P1S with AMS.
What 3D printers are we all using?
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I guess I'll be weird with a prusa core one. It prints ASA in my office without stink very easily. I'm thinking about getting an INDX kit for it.
I gave my prusa mk3 to my son. I still have his old maker farm which prints soft tpu just fine.
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I have an old Monoprice Maker Select v2 (a clone of the Wanhao Duplicator i3, which I think was a clone of the Prusa MK3…).
I’ve upgraded it about as far as it’ll go - new bearings, all-metal hot end, touch sensor for automatic bed leveling, BigTreeTech 32bit main board and touchscreen running Marlin 2.x, enclosure, air filter (still need to get that working correctly…) and new fans all around. It’s crazy slow compared to nicer CoreXY printers but it’s tuned nicely and prints quite well.
I’ll upgrade when the options for an affordable multi tool (or multi nozzle) printer in an enclosure becomes a viable option. With the U1 and soon the FF Creator 5 Pro, it should happen in the next year or so. I’d love to do multicolor printing but I’m unwilling to accept all the waste of single nozzle multicolor printers.Originally posted by Chuck E Ducky:
“You don’t need a safety keep your booger hook on the bang switch.“
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As I upgraded my 2014 maker farm 10, I found a lot of it was just inadequate in the original design. Like you say it works great just slow. I leave a roll of ninjaflex 85 on mine. Since soft tpu likes slow speeds anyway, I keep wondering if that old printer will always have a job.
If I can get my core one upgraded to print soft filament, I might want the desk space. On the other hand, it would be nice to have double printers for the process that takes twice (or more) the time.
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On a Bambu A1 myself. Absolutely love it! Has been the most consistent, set & forget experience thus far of the printers I've used. Curious about eventually getting a AMS lite for it.Comment
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I'm designing and printing the last components to take my almost stock Ender 3 Pro to its "Mark 2" form:
Ikea (Slack) Lack Enclosure (Insulated, with a Chitu Mini Heater)
Raspberry Pi 4 Model B (4GB) Running Klipper and, a Bigtreetech 5inch Pi Touchscreen, with a logitech USB Camera
MCU: TH3D EZBoard V2
PSU: Meanwell 350W 24V (with Noctua Fan and cover printed in self-extinguishing PETG-V0) with 2 Buck Convertors (12V and 5v), TH3D High MOSFET (for Hotend)
Frame & Kinematics: Ender 3 Pro Frame with:- BLV All-Metal Full MGN Rail Conversion
- Gulfcoast Robotics Dual MGN Rail Carriage (BLV design was a single rail)
- Gulfcoast Robotics Cast Aluminum Bed (235x235) with:
- Gulfcoast Robotics 110V 500W Silicone Bed Heater (TH3D SSR, and 15A Thermal Fuse Switch)
- A variety of Print Surfaces:
- Creality Borosilicate Glass Bed
- Whambam Magnetic PEX
- Mamorubot Polypropylene
- Biqu Cryoplate
- Custom (SendCutSend) Aluminum X-Axis Carriage
- Metal X&Y Axis Belt Tensioners
- Z-Axis Braces
- Stock NEMA motors for X and Y
- Dual Z Axis Motors and Screws
- Th3D Oldham Couplers and, Anti-Backlash nuts
- VZBot Water blocks for all Steppers
- E3D Titan Aqua (water cooled, direct drive and compact high torque motor) with:
- E3D 65W Heater Cartridge
- E3D Plated Copper (nickle plated) V6 Heater Block
- E3D PT100 Thermistor
- Variety of Print Nozzles to include:
- E3D Plated Copper
- E3D Nozzle X
- E3D Plated Copper
- Variety of Print Nozzles to include:
- Berd-Air Part Cooling Systen
- Th3D EZABL Pro
- Custom enclosure air scrubber (keeps air in the chamber)
- Air-Air Intercooler for Berd Air Pump
- Custom MCU and Electronics Enclosure printed in PETG-V0
- Custom Thermal Fuse Switch Box (for heated bed) printed in PETG-V0
- SmartMicro Fire Prevention Sensor Electrical Cutoff (kills power to the enter rig if fire is detected)
Design Intent: Print high Temp Materials quietly without significant particle and fumes in the house.
Coming next: Dual E3D Titan Aquas in IDEX (already have some components for this)Originally posted by Tom Kaye, in response to FS price critics:
Unfortunately all of you have played the one "speedball" game of paintball for so long you can't conceive of other ways to do this and hence any new ideas seem stupid.
External Ballistics | Rifled VS Smoothbore FS Barrels | My FeedbackComment
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