why fsr is apparently fine.

**The Inflicted** · 06-03-2022, 04:09 PM

One trick I sometimes used with my .50 revolver was to pack the back of the balls down with a little bit of tissue paper or cotton ball. Wonder if that might help the blow-through issue at all.

**XEMON** · 06-03-2022, 04:38 PM

I am strongly thinking the breakage is coming from teh impact of the bolt onto teh ball and not the air ...

The front of the bolt has a "ventury style" face ... it looks a hell of a lot like a mag bolt (similar valve design)

I am wondering if putting a foamy tip, similar to the one on mag bolts, wil help reduce breakage ...
Does anyone know what those foammy tips are made out of?

**The Inflicted** · 06-03-2022, 04:42 PM

Originally posted by XEMON View Post

I am strongly thinking the breakage is coming from teh impact of the bolt onto teh ball and not the air ...

The front of the bolt has a "ventury style" face ... it looks a hell of a lot like a mag bolt (similar valve design)

I am wondering if putting a foamy tip, similar to the one on mag bolts, wil help reduce breakage ...
Does anyone know what those foammy tips are made out of?

Wait, so it's a revolver but there's still a bolt that makes contact with and chambers each round? Through the cylinder?

**Nyknight01** · 06-03-2022, 05:19 PM

Originally posted by The Inflicted View Post

Wait, so it's a revolver but there's still a bolt that makes contact with and chambers each round? Through the cylinder?

I didn't pull it apart yet but I believe that is the case as there is a spring in front of the bulb which almost looks like a blow forward type thing you find an automags..
Xemon... They are a dense foam however I have made 3D copies of them in flex material which work on Automags... Once I mess with the gun a little more I'll be a little more intrepid to tear it down and take a look

**XEMON** · 06-03-2022, 07:52 PM

Made an awesome foamy tip:

But once it's aired up, the bolt move forward and become flush to the cylinder ... So the cylinder won't turn with the foamy tip:

On a good news, after the third attempt at upping the velocity, I'm now between 250 and 280 fps on a fresh CO2 👍
I may or or may not try to go a bit higher ... I really don't want to go above 3 and have to drop it down ...

And here is a "slow mo" (as slow as my phone can take) of the bolt firing:

**BrickHaus** · 06-03-2022, 08:31 PM

S9. Xemon has me thinking. Let's get dimensions for that foamie tip figured out and we can 3d print a mold. Then with my rocket foam, I pour a 2 part polyurethane foam to make a bunch in one shot.

Announcement

Umarex to make a 68 caliber, 5-shot revolver- HDR-68

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