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Bad Boyz Toyz
17913 S. Torrence Avenue
Lansing, IL 60438
Phone: (708) 418-8888
Fax: (708) 418-8890

P&P Paintball Connection
30917 Dequindre
Madison Heights, MI 48071
Phone: (248) 589-2739
Fax: (248) 589-3244

Wall Charger
Warped Sportz
3970 South Broadway
FAX - 303-806-9726

G-Force Racing
1661 Denison St., PO Box 76614
Markham, ON L3R 4N5
Tel: 905-477-1338
Email G-Force


HSI Exotic Sports West
125 Pearl Street, Pinkney, MI 48169
(313) 878-2002

Smart Parts
Mailing Address:
PO Box 3200
Latrobe, PA 15650-5000
Delivery Address:
Loyalhanna Business Complex
100 Station Street
Loyalhanna, PA 15661
Phone: 724-539-2660
Fax: 724-539-2298

Phone: (707) 571-1077

Ravi's Paintball Place

Paintball Games International Shorts for "Dope": May

Shocktech Autococker bolt

From Bad Boyz Toyz’s Autococker wizard, Danny Love, comes a new high-performance bolt for the Autococker. This light half-aluminum, half-delrin design includes an angled-forward inlet for improved efficiency and low pressure operation. It’s face is a venturi design with three huge holes to couple effective blast dispersion with low resistance to flow. The result is the Shocktech Autococker bolt, now included in all Bad Boyz Toyz Shocktech and Westwood Autocockers, also available separately for addition to other, lesser ’guns.

I had one of these in my own custom Westwood for several months before it (the whole ’gun, not just the bolt) was stolen at Skyball. Up to that point, I had excellent performance. Coupled with the Shocktech RAT valve II, this bolt allowed the ’gun to operated beautifully at ~300 psi. Efficiency was typical for the RAT II with a top-end free-flowing bolt: about 1100 shots from a 68 ci, 3000 psi nitrogen system. I almost never broke paint in the ’gun, and when I did, it was always attributable to a poor paint-barrel fit.

The Shocktech bolt is a new design with cutting edge features, and comes from a company with an excellent reputation for top-end Autococker work.

Shocktech Spyder bolt

Anyone familiar with the hugely successful Spyder knows that there is a HUGE variety of aftermarket bolts and bolt-systems currently available. Quick-strip designs are some of the newest and most popular fads. But since the bolt is coupled to the hammer by a fixed pin, stripping the ’gun usually requires pulling out not just the bolt, but the hammer, velocity adjuster, mainspring, spring-guide, and bumper. Whether you can pull them out quickly or not is irrelevant. Not many people want all these parts dumped out in their laps in the middle of a game while trying to use a pull-through squeegee, much less trying to get them all back in in the correct order with someone bearing down on them with intent to bunker.

This is why I’m so impressed with the Shocktech Spyder bolt. This unassuming bolt has a relatively standard 6 hole venturi face, lightweight milled-down design, and what appears to be a rear-cocking knob. But that is no ordinary cocking knob. In fact, a twist of the knob causes the pin which couples the bolt to the hammer to retract up into the body of the bolt just far enough to free the bolt and clear the velocity adjuster. The pin stays down far enough to stay in the groove between the upper and lower receivers and prevents the bolt from spinning freely. Thus, when you need to clean your barrel, just twist the knob, jerk the bolt out the back, and squeegee away! Replacing the bolt is just as easy. Shove it back in and give the knob a twist back in the other direction to drop the pin back into the top of the hammer.

I love this design. It’s simple, it’s clever, and it doesn’t leave you with a handful of parts to piece back together when all you want to do is squeegee your barrel.

Shocktech Spyder Low Pressure Chamber

OK, so this part isn’t so unique. Everybody and their brother makes a low pressure chamber for the Spyder. Bad Boyz Toyz wasn’t even first to market with this clever little piece. Doesn’t that make them as derivative as everyone else?

Not necessarily. The first low pressure chamber for the Spyder that I know of having been seen publicly was on a Spyder built by Danny Love and shot by Renick Miller in the 1997 World Cup. Shortly thereafter the market was flooded with these simple chambers by every company that had access to aluminum stock and a mill.

For those not familiar with Spyder low pressure chambers, they screw into the front of the paintgun just in front of the valve. They are simple empty chambers that provide the valve with a large ready volume of air that doesn’t have to be drawn further through hoses and fittings to reach the valve. The effect of this is that you can run the paintgun at lower pressures and still get both sufficient velocity. Perhaps more importantly, this allows the Spyder to continue cycling properly at MUCH lower pressures, avoiding the dreaded full-auto fart even after your tank has frozen over or run down near empty.

Best of all, at $19.99 the Shocktech low pressure chamber is one of the least expensive chambers available so supporting innovation isn’t even hard on the pocketbook.

Separated at Birth?

No, you aren’t seeing double. Both P&P and KAPP have released surprisingly similar custom back-blocks for the Autococker. Both companies offer their blocks in both black anodizing and chrome.

KAPP’s new block has a hexagonal shape around the bolt-hole and cones down at the back to where the bolt enters.

The P&P block (which has been out quite a bit longer) has a more standard squared off shape with rounded edges and a curved back giving the whole piece a clean "P" shape that curves around smoothly to meet the bolt.

Naturally, neither of these blocks will give your ’gun any sort of performance benefit, but they are both well made, look cool, and can help give your ’gun that extra bit of custom-look to help it stand out in the crowd.


Like the flexibility and ease of use of Micro-line, but don’t like the flow restriction and burst-prone 350 psi rated operating pressure? The solution to your problems is at hand. Warped Sportz has a new line which basically looks like Micro-line on steroids. They’re calling it Macro-line.

Macro-line’s end-fittings and hose are both very similar to what you see with Micro-line. You trim the plastic hose to whatever length you like and install it by shoving the loose end into the fitting and giving it a quick tug to seat it in place. Under pressure, the hose is sealed and locked firmly into the fitting. To disconnect the tube, depressurize the line, shove the tube into the fitting, hold the outside edge of the fitting back, and pull the hose out. It’s all quite simple.

The key difference comes in the size of the hose, which is just about double that of Micro-line both in inner diameter and wall thickness. The doubled inner diameter means that it can convey sixteen times the flow of Micro-line – finally usable by the low pressure, high volume crowd.. The thicker walls mean a much higher 500 psi operating pressure (2000 psi burst).

The standard Macro-line kit comes with two fittings (one straight, one ninety degree) and 12" of hose. The hose is available in a variety of colors (blue, red, yellow, green, black) and can be purchased separately if you need greater lengths, new colors, or a replacement.

Angel Charger Wall Adapter

The guys at WDP really are sharp, there’s no question about it. Making the Angel charger run off of a car cigarette lighter showed exceptional foresight. When you’re at the field, often your only source of electricity is your car battery. All the Angel owners I know just charge their ’guns up on the way to the field, and I’ve known a few who hadn’t, but were saved by the ability to charge at the field in their cars.

That said, not everyone wants to depend on their cars for a charge. Wouldn’t it be nice to have the option of charging your ’gun up at home before ever leaving for the field? Well now that option is open to you. Warped Sportz is selling an AC adapter for the Angel charger. It’s a simple converting unit that plugs into your wall socket and has a cigarette lighter plug in it’s front. Just snap in your Angel charger and you’re up and charging in your home.

I’ve been using this unit myself for a while now and I LOVE it. It really isn’t crucial to have, but those of you who are as compulsive as me will love having it around for a quick charge-up the night before a big game or tournament.

No VL-Bow? No Problem!

VL’s VL-Bow elbow was heralded and loved by non-center-feed players everywhere. It finally did away with the need for a screwdriver to properly install and remove a good feed-tube elbow by replacing the nuts with finger-adjustable knobs. Sadly, the VL-Bow died a quiet death with the purchase of Viewloader by Brass Eagle, the VL-bow (as well as the gem-series clear hoppers) being among the products that went straight from popular production straight to the chopping block.

So you never got a VL-Bow, but you’re dying for the ease of use and reliability? I have good news for you. There is a product which has actually been in quiet production since well before the introduction of the VL-Bow which provides the same convenience and functionality to the very popular Armson elbows. This product is the G-Force T-handle.

The T-handle replaces the stock screw and nut that clamps the Armson elbow down. The screw replacement is a stainless steel Phillips-head screw with a square nut threaded all the way on and is fixed in place. The nut replacement is a tapped cylinder (available in stainless steel or brass) with a small rod through its top that acts as a handle. Just install it in place of the stock parts and your Armson elbow can be attached and removed without tools.

LAPCO Barrels

LAPCO barrels have to be the single best kept secret in paintball. Unless you’re on the internet (where they’ve just about achieved cult-favorite status) you probably didn’t even know that LAPCO made barrels.

Way back in the pump-gun days, LAPCO was best known for their custom Grey Ghost and Silver Spirit paintguns. When semi-autos came into mainstream popularity, LAPCO dabbled with an autococking variant of the Spirit that he called the "Autosprit." In a clever move, Colin Thompson fitted the Autospirit with Autococker barrel threads so it would have a large, established base of available barrels. The ’gun came with a 0.686" ID barrel of his own design, the descendant of which you see here.

Though the Autospirit paintgun never achieved widespread popularity, the barrel did. Many players who took the Autospirit’s barrel to try it on their Autocockers were taken with it’s superb performance. In those days, barrel ID was a factor that most players never gave much thought. Most barrels had a relatively large bore. Some of the most popular brands weren’t even terribly consistent in that, their IDs varying significantly from barrel to barrel. The 0.686" Autospirit barrel was a revelation. It’s tight bore and slick, consistent finish provided better efficiency and consistency with the smaller paint that predominated at the time.

LAPCO’s barrels have gone through many cosmetic changes since those days, but the basic barrel design remains the same and bucks many of the popular trends found in barrels from most manufacturers today. You will not find porting over huge lengths of barrel. No two stage barrels. No ceramic. No "teflon-impregnated" coatings. Colin Thompson doesn’t follow the latest fad. He’s stuck with the features that have made his barrels successful all along.

LAPCO barrels are available in 12" lengths (that’s it!) and have consistent IDs down their entire lengths. Forty eight tightly spaced holes cluster near the end of the barrel to vent excess pressure just before the ball is released. Clustering the ports at the very end of the barrel makes for a very efficient, but also very loud barrel. The very end of the barrel has a large, stepped out "laminar flow chamber" which Colin claims helps stabilize the ball in flight just as it exits.

Currently, LAPCO barrels are available in two flavors: Autospirit and BigShot. The Autospirit barrel is the original 0.686" barrel recommended for use with small, high-quality paints. LAPCO created the BigShot with a 0.689" ID for larger paints and cheaper field-paint which may be more likely to break in a tight-bore barrel. Both barrels are available in both aluminum and stainless steel, though both materials shoot exactly the same. Perhaps best of all, LAPCO barrels are extremely affordable. Aluminum barrels run $60 to $70 with the stainless variants costing $10 to $20 more.

LAPCO Thumb adjusters

Thumb adjusters. Everyone makes ’em. So does LAPCO.

The LAPCO adjusters are particularly nice examples of the breed, though. Made both for the Automag and Uni-Reg series of Air America pressure regulators, these adjusters feature all-stainless steel construction, a knurled knob end for good grip, a pair of steel locking screws, and the appropriate vent hole in the back. The quality of construction is evident at a glance, and LAPCO’s fanatical attention to detail will ensure that they’ll fit and work perfectly every time. And here’s the best part; as with all LAPCO products, the top quality stainless construction comes at a dirt-cheap price!

HSI First Aid Kits

Ever find yourself out early for the day because you blew an o-ring and don’t have the appropriate replacement? With a First Aid Kit, that doesn’t every have to happen again.

HSI has released a series of First Aid Kits for a variety of paintguns and nitrogen systems containing all the o-rings, seals, and seats that could possibly go bad so you can get your paintgun back up and running before the next game starts. In some cases they even include parts that one wouldn’t really expect to go bad (how often does the Tippman Carbine blow out it’s entire front bolt?).

These kits really are nice, but just how much value they provide will depend on the kit in question. Automag users will definitely find the ’mag kit to be a great value at only $9.95 given the many atypical o-rings and how quickly the Automag can chew them up. The VM-68 kit, on the other hand, runs $24.95, most of that due to the included cup seal – a part that doesn’t often go bad. Furthermore, you can find most VM o-rings at your local hardware store for much less. It’s nice that the more expensive kits provide added security by including every possible replacement part, but many will wish for a less expensive kit with just the high-wear o-rings.

First Aid Kits are currently available for the following products: Illustrator, Pro-Lite, Carbine, Model-98, Automag, Automag RT, VM-68, Spyder, Stingray, Brass Eagle Raptor, Autococker, Air America Raptor, Air America Apocalypse.

Smart Parts Drop-forward

The trend in tournament play today is definitely towards a more compact paintgun with an on-gun nitrogen system. Players often like to be able to get their faces snuggled right up near the back end of their paintguns. The large tanks of most nitrogen systems with their standard on-gun mounts stick way off the back, though. For many, the standard small drop-forward just doesn’t cut the mustard.

Enter the Smart Parts drop-forward. With this long boom you can shift a monster 114 ci nitrogen tank forward to the same position a 68 ci tank normally takes up. Mount a 68 ci tank on it and you can snuggle right in against the back of your paintgun. I’ve had great luck mounting the relatively large 68 ci Max-Flow nitro system on it on both an Autococker and a Dark Angel. The final tank position is very good and ’gun balance is superb.

Smart Parts Universal Gadget Grip

Smart Parts has finally released a gas-through version of the Gadget grip that will fit any paintgun with a vertical ASA. It has one entry hole near the top of the grip. To position the hole where you want, you screw it in to the position you want and fix it in place with a nut you cinch up against the ASA just like their gas-through stock. The grip itself is contoured like the Gadget grips made for the Shocker and Automag and has a barrel plug concealed in it’s bottom-end.

I like a lot of things about this grip, from the comfortable contour to the included barrel plug. It is both stylish looking and comfortable to use. Having the inlet near the top of the grip allows you to cradle the grip in the palm of your hand comfortably. I only wish they’d included another one or two inlet holes around the top of the grip to make it easier to position your hose where you want it. With just the one hole you are a bit limited since some positions may not allow the o-ring to seal properly.

KAPP Angel VL adapters

It’s all very simple. If you want to shoot an Angel, you will need a motorized loader. For most of us, that means using a Viewloader moto-loader like the Revolution. The stock Angel feed is a straight tube that does not fit the Revolution without a rather ugly plastic adapter that fits atop it. This adapter also raises the height of your hopper, making it a rather tall, conspicuous target.

It was quite natural that manufacturers would come to market with low profile feed tubes that flared at the top to take a VL loader without needing an adapter, and which sat nice and low to make you as small a target as possible. KAPP is just one of many companies to provide these groovy low profile tubes, though I think their smooth curves make them a bit better looking than some of the competition.

The problem with these low profile center feeds is that you don’t get much paint stacked up between the hopper and the breech. With rapid fire you can easily outrun your hopper and end up missing shots or, worse yet, chopping paint. For many people this is unacceptable and they were forced to stick with the ugly stock adapter to get a good stack of paint for rapid fire.

No longer is this a problem. KAPP has now come out with a high-profile replacement center feed tube, much like the low profile version, but the same height as the stock feed with plastic adapter! These are so cool, I immediately put one on my ’gun. Same good looks as the low profile tube without the ball chopping problems.

KAPP offers their low and high profile Angel feed adapters in most of the popular custom Angel colors, including black, blue, red, clear, and chrome.

KAPP Angel Fury Chambers

It seems like low pressure chambers that screw into the front of the ’gun are all the rage on every paintgun these days. Irrational as it seems, the Angel is no different. I call it irrational because these chambers don’t really do much on the Angel at all. Never the less, people buy them. And if there are people who will spend money on something, there are other people who will make it.

Chris at KAPP is just one of those people. He’ll freely tell you that these chambers do almost absolutely nothing for the Angel’s performance, and sell it to you with a smile when you insist on having one anyhow. They do look cool and hold enough air to cycle the ’gun (though not fire it ) 3 or 4 times after it’s been degassed, but that’s about it. KAPP’s Angel Fury chambers are a bit bigger and longer than most competitors, have nifty annular grooves down the entire length, and come in the same cool colors as KAPP’s VL adapters so you can have all matching accessories.

All material at this site is © Ravi Chopra, 1999