Who can take the guts of an FL-3 way valve and machine a housing for the OG GMek?

[Siress]

Correct, and not yet. Need to determine if these 5 seals (not shown) and 5 parts are compatible with a block that works for the GMEK.

[JCC]

I am not that familiar with gmek, and only had an emek for a few months, but I like stuff like this so posting so I don’t forget to follow along. I know my initial thoughts would of been creating a manifold to use hose barbs/lp hoses on the valve then doing the same on the gmek body. Figure out how to connect the hoses and mount the valve in place. Saying it doesn’t make it work though.
A small block of aluminum on each side of the valve drilled and tapped for a 10/32 hose barb, then enough extra material sticking out past the valve on that aluminum block that you can have a few holes drilled to put a bolt along side both sides of the valve connecting those aluminum blocks on both sides. Tighten nut on each side to clamp the two blocks together with the valve in the middle so it seals up nice and you have the eclipse style valve with lp hose connections. Then just need the marker to accepts lp hose connections and a way to make it all fit. Would probably work great in a pneucocker.

[Lotus]

Just wanted to check in and see if there have been any updates

[Siress]

Not yet. I need to measure and model the GMEK frame opening around the valve as a constraint.

IGES Files are here if anyone else wants to take a crack it: http://gofile.me/2zkFu/nudR2eVOi

[superman]

This one seems like a tough one. The FL valve has a qev and gets it's air from the top. the gmek doesn't have a qev and gets its air from the bottom.

I wonder if making one with a smaller 3way shaft would be a better option. won't be as light, but would probably be better.

[Lotus]

Making the 3-way smaller without a QEV would worry me. This isn't a pilot actuated valve and I have no idea what the change in flow rate of the valve would do. Testing all of this also sounds like more of a problem.

Then again, I don't really know enough to tell if this is a reasonable concern.

[Lotus]

Hey Siress, any progress? Is it just not workable with the necessary dimensions/pathways for the gmek?

[joshs]

Have you tried the Liquid Bang Switch as an alternative? I don't have any experience with it, but I've seen reports that it moves the valve actuation forward in the pull. This allows the pull to be made shorter with the stock adjustment screw. It supposedly also makes the pull lighter (not HAIR light, but it looks like quite a bit lighter than stock). https://youtu.be/qNGkuqPnaqw?t=162

[Brokeass_baller]

joshs I had the Bang Switch in my old gmek. It noticably lightened the pull weight, but was still nowhere as nice as the FL is in an Emek.

[Siress]

Not yet. All of the parts are still out on my workbench, though. Looking forward to getting back to it when I can.

[lhamilton1807]

Checking in on this. Looks like a sweet project. Any updates?

[Siress]

Nothing from me. All of the parts are still out on my workbench. Enough has gone on around the vicinity that I just hope I haven't lost anything that'll prevent me from putting my GMEK back together

[Brokeass_baller]

I still prefer my Gmek. Despite the Bang Switch, I still hope for progress with this mod.

[Lotus]

Same. I'm still using my GMek and I love it.

[rawbutter]

I don't want to steal anyone's thunder, but there's another issue I should tell you all about, and that's the slider mechanism in the Gmek frame.

Not sure how I missed this thread when it started, because I actually did a similar project over the summer to lighten the trigger of my Gmek, although I went a different route. Rather than mod a better 3-way valve, I tapped into the Gmek 3-way and rerouted some of the input air through an LPR and to a pneumatic solenoid valve. So, I basically made a pneumag frame, but for the Gmek.

I'll attach some pictures below, and here's a video of the trigger. The actually trigger pull could be probably at least 50% shorter, but I had to leave some slop in there for the safety.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Wiiorb6a9F1UyKyMA

I was mostly happy with the results, but one thing puzzled me for a while. The trigger on the pneumek (as I call it) still wasn't as light as the trigger on my pneumags, even though I was using the same components. At first I thought it was simply a matter of leverage, since the pneumek has a single trigger and most of my pneumags have double triggers. Then at Christmas time I bought a single-trigger M170R with a hAir valve installed, which is great. It's a longer pull, but definitely lighter. And that confirmed to me that something was up with the pneumag trigger.

I fiddled around with it some more, and eventually I realized that the problem was the slider frame. The slide inside the frame is well made and the brass bushings make it very smooth, but it has a LOT more mass than a regular trigger, and that requires a stronger spring to reset it. That's why the pneumek trigger isn't as soft as the hAir or any of my pneumag triggers. I did try changing the return spring, but the weaker springs I tried were either too slow or unreliable.

Don't get me wrong. It is better. But I have a feeling that you all are going to run into the same issue. Even if you figure out how to replace the Gmek 3-Way with an FL valve or a hAir, the trigger still won't be as light as it could be because of that strong return spring. To fix that problem, you will also need to do something else. You might need to design a replacement slide that's made from something lighter (3D printed Delrin, perhaps?) or take out the slide altogether and replace it with a pivoting trigger.

[lhamilton1807]

Wow, thanks for your input. This forum never ceases to amaze me with creative solutions.

[Brokeass_baller]

I'm not really interested in a hAir-light trigger pull. But something I little lighter would be nice. My stock switch rod got me a pretty consistent 1lb pull weight, which is not a bad trigger pull at all. But the Bang Switch took it down to about 9-10oz. So a quarter of the weight dropped.

I'm thinking something in the 6-7 ballpark would feel really nice, and hopefully be able to kick the plate back a little bit for a quick trigger reset like the stock and Bang Switch do.

[Lotus]

For me, it's more achieving feature parity even if the end result isn't as great. I like the slider too much, and I'll take what improvements I can get. I also want something a bit more straightforward than a pnuemag-like conversation and stick to off-the-shelf seals. Part of the allure of the FL valve is using replaceable PE seals.

[MrBarraclough]

Slightly hijacking, but this seems like an opportune thread in which to pose a question that has been puzzling me: Why no FL 3-way for the M170R? I understand why there isn't one for the original GMEK. But why not make a version for the M170R when its stock valve is so similar to the EMEK's? It strikes me as odd to allow the cheaper siblings in the Gamma Core lineup to have a better mech valve than the 170R.

Should we be reading something into this odd omission? Maybe a sign that there's a next generation replacement for the M170R in the works that will likely use the FL 3-way?

[lhamilton1807]

DW hAir 45 is an option

https://www.deadlywind.com/hair-45-trigger-valve