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    #16
    Mmm I'd love for you to make a Tippmann A5/Prolite compatible freak back that would fit in the Prolite front grip......

    Comment


    • Myrkul

      Myrkul

      commented
      Editing a comment
      For the Pro-Lite & Pro-Carbine, you can just disassemble the front grip, throw a sanding drum on a dremal, and sand/melt away the ridges on the inside that restrict the clearance. Then just reassemble the shroud over the freak back. I've done it several times and it's really easy, works perfectly, and holds up great. Still let's you use the slide forward function too with no issues.

      Still trying to figure out how to make the 68-carbine shroud work though....

    • LudovicoSoldier
      LudovicoSoldier commented
      Editing a comment
      I have several Pro/Minilites and would prefer to leave them stock, which is why I'd love a compatible freak back.

    #17
    Curious on the blazer backs.
    Do these have a stepped area for the bolt to enter into the barrel? Do the inserts go in from the front to accommodate this? Just curious on the construction.
    Need Inception Designs or Shocktech Products? Let me know!

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    Comment


      #18
      The Blazer barrel backs up against a step in the body, which solidly retains the insert just like in a 'Cocker or Shocker. I don't think the bolt actually enters the barrel, but even if it does, the insert can't go anywhere.

      Doc.
      Doc's Machine & Airsmith Services: Creating the Strange and Wonderful since 1998!
      The Whiteboard: Daily, occasionally paintball-related webcomic mayhem!
      Paintball in the Movies!

      Comment


        #19
        I can confirm that both the 1k and 2k Blazer/Pyre bolts enter the barrel by a pretty good bit. I have a Freak back for my Blazers (turned down SS Angel back), and the bolt on the 2k gets stuck in a .687 insert (I've not tried smaller inserts for obvious reasons).


        Edit: Just checked with my Pyre, the bolt enters the barrel by 0.25". The Pyre is based on the 2k, so it should be the same. No idea on the 1k, as I don't feel like dragging that out to check (actually, I'm not 100% sure where it is).
        I can haz feedback?
        If I owe you feedback, just remind me, as I sometimes forget.

        Comment


        • Hellion360

          Hellion360

          commented
          Editing a comment
          1K on mine enters the barrel .375"
          Bolt diameter measures out at .685 on the dot.Though my 1k might have an aftermarket bolt on it.

        #20
        Interested in a Blazer and an ICD back, but waiting to hear about the issue with the Blazer bolt.

        Comment


          #21
          Originally posted by Jackson View Post
          Interested in a Blazer and an ICD back, but waiting to hear about the issue with the Blazer bolt.
          -It's been a while since I had a Blazer in the shop, but I'll take these fellows word for it.

          Regardless, the insert is positively retained against a solid 'step' inside the breech, so no worries about it shifting around.

          If you want to use a smaller bore insert than .686" or so, we'd want to shave that short section of the bolt nose down slightly. Just .008" or so would let you use .679" inserts pretty safely, and .012" would let you use . 675" with a bit to spare.

          Doc.
          Doc's Machine & Airsmith Services: Creating the Strange and Wonderful since 1998!
          The Whiteboard: Daily, occasionally paintball-related webcomic mayhem!
          Paintball in the Movies!

          Comment


          • Jackson

            Jackson

            commented
            Editing a comment
            I'll have to ponder it for a little longer then. I was getting rollouts with my .690 barrel with wedgits. I was wanting to use my small .675 or .680 inserts. I'm not hot on modifying my bolt. F small paint.

          #22
          DocsMachine pmd

          Comment


            #23
            PM replied to!

            And, I'd like to formally announce that I am officially an idiot.

            I made a few backs for the Brass Eagle Raptor, assuming it would work the same as the F1 and other barrels over the years. Nope, turns out the upper bore and bolt diameter is larger than the insert!

            (Which, as a total aside, is f**king stupid, since that basically guarantees the bolt will hit and possibly crack the second ball in the stack, since it can fall slightly into the breech.)

            If you're one of the only two that actually bought one, send it back in and I'll give you a refund.

            I can, I think, make a functional Raptor Freak back, but it's going to take some work, and will be more expensive. If you want one, we might have to do up a preorder for some and I'll make a handful.

            If not, I'll just toss these on the ever-growing stack of failed products.

            Doc.
            Doc's Machine & Airsmith Services: Creating the Strange and Wonderful since 1998!
            The Whiteboard: Daily, occasionally paintball-related webcomic mayhem!
            Paintball in the Movies!

            Comment


            • DocsMachine

              DocsMachine

              commented
              Editing a comment
              Two edits: One, it's worth pointing out the Raptor barrels do still work just fine in the F1 Illustrator.

              And two, latest report is that since the Raptor bolt does not actually enter the barrel, the one O-ring retaining the insert should hold it in place just fine.

              If you want to keep the back and use it- and it sounds like it's usable- feel free, of course. But the offer of a return and refund stands.

              Doc.

            • James_Blond

              James_Blond

              commented
              Editing a comment
              A failed raptor freak back is only a couple slight modifications away from a sterling freak back. IRRC about an 1/8 off at the shoulder and remove a couple threads to allow full threading into the sterling body.

            • wthomas333

              wthomas333

              commented
              Editing a comment
              I was waiting to comment until I had a chance to test the one you sent me. I went out this afternoon and shot maybe 50 balls through it. It worked just fine and it looks great. The bolt does stop just short of entering the barrel, so it wouldn’t grab the insert and pull it back. It would probably take a pretty severe jarring of the gun to make the insert move out of the barrel. You and the gun would probably be hurt in other ways if you hit it hard enough to do that.
              Obviously there is an off chance that the insert could back into the breech of the gun, but even the single oring, as long as it’s present and in good condition, holds it pretty firmly in place. I even tried taking the barrel off holding it at the tip and swinging it back and forth to see if the insert would fly out. It didn’t budge. So yeah, a small lip preventing the insert from coming out the back of the barrel would be the 100% no chance fix, but as of right now, it’s probably 99%. If there is room to maybe make a groove for a second oring, that would also make it nearly impossible for the insert to slide out on its own.

            #24
            I’ll take the tippmann SL 68 II barrel!

            Comment


              #25
              Thanks 3Toms! That makes me feel marginally less stupid.

              It's worth noting that I came up with a way to make retained-insert Freaks earlier this year, and am hoping to make a sample run of parts before the end of the year.

              I should be able to do positively-retained Raptors, the only drawback being that these will necessarily cost a touch more.

              I want to do a good fistful of 'Cocker-threaded ones for Rangers, and I'm strongly considering making three or four BE Cobra barrels too, just to say I could.

              I’ll take the tippmann SL 68 II barrel!
              -Somebody in that other thread made an adapter of some sort for an SL, you can give that a shot. But generally speaking, the pump, breech and general geometry of the SL largely precludes any sort of easy Freakery.

              Doc.
              Doc's Machine & Airsmith Services: Creating the Strange and Wonderful since 1998!
              The Whiteboard: Daily, occasionally paintball-related webcomic mayhem!
              Paintball in the Movies!

              Comment


              • Jackson

                Jackson

                commented
                Editing a comment
                Make a Blazer back like that with enough clearance so the bolt doesn't enter the insert so it can use any size insert, and I will buy one.

              #26
              Did you ever make a Sterling back? If not, would it be possible?
              I can shoot you over some dimensions using calipers if needed.


              Last edited by SETHZILLA!; 11-28-2023, 03:23 AM.
              "What could go wrong?" - Sethzilla!

              Member of WORR BOYZ pump paintball team
              Playing since 1986: Stock, Pump, Mech, Electro, tourney, but now mostly rec.

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              Comment


              • DocsMachine

                DocsMachine

                commented
                Editing a comment
                One of the big issues with a Sterling is like the SL-68: The "knuckle" where the back meets the tip falls right under the pump grip.

                No big if you have a Ranger or Bushmaster that has a 1" bore pump handle, but a Phantom, Sterling or SL that takes a 7/8" barrel, it simply won't fit.

                You'd have to gin up an "undercocker" arrangment for any of them... Not impossible, of course, but will certainly cost more than just the price of a back.

                Doc.
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