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Probably was short304 he never returned after the "Ransoming". He provided rebuild kits and bulk orders to the MCB community. But, If I remember correctly, he was getting out of/shutting down the oring business, prior to the hack.
Sure I could order them. I have them set up right now from oring monkey read to purchase, but I liked the guy who I purchased them from years ago.
That website is intense! I have no idea what options I even want!
As568 buna 70 size 000 is standard buna rings. Go in there and look at the prices. They are really good
I've been ordering from these guys for years, I've never had a bad batch of rings and the guys that run it have a paintball background so they can often answer obscure questions
They have a minimum order but it's like $5 or something
Do you want those rings you listed in buna or polyurethane? I'll find you the exact links if you want
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As568 buna 70 size 000 is standard buna rings. Go in there and look at the prices. They are really good
I've been ordering from these guys for years, I've never had a bad batch of rings and the guys that run it have a paintball background so they can often answer obscure questions
They have a minimum order but it's like $5 or something
Do you want those rings you listed in buna or polyurethane? I'll find you the exact links if you want
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That's a good starting point, thanks. Looks like I'm getting more orings than I'm ever going to use.
haha, I'm buying these because I'm having issues with a single marker. Seems the Bob long victory curse has finally happened to me and I can't get the engine to seal correctly, even though the pressure tester seals great. Mostly I want the 007.
I've honestly considered selling it (before the leaks happened) and just buying an emek to replace it. I just never use it; now that it leaks, I need to solve that before I decide on selling it.
Has anyone ever considered using a 50 durometer for a static oring to help it conform and seal better?
haha, I'm buying these because I'm having issues with a single marker. Seems the Bob long victory curse has finally happened to me and I can't get the engine to seal correctly, even though the pressure tester seals great. Mostly I want the 007.
I've honestly considered selling it (before the leaks happened) and just buying an emek to replace it. I just never use it; now that it leaks, I need to solve that before I decide on selling it.
Has anyone ever considered using a 50 durometer for a static oring to help it conform and seal better?
My concern would be the 50 would push aside
I know a lot of bobs markers need dow55, not sure of the victory though.
You could try viton rings. Different compound but I've heard of people who have done full rebuilds with them. Supposedly they last longer but I have no experience.
yea, 'm concerned with the softness of them as well. They just sit outside the engine and seal against the body, but every time the engine is removed there's a risk of them being damaged.
the victory doesn't need dow 55, but I do plan on trying to use it on the orings that I think are leaking to get them to swell up and hopefully fill the missing gap between the body and engine.
I dont' think using a 006 oring was a fantastic design but it is what it is. I think everyone else is using a big oring around the whole engine instead of just trying to seal a pin hole.
Oh you are probably nicking/slicing them. I ran into that all the time when I was working for the shop doing BL legacy stuff. The real problem is Bob doesn't run the bodies through any kind of debur process so all the corners are razor sharp. It's a cost saving measure that's a huge pain in the ass for the end user
I would actually try a 90 duro and maybe even a polyurethane. The harder ring will hopefully survive going over the hole in the wall.
Idk the exact marker layout but if it's possible here's something to try.
Remove the solenoid and any manifold, if there's a hole that goes straight through to the tube you are in luck. Take a o ring pick(metal) and bend the tip around to make a small hook, slightly less than 90 degrees. one that's small enough to get the pick all the way through the hole. Insert pick and use the hook to run around the hole inside the tube. Do that with a number of passes and you should be able to take off the super sharp edge.
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That's not a bad idea, I might try that reaming idea later on if I have issues again.
I did manage to solve this leak last night! It was an oring that seals the engine halves. A big 020 oring wasn't something I expected to go bad, but I decided it was worth trying since I didn't have the 007 that I want.
Now I also know where to go for cheap bulk orings should I need them.
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