Regarding my cut micromag frame..

[BrickHaus]

Hey MCB. I figured Id share this fun project before I complete it as I only get little 15 minute windows to mess with it. (My breaks) so it may be a week or so til I am happy with it.

So long story short I made a trade with FredMnkyDad10 that resulted in me getting a micromag body, and vasa. He tossed a cut micromag frame in as a bonus as because hes a cool cat like that.

I work with an impecable welder who said he could tig a guard on pretty easy if I prepped it. So I spent my breaks the last 2 days working at this little by little.

I have a crude monstrosity of a guard semi shaped, but I need to take a few edges down, and clean up my arcs. Then Ill hand it over to get welded, and hope I am saving a frame. The lastpic is where I had it at the end of the day yesterday.

I figured you guys may enjoy a little suspense.


So Should I leave all of that extra meat making the guard square? Or machine it down to thin? I kinda like the bulk as long as I can get the vasa on. Should complement the lines of the micro body well.



also, sorry for the hazy pics. My phone camera is still busted, and ive been too lazy to file my insurance claim.

[NONOBLITUS]

Cool , I’ve often wondered why this is not done more often. Are you going to mask of the rest of the frame and blend in some flat black as to not cover up Micromag with new ano ?

[BrickHaus]

Im not sure yet. All three parts are fairly beat up so I am open to any new finishing options. Ive been kicking the idea of cerakote ve re annoing vs just trying an anno pen on the guard itself, but I figured I cross thatbridge once I have it together. Id love to lightly polish the parts to the point you can still see the lasering, then acid wash anno to allow for the welds that dont take anno to hide easier.

I believe its not done often because aluminum welding can be tough, and once you blow it out, its scrapped. I wouldnt even be attempting this if I didnt witness the nice beads my co worker can lay.

[GanonsGrin]

Don’t forget to leave enough room for your trigger shoe also

[BrickHaus]

I dont have a shoe for a mag specifically,so I was gonna use a nummech trigger shoe. I need to pull my brass one and make sure itll work. So good tip!! Haha

[wthomas333]

I have a pile of tigger shoes I got with all the Armson pumps and Semis. I believe it is the same one that this frame would have had. I can compare mine when I get home. If they match, you can just send me your address and I’ll throw one in the mail.

[BrickHaus]

Wthomas that would be amazing! Though Ill have to wait for the shoe to arrive before I can keep working at this, but honestly for the reason of making it like stock Id really appreciate it. Thank you for offering.

[FredMnkyDad10]

Looking good. I am for one to leave it square with extra bulk. Just maybe more sanding to get rid of the tool marks.

What about doing raddle paint? I have seen some guys do amazing jobs with rustoleum on here.

[alpha_q_up]

I second leaving the guard square

[DocsMachine]

'Couple things to keep in mind:

One, you're going to have to strip the anno before it gets welded. Anodizing is an oxide, and will contaminate the weld. And, if you only strip around the immediate area, the heat of the welding will discolor it, generally turning it to a mud brown. You'll be ahead of the game by stripping the entire frame beforehand.

Two, if you re-anodize it afterward, the welding will be visible, no matter how smooth you grind and file it. If you ask your weldor to use 6061 as a filler rod rather than the usual 40 or 50 series rods, the effect will be reduced, but not eliminated.

Coatings like spray paint or Cerakote of course don't have this problem.

Doc.

[BrickHaus]

I figured the welds would be visable. Thats hy I wonder if an acid washed finish would be worth it as the welds being discolored may be easy ier to hide with other clear anno disrupting the attention itll take.

Thats also a reason Id just consider cerakote or rattle canning just the added guard and hoping it matches well enough.

In all reality, Ill likely rattle can the guard initially. Then if I love shooting a micromag as much as I like looking them, I may get it annod for real.

[JeeperCreeper]

What about a flat black anodizing?

[iamthelazerviking]

I vote for rounding it!

[Macdave06]

I'm gonna ride the middle of the road on the guard and say cut the square point off to a hex shape, like a dye single frame. What about bolting the guard on from the top rather than welding?

Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

[BrickHaus]

Okay. I had a few minutes free today to finalize this. Cleaned up the machining, and took a tiny bit of anno off the frame for weld tits.

Welder asked me to bevel the edges so he can weld the inner edge from my bevels, then work out. so after getting ir all square and perfect. I had to notch my edges anyways. Lol.

Im gonna take my chances on discoloring the anno. If I can get away with it, I want to anno pen, or rattle can the guard to start. Worst case scenario, I have to sand blast the frame to reanno anyways. At that point im going to lose all of the lettering regardless, so I hope this looks good enough with some flat black paint.

He should lay the beads in the morning. Fingers crossed!!!!

[BrickHaus]

Well, we finally had the time to hit her with a little heat. Unfortunatly all we have is 4 series rod at work, so it isnt gonna anno well if I try. It's also far from perfect, but Im honestly not after a show gun here. Just wanted to make it functional, and look nice enough. Id like to fill the inside in, but i dont its worth the chance of blowing the welds apart, plus nailing the welder down for another 15 minutes is proving harder than expected.

Now Im not sure if Ill paint, or use something like an anno pen, but I just need it less raw. Lol.

Hope yall approve.

[NONOBLITUS]

That’s awesome ! If you want to put a little body filler in that crack sand it , tape off the rest of the frame prime and rattle can that spot. Or leave it. It’s really cool you did this.

[maggot]

That's great! Honestly, I love it - the squared off front makes it really unique.
I don't know if you ended up with a shoe or not, but I also have a bag of the shoes for these. They're untapped IIRC, so you'd just need to tap it for a set screw (simple b/c they're plastic). Just pay shipping if you want one.

[BrickHaus]

Wthomas33 sent me 2 triggers free of charge! They arrived today. I really appreciate both of you guys offering.

[Grendel]

I love that you are restoring a cut trigger frame. I always cringed when I saw these back when they were being done, I've never been a fan of these triggers.

You can anodize the trigger frame without removing all of the anodization and for material protection it is a good idea. You will not get matching anodized coating but it will be corrosion protective. Depending on how good your welder was and what he used in the welding process you may or may not get good coverage. What you will not get is a a hidden repair most likely. The anodizing process depends upon the surface being conductive which anodizing is not. So when you re-anodize you will only anodize that which is conductive (and clean). When I was still in manufacturing our machine shop would do this fairly often on repaired aluminum parts not for cosmetic purposes but for corrosion and wear resistance and if you looked you could always see where the repair was done and how well the machinist did.

[Super Nova]

Looks good, glad you took the time to restore a cut frame. I've wanted a ptp body even without a frame so bring one back to life. Got a pic of the whole thing together?

[BrickHaus]

Heres a quick mock up of parts. Not exactly what itll be when it hits the field.

[Chuck E Ducky]

That came out nice! I would Cerokote the entire thing.

[BrickHaus]

Can ya cerakote over annodizing? Or wpuld it need to be blasted?

[Chuck E Ducky]

that stuff sticks to anything