New to Cockers & Snipers - Please Help with Issues

[Dirklax39]

1. Both my snipers (Mozak/CCM & Empire Sniper) are sweet spotted and got to about 240fps with the IVG backed all the way (or almost all the way) out.

- A. When I screw the IVG in the FPS only bumps up 10-20.

- B. I cant get either sniper above 265fps.


What do you think my issue is?




2. I just changed my another empire sniper's internals from stock to the parts list below and I can not get the gun to cycle enough to even get a ball out of the breach. Sometimes it wont even actually fire any air at all. I know how to time a sniper, but since I'm starting from scratch and there are so many variables (new springs, trigger timing, rebuilt inline reg, etc...) I don't know where to start.

1. Mamba Trigger (stock sear)

2. SLPS Spring Kit

3. Shocktech Phat Rat Valve

4. Inception Hammer with Shocktech Coned Lug

5. Rebuilt the Stock Inline Reg


Is anyone confident they know a good starting point for me to diagnose and fix the issue?

[superman]

Sweet spotting the reg is adjusting the pressure to what the spring tension is set to.
So if you move the ivg after the sweetspot should change as well.

It sounds like your main spring is too soft.

[Dirklax39]

So are you saying I need to set the IVG -> Sweet Spot the Reg and if the max FPS isn't high enough then adjust the IVG and Re-Sweet Spot the reg and it should be higher than it was before?

On the sniper I will try a harder main spring. Thanks!

[superman]

Generally if the ivg 2 turns in and you run the reg up to where it would be sweet spotted and it is still low you need a stronger main spring.

[Ego10Baller]

If it helps to simplify things a bit - ive owned a lot of autococker pumps of all different styles and ive always found if I set the vertical reg to 300 - 310 psi then I can reliably go to the chrono and when adjusted via the ivg (starting with the ivg fully back out / flush and adjusting in from there) to 280 fps (my local fields limit) i get +/- 4 fps with not great paint and +/- 2 fps with nice paint. Saved me a lot of time and paint at the chrono not doing the method where you adjust until it drops off and then back it up from there. Worked on my empire snipers, meteor pumps, and autococker pumps (CCM, ID, WGP). Maybe start with that? But, to be fair, I dont believe ive ever used a SLPS kit - always a standard kit so the above may not work for you.

If when you say it sometimes isn't firing at all (assuming you mean that the trigger isnt engaging properly) then I'd make sure that the hammer lug is adjusted properly / not sticking out too far and not recessed back too much. I start mine flush to the hammer when I put the lower tube back in but before putting it back in see how many turns with an Allen key will have it sticking out an ~8th of inch past flush on the lug. Then reset to flush, put in the lower tube, and do that many turns on the lug.

[Dirklax39]

#1 - Thanks for the tips! I don't have a reg tester yet, but would 300ish psi work regardless of the lower tube diameter, valve, and springs?

#2 - The hammer is firing forward when I pull the trigger, but barely any air goes to the ball. Just a weak and short puff of air. Not enough for the ball to release from the barrel.

[Ego10Baller]

Generally yes except for when you mention the spring. Since you are using a low pressure spring kit the springs (I believe) are lightened springs / not as heavy as a standard spring kit. So that could be effecting things - so same thing as Superman said above - could be too light of a main / hammer spring.

Sounds like your hammer lug is fine then.

Only other thing I can think of is make sure that your bolt is flipped the correct way in the upper tube. There is a hole on the bottom of it that needs to be facing down toward the lower tube, not up toward where your hopper would be. If this is flipped over then you will get that light puff of air that you mention. Try this before you pull the lower tube out.

If the issue persists for you, I'm in Houston and if you're ever in the area happy to meet you at a gas station or wherever real quick and swap in various hammer and valve spring combos (heavier hammer spring and lighter valve spring is always the order there) (I have way too many parts lying around from all my days of tinkering with autocockers) and see if that works. That said, if you aren't ever in the area it would definitely be cheaper to order a heavier main spring / hammer spring (CCM has fair shipping prices and both a valve and hammer spring available that you could try). https://store.chipleymachine.com/hammer-springs/ ; https://store.chipleymachine.com/valve-spring/

Or you can order the master spring set from Inception Designs and give those a shot (I'd say order just the valve and hammer spring sets but they end up being the same $20 price as the master spring kit so might as well get the extra spring sets). This might be your best way to go instead of CCM since you can get a lot more springs to try out for your hammer and valve combo vs just one spring for each from CCM

Once you swap out these springs that would likely fix your issue assuming the bolts aren't just flipped over. Disclaimer though - I'm not a pro on this stuff. Beardedworks / Superman up above is the autococker and automag guru so I defer to him.

[Trbo323]

It's the SLPS spring kit. The main spring is too soft. I had the exact problem on my sniper as well and had to go back to the stock spring to make velocity

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[Myrkul]

Just to echo everyone else, it's the main spring.

I absolutely love the valve springs in the SLPS kits, but I have never once been able to use the main spring in anything and hit velocity.

[iamthelazerviking]

Get CCM lowers. Put ivg 3 turns in. Set reg right at 300psi. Done. Adjust ivg as needed.

[Dirklax39]

It's the SLPS spring kit. The main spring is too soft. I had the exact problem on my sniper as well and had to go back to the stock spring to make velocity

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Noted! I'll try a stiffer main spring. Thanks.


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[Dirklax39]

Get CCM lowers. Put ivg 3 turns in. Set reg right at 300psi. Done. Adjust ivg as needed.

Complete CCM lower tube? Hammer, valve, and springs? That's great and sounds ideal... BUT I don't have those parts, they aren't in stock, and I don't have a reg tester or a working reg gauge. Hoping to understand the issue a bit more so I can solve it with springs and parts I currently have.

[Dirklax39]

If it helps to simplify things a bit - ive owned a lot of autococker pumps of all different styles and ive always found if I set the vertical reg to 300 - 310 psi then I can reliably go to the chrono and when adjusted via the ivg (starting with the ivg fully back out / flush and adjusting in from there) to 280 fps (my local fields limit) i get +/- 4 fps with not great paint and +/- 2 fps with nice paint. Saved me a lot of time and paint at the chrono not doing the method where you adjust until it drops off and then back it up from there. Worked on my empire snipers, meteor pumps, and autococker pumps (CCM, ID, WGP). Maybe start with that? But, to be fair, I dont believe ive ever used a SLPS kit - always a standard kit so the above may not work for you.

If when you say it sometimes isn't firing at all (assuming you mean that the trigger isnt engaging properly) then I'd make sure that the hammer lug is adjusted properly / not sticking out too far and not recessed back too much. I start mine flush to the hammer when I put the lower tube back in but before putting it back in see how many turns with an Allen key will have it sticking out an ~8th of inch past flush on the lug. Then reset to flush, put in the lower tube, and do that many turns on the lug.

Sounds like I need to get a reg tester! Or at least borrow one.


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[iamthelazerviking]

Reg testers are easy to make. Grab just about any ASA, get a liquid filled 1/8" NPT gauge, something up to 600-1k psi. You can buy pre-made testers as well from Inception, which is pricey, or one of these (have other colors too): https://adrenalinepaintballairsoft.c...si-gauge-green

CCM stocks lower tubes regularly and they pop up second hand as well. I stopped trying to Frankenstein other parts, all the thinking has been done with CCM and there's a reason its the gold standard.