Making a poppet into mech

[ItsGerryRigged]

I have a DP Fusion FX that I want to make into a mech poppet.
I wanna do this project in hopes to bring back dead markers with similar design with dead boards. Mostly the penu ram forwards and spring return style as they seem to be the only ones I can think that this would work on, rather than an ego style ram controlled entirely by pneumatics.

So onto the marker of choice. I was looking into tapping the two holes under the body with autococker barbs then feeding them to a valve in the frame. One hole is air feed from reg and other goes to what would be the solenoid to ram. I would probably install an LPR to the valve, In the frame, to help control the airflow through the valve and make it adjustable. But I plan to make it easier to just be able to adjust the inline regulator.

But I'm having troubles trying to figure out what type of valve I would use. It would have to be like a pulse to allow the ram to go forward and return from the spring. This is the only thing holding me back from doing this project. I was thinking of like a airbag valve or something. If any one has an idea of what type of valve I should use or which direction I should go lemme know. I'm all ears, or uh eyes on this post. Thank you. I'll try and attach the animation of the marker.

[BrickHaus]

Peep this thread. He got a timmy to work as a mech, but it took a ton of components to achieve. The velocity is still effected by your trigger pull. Very cool mech none the less, and probably your best bet for a start.

[BrickHaus]

And sorry. I had just woke up, on my last post. I didnt really look at this. My mind almost goes to springing the valve to re close itself and simply use a smav 3. Im sure that wouldnt work as well as a some sort of pulse valve.

[Jordan]

It's cheaper and easier to just buy a universal board (cough cough Morlock cough) and install that.

[Alexndl]

Jordan have made many mech conversion and is very good with pneumatic, I agree with him Morlock board would be a better option.

The main issue with poppet mech is with the dwel.
You need to find a way to control the air going from the HPR to the dump chamber. Then you use a 4 way to either fill the dump chamber or activate the piston. The velocity migh vary a lot depending how you pull the trigger and be careful not to short stroke it.

What is the standard pressure of this gun?
Small pneumatic valve have limit for pressure they can take

[ItsGerryRigged]

I believe operating pressure is 250psi. And I didn't think about the amount of air to force the ram forward to open the valve. Good point. I figured with a certain trigger valve it'll at least be consistent hitting the poppet valve, and then would just adjust via an LPR adding into the grip or the HPR. Only reason I thought if it was because of an Old Diablo Wrath was operated in a similar way but used like a pneu clapper noid to open the air to run the ram forward.

[Alexndl]

Most of the clippard or fabco valve have an maximum operating pressure of 150psi
Common switch are:
Clippard valve SMAV-3, PAVO-3 and MAV-4
Clippard actuator MPA-3
Fabco MSV2

Working at higher pressure will either cause leak or will increase the force to activate them to a level that will make them not usable

[Rainmaker]

Can you use something similar to a cocker 3-way, and some kind of pressure reservoir to push the ram forward?

The 3-way could direct air from the LPR into the reservoir, then when the trigger is pulled out dumps the reservoir to the back of the ram. Just spit balling... probably won't work.

[Alexndl]

Big questoon is what is the required pressure to offset the spring tension. Also cocker 3 way doe not hold too much pressure amd become leaky/hard to activate at one point
In theory using a fix volume of air to controll the ram so the gas from the HPR could re-seal the poppet at one point could work to solve the dwel issue. Not sure how precise the volume of the reservoir and LPR pressure need to be to give constant velocity.

[grendal50]

You could also make the ram vent when it is fully open so the valve can close, making trigger dwell less important.

[devilzcall]

You're onto something, but I'd recommend a qev in place of the cocker valve and an smav-3 to control the inlet into the qev. I described a similar setup on the mech cocker thread

[2pipes2]

I will watching. Everything I have heard said it was incredible difficult.