Is this a possibility?

[~kaos~]

Basically I would like to have a 15* vasa for an ICD project I'm putting together.
Trying to find a Zeni is darn near impossible so I'm looking to other options....
Does anyone have the tools and talent (and time) to turn these blanks into
15* vasa that will work on a B2K/Defiant? The HPR threads are already cut.

[Ecapnation]

Might be easier to modified an impulse one they mount nearly the same

[superman]

Will an angled cocker vert asa work? not that familar with how they mount, but i do have a pile of angled cocker ones.

[~kaos~]

Will an angled cocker vert asa work? not that familar with how they mount, but i do have a pile of angled cocker ones.

Funny you should mention that..... I'm in the process of tryin to get that to work. The big issue is that Cockers attach to the body with a small screw as you can see on those you have. ICD, Tribal, Defiant & I guess Impulse use one large screw with a air passage hole drilled thru it.... I'll see if I can get something visual up

[~kaos~]

Heres the differences....

[superman]

That looks doable.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[~kaos~]

Well.... those are both 90* vasa. The 15* present a bit of a challenge especially trying to enlarge that center hole because it almost goes into the timing rod slot. Plus you have to take out enough of the inside to allow for the larger diameter allen head screw to drop below where the top of the hpr contacts inside

[Trbo323]

Super Nova

Sent from my motorola edge 5G UW (2021) using Tapatalk

[Super Nova]

Would be awesome to have a run made since the zeni are so hard to find.

[k_obeastly]

I've done straight ones but 15* is as you already know difficult. I think you'll have a hard time keeping those straight. The zenis had little ears or tabs that went into a milled out spot on the body to keep them facing forward.

[~kaos~]

I've done straight ones but 15* is as you already know difficult. I think you'll have a hard time keeping those straight. The zenis had little ears or tabs that went into a milled out spot on the body to keep them facing forward.

Well that could be handled a few different ways.... just off the top of my head what if I drilled a small hole in the tray behind the VASA and threaded it. Then mock -up the VASA where it's straight, get an awl and scratch a mark on the VASA by sticking the awl thru the small hole in the battery tray. Then drill a very shallow hole in the VASA. That way when I get the VASA in the correct position I just tighten the set screw thru the tray into the shallow hole in the VASA to lock it in place.....