Dye DFF-20 Lazarus Valve

[Murph]

My Lazarus valve is in! I had to mod the stock set screw on my trilogy so it would sit just recessed from the bottom face of the body - It took about 30 minutes with a file and a lot of patience because I didn't want to go too far and have no meat for the hex wrench to grab. I'm going to be trying with the stock hammer, SLPS Springs and a basic delrin bolt I got off of e-bay.

[Brokeass_baller]

Anyone have any efficiency numbers yet? Specifically around 12g.

Thinking of putting one in a empire sniper

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Since you can't see the comments on your last post.

[Cdn_Cuda]

Mine finally arrived and went to drop it into my 2k5 Black Magic….. but it won’t fit. The body isn’t milled deep enough to fit the crown. So into the sniper it goes!

[zinger565]

I think you'll really like it in the Sniper, especially if you grab a lighter hammer spring.

[Cdn_Cuda]

I had a full Inception spring kit kicking around, so threw the lightest spring it in. Figured out what my Sniper valve exploded in the first place, the reg is no longer regulating and was putting 800psi directly into the marker. Swapped for a spare Black Magic reg, set it under 200 and screwed in the velocity and everything seems happy. Need to shoot some paint now and check velocity

[Trbo323]

Since you can't see the comments on your last post.

Thanks for doing that. If I know there are comments I can go log in on the Web page version. So no need to take screen shots.

I'm not worried about the rings. Technically I'm not supposed to run the empire sniper on co2 either and yet it works just fine.

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[scuzzy]

Just ordered one for my sniper with my ID hammer. Hope to move to a lighter spring.

[jetenginekyle]

Hi I'm new to forum, I've a pre2k autococker that I would like some help identifying, it's definitely pre2k (the bango bolt def pre2k) I was told it's a wgp,but not really sure about that though, any help would be appreciated thank you

Make a separate thread in the ask the experts section

[Carp]

I moved it...👍

[Murph]

So far it seems to work well in my Trilogy. I went with the SLP hammer spring and had to turn it in pretty far to get usable velocity, I'm running right in the ballpark of 200 PSI - I don't have my own reg tester so I borrowed the one at the field and started at 200, dialed it back a little bit because it got better velocity. I had to turn the IVG all the way in almost to the point of interfering with the hammer operation to get 280 FPS though. Note that you are NOT going to see huge velocity increases at higher pressures, I accidentally was running at 500 PSI (I had a High Pressure CP reg, not the LP model and didn't realize that.)

Stock trilogy hammer and an A1 Anodizing bolt, which just looks like a delrin copy of the stock bolt. I did time it as close to the stock timing as I could return to, just to be safe.

It does seem noticeably smoother than the stock confirguration, but it's in a trilogy sport which has some pretty stiff springing to accommodate unregged co2.

I think it's a winner. Consistency is very good when your paint actually matches your bore.

[iamthelazerviking]

Interesting. Saw a trilogy with Inception lightest spring and IVG flush, 350 psi shooting in 280s. Has some other cool things done to it but needing to turn ivg in that far sounds like something is going on

[Kit]

I have the same results with slps springs on my bored out cocker body. Also tried them with stock hammer and delrin hammer. I need to play with different spring and hammer weights.

[Pope74]

I have a pre2k that I'm running as a pump, I was thinking about having bored to run the dye lazerith valve and Jenni kreig hammer any thoughts would be helpful, also I run it on 12g no reg

[latches109]

What do you expect to gain? I get 38 full velocity shots off my pre-2k 12g setup.

[Pope74]

Just curious, was wanting to get new lower internals, and was wondering if it would be worth having it bored to 2k specs, or if anyone had suggestions on lower internals for pre2k pump

[Euphie]

If I am understanding the operation correctly, which I may not be, merely removing an O-ring should allow this to function in a blowback right? Or if that isn't enough flow just shaving part of the shaft down so that air can more easily flow past it. This seems like you could take a spyder and use a really light hammer and really light springs, and still get good velocity out of it. The idea of a valve that is a bit more pressure agnostic sounds really good to me.

[flyweightnate]

I think this would be a complex problem. There is likely not enough area around the stem to make it work.
The Kingman Eko valve uses a hole drilled parallel to the pin, like the Tornado valve. This would be the best way to modify one; then it could be plugged with epoxy if you want to return it to a Sniper/ Cocker.
The lower pressure may need a cupped hammer and very light spring, which may then require a lighter sear spring, which might affect resetting speed... but I'm gonna say you should try it and let us know what happens!

[flyweightnate]

I think Imped4now would have better insight on whether that escape of blowback gas will impact dwell. Took me a minute to figure out what he meant, but the vent in the stem uses the rise in chamber pressure to push the poppet closed. If the blowback vent isn't sized right, the chamber pressure rise will lead, or possibly lag, the blowback cycle, leading to unreliable cycle if it closes too early, or gas up the stack if it closes too late.

If you decide to drill one, I'd start with a very small port, and gradually work your way up. Not like you're going to put transducers in your breech and hammer to time the pulse so incremental is the safer bet.

[latches109]

I would modify the balanced valve from a spyder VS. The dual chamber is a better design for blowback.

[scuzzy]

I've got an empire sniper. Lazarus arrives tomorrow. I plan to install with the ID universal hammer and the lightest ID hammer spring. Any experience with this setup? Does that look problematic to anyone in the know?

Reg is a hyper 2. All else is stock.

[scuzzy]

installed the lazarus valve, ID hammer, and the lightest ID hammer spring. IVG is flush. running at 200psi with reballs, shot around 310. backed off to 180psi, shot at 266. turned up to 190psi and started running out of air. eager to try this with paint outside with the chrono.

This is with the front bolt O-ring removed. so far, I like the valve. I think it accomplished what I wanted it to. I think I could even go lighter on the spring. no farting. eager to see how consistent it is. definitely running at lower pressures.

[scuzzy]

If there is an intermittent air leak before being cocked, what causes that? Hammer putting too much pressure on the valve at rest?

If so, should I cut down a hammer spring for less pressure at rest?

[Brokeass_baller]

Nah bro. Just cock it before airing it up.

[imped4now]

Just cock it before gassing up.

[scuzzy]

So I can't stop tweaking, but this is the current state of the sniper.

Lazarus installed, working great. Getting solid consistency now after some spring changes. Here are the modifications done so far.

• Dye Lazarus valve
• One detent removed
• Front bolt o-ring removed
• Inception designs universal Hammer
• CCM Hammer spring

IVG is sitting flush. Pressures at 180-190psi according to the cheapo gauge on the marker. Pump stroke is very smooth, fairly light, but with good return, which I prefer. Might hit up ace for some pump return springs.

This was my Chrono string.

[Cdn_Cuda]

I am not having a lot of luck with my Lazarus valve yet. Shooting in the 220 to 240 range but purging a lot of air when shooting. I think my HPR is too high. Using the lightest ID main spring.

[imped4now]

Gauging an HPR is easy...

I'd guess it's too low, as this valve doesn't respond to chamber pressure like a standard unbalanced valve does.

[Cdn_Cuda]

The HPR appears to have been the issue. Swapped it out and things are fine. Trying to disassemble that problematic reg and parts are jammed, so understandable why issues were happening. I do have a nice pressure gauge for my HPRs.