Need 3D Printing: Pro-lite/ProAM/Carbine Shroud/Foregrip/Elbow

[Myrkul]

Hi guys,

I've acquired an A-5 threaded freak back, and unfortunately it's too large to fit under the foregrip/shroud of either my Pro-lite or my 68-Carbine.

Would someone here be able to print a stockish looking foregrip and elbow that will allow for larger barrel ODs?

Just let me know!

Thank you

[Meleager7]

Could you mod a pro lite shroud, maybe with something like this, although i’m not sure what size you’d need?

https://www.amazon.ca/Large-Steel-Step-Drill-Titanium/dp/B01D9NG6X4/ref=asc_df_B01D9NG6X4/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=578814016548&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11371888687617424076&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9000837&hvtargid=pla-1059334528486&psc=1

[Myrkul]

Maybe? I looked at maybe just drilling it out, but that 25 year old plastic would get crazy thin in a few places and I don't think it would last long term... Especially with the abuse tippmanns are typically at the receiving end of.

[XEMON]

The feedneck is gonna be thought 3d printed ...
what about making an aluminum feedneck and run it without foregrup?

[Myrkul]

That'll work fine on my carbine, I will need to come up with something for the pro-lite though.

[Ecapnation]

Prolite for grips are hollow.... Should only need to open up the front lip abd your fine

Not much either 1/16 around

[Rainmaker]

I made this thing awhile back:

https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/paintball-news-aa/the-armory/tippmann/86018-why-just-why

[Rainmaker]

I haven't been, but I could... I'm currently still unpacking at a new house though. Also, i did modify the CAD to make it fit a standard 45deg elbow, but haven't printed it out yet, or field tested it for that matter. It would potentially be kinda brittle, especially now that the weather is colder. At some point I'll get around to printing another one and trying it out. The one in the pics on that thread is now owned by Jonnydread i think? Jonny - did you try playing with this thing?

[Jonnydread]

Rainmaker I sure did and it worked great, very solid. The only issues I ever had with it were related to the Empire spring feed, the printed parts were spot on. Worth noting I have played with it in the New England winter season and aside from massive clouds of CO2 everything held up.

[Myrkul]

I'd pay for two or three with a 45 elbow in a heart beat! I'll gladly volunteer to field test them as well. We just got snow here in KS this morning, so I'm stuck playing inside the caves at jaegers until spring. Tippmann's really shine in the caves, since A) Fancy Annos and limestone walls are not an ideal situation and B) No batteries in the caves, including in your hopper. Tippmanns kick enough to still feed well with gravity loaders. I'd put them through rigorous testing immediately.

[Rainmaker]

Thanks for the input, Jonny!
Myrk - i'll let you know when I've got things back in order. Speaking of Jaegers - i've played there twice now, great place! First time i ever shot a phantom was there!

[Rainmaker]

oops, i meant that to be a comment, not a post

[Myrkul]

Awesome! I will be eagerly awaiting your message!

Jaegers is a great place, and it's supposed to be getting a lot better too! It's been my home field since 2018. They are gearing up to redo all the lighting this winter to improve visibility in the caves which is going to make cave ball a LOT better.

[OpusX]

...and you better PM some of us next time you're here ;-)

[procarbie]

Not to take away from all the 3D printing stuff (because that does sound dope and I could possibly be down to purchase something like that too) but I’ve got an old pro/carbine foregrip that someone pulled the back retention pin halfway out of for whatever reason (maybe trying to do the same thing you are), but is otherwise fine. No cracks that I can see and it still feels nice and solid. I figure in the pulled-apart state it’s in it would prob be stupid easy for you to just sand out the the inside and then put it back together (it’s missing all the screws but those are easily sourced). I think the plastic would likely be fine if it’s not a huge amount of material you’re removing, but if you were still concerned you could: 1. add some thin sheet metal or something else to it to beef it up, 2. only sand out the back and leave the front as-is (then you just have to first thread the barrel onto the marker and then slip the shroud on over it and secure with the locking bolt), or 3. maybe even devise some sort of middle spacer between the two halves to widen the whole thing (would probably be pretty hard to do right and may just create other issues so maybe not the best plan).

If you’re interested in owning this item, then crunching all the numbers and taking in all the variables at play here, I’ve determined that I would be prepared to part with it for the price of.....hmm....zero dollars (if you pay shipping).


Just lmk if you want it