Help with Bosch Dishwasher

[sniper97]

Hi! Any appliance repair people on MCB? I picked up a Bosch Silent Plus 50 dBA dishwasher on FB Market Place. On the water line going in, there is a solenoid, 2 light purple wires plug into it a white clip which plugs into the solenoid. On on installing it, I noticed the wires were pulled out of the clip. Is this an easy fix? How do I fix it? The dishwasher is only 18 months old, came from a great neighborhood in Ballwin, MO, they were switching to all matching appliances. Seller said if there was a problem, he would take care of it. From some videos, the solenoid is attached to the front of the dishwasher with a plate, this one does not have a plate, maybe Bosch on the low end leaves out the plate. Any help is appreciated! Thank you! The clip has a metal insert on only 1 half, the wire with the 2 slices thru it would not fit in it. Maybe the other end is supposed to slide into it? Hoping to not replace the full wire harness.

[sniper97]

Maybe the wire with the 2 cut marks is stuck in there sideways? Maybe the cut marks match up with the sides of the metal insert inside the clip. Really small pieces. Thanks!

[BrickHaus]

I bet its a Bosch branded connector. The cuts are from terminating. Its a through jacket connector. You basically just jam the wire in to terminate. And the contacts cut into the jacket.

From the bit of research Ive done, best I can tell, thats for the main water inlet valve solenoid?

Do you happen to have the actual model of the washer? Im kind of at a loss without utilizing the manual for your specific model.

In any case, look up ereplacementparts.com .T hat would be my go to. I've rebuilt a few things buying parts from them.


You may have to buy the whole wiring harness with those purple wires terminated, but the manual will tell us.

Lastly, being they probably don't offer that plug by itself, you may wanna shoot customer service an email and see if they can ship you one.

[XEMON]

Thé industrial name for them is "insulation displacement" 🤪

I would solder the end of the wire to the connector, put it in the plug and fill the back with hot glue ...

[Grendel]

Yup, I am with you here.

[Siress]

Thé industrial name for them is "insulation displacement" 🤪

Insulation displacement connector or contact (IDC)... 😉
Personally, I'd find a way to get another mechanical connection. Solder isn't reliable when vibration and stress are involved; the heat and possible humidity work against it too.


sniper97
so... someone's been futzing with this. In your second picture, the top wire needs to be pulled out and put into the backside of the metal IDC that's still in the plastic housing. Then, cut the the part of the wire that has compromised insulation off and insert the loose IDC back into the plastic housing. If you can find a way to anchor it to the housing, you're good to go. Otherwise, you need a replacement connector. For the replacement, just cut these wires off as close to the connector as possible - never try to re-use portions of wire that have been damaged by an IDC. If it were me, I'd look long and hard for a replacement connector just because this one has been slightly mangled by whoever decided to short the wires together.

[Tarsun2]

lol i always called them "guillotine connectors".

the solenoid should not care about polarity (thus why both wires are the same color).

autoparts stores will have similar "guillotine connectors". they will have this style:

https://www.amazon.com/AIRIC-Solderl.../dp/B078N28188

they are NOT the best type of connector for a few reasons. you might even be able to use WAGO connectors. (they are pretty cool).

the wago's allow for 2 wire, 3 wire, and 4 wire connections.



if tech support is anything like LG dishwasher tech support, youre better off shooting yourself in the foot and squeezing lemon juice in your eyes as its less painful.
they said; turn it off and on again. did that solve the problem? no? ok, you need to call an LG certified FSE to come on site and diagnose. You will need to cover the cost of each visit (if there are multiple visits) and LG will cover the cost of the part (at LGs discursion).
each visit is $150.

had an issue with a diverter valve. replaced it with an LG valve and it failed in less than a year. after speaking with the FSE, all they would do is put another valve in and call it a day. i think it had a 30 day warranty... not helpful. i was able to diagnose it on my own with the help of the diag' menu on the machine and found the pump motor to be weak. this was the ultimate problem as the pump would not pump enough water to the top to register and the machine would kick out a diverter valve error assuming it was stuck closed. i replaced the pump and left the "faulty" valve. has been working ever since.

[Cdn_Cuda]

LG fridges aren’t much better. Mine died. Compressor went. They have an out of warranty option to pay like $400 and they replace everything in the fridge. So I’ve done that and just hope it lasts for 5+ years. Actually had good customer service once I spoke with a human. Just ask the automated messaging system for an operator.

[sniper97]

Thanks! the model # SHE3AR72UC/28 Serial # FD010800895

[Siress]

Thanks! the model # SHE3AR72UC/28 Serial # FD010800895

so... that's not the model you originally stated. No matter. Looks like this is a right angle connector and that it should have a plastic cap covering the backside where the metal IDC slides into the housing.

You can buy the replacement wiring harness for $35 (PN 12010719). Maybe call up an appliance repair shop and see if they have one in their scrap bin.

[sniper97]

I appreciate all the replies. Looks like the mounting bracket for the solenoid is missing and the top plastic cap on the wire harness is also missing. Pic from ebay

[Siress]

At this point, may as well consider creating your own connection... got any pictures of what's left on your solenoid?

[sniper97]

Appreciate all the help.and so quickly! A friend looked at it with me tonight, the metal piece went in the other side of the white connector, pushed it back in, pushed both wires in sideways to each side (trimmed off the cut part) and it works! I think Bosch would look for a better connection. In the future, buying at a Home Depot sale vs FB. I messaged the seller this morning who said he would take care of any problems and he blocked me.

[Siress]

Appreciate all the help.and so quickly! A friend looked at it with me tonight, the metal piece went in the other side of the white connector, pushed it back in, pushed both wires in sideways to each side (trimmed off the cut part) and it works! I think Bosch would look for a better connection. In the future, buying at a Home Depot sale vs FB. I messaged the seller this morning who said he would take care of any problems and he blocked me.

Happy you got it working! Thanks for reporting back.

[jaynilly]

Hi everyone. I’m jumping intro this thread since it appears to be related to my new question. Forgive my ignorance as I’m just a dude who is dumb enough to think he can fix anything. I’m replacing my Bosch intake water valve and when I was pulling out the power plug inside the bottom of the unit I evidently pulled the wires out of their clips. Here are my questions:

1) can anyone help with advice on how I seat the wires back in their white clips?

2) since I don’t even realize I did it, I’m not sure which wire goes on which side. Does it matter? How can I tell if I seated them wrong or right?

I’ve included a picture.

[Siress]

Be sure to read post #5 above - cut away the damaged insulation before re connecting.

1) the proper tool for the job is called a 'punch down' tool. I own a fancy one but rarely reach for it - opting instead to use whatever non-sharp thin-walled item is nearest at the time and just pressing down one side and then the other to seat the wire. Usually only takes about 6 presses in total to sort of rock it down into the IDC.

2) Great question. Hopefully it doesn't matter. You can try holding the wires over the connector to see if the bends in the wire indicate one orientation over the other. Aside from that, roll the dice and see how it works out.

Also, I have to ask - did you find this forum by searching for answers to this specific question? And have you any interest in paintball?

[Tarsun2]

if its just a solenoid, it does not matter which wire is which. the solenoid only needs to be energized or de-energized.
NC-NO is determined by the internal configuration.