Questions about a cylinder head and a Spark Plug

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  • uv_halo
    Paintball Ballistician
    • Jul 2020
    • 286
    • Virginia, U.S.A.

    #1

    Questions about a cylinder head and a Spark Plug

    So, I tried posting this to the r/AskMechanics the other day, and got zero response (maybe posted at the wrong time, too wordy, who knows) so, I figure I will check here for any knowledgeable folks that might have some wisdom to impart.

    Car: 2010 Mazda 3, 2.5L I4 Duratec, 162K Miles

    Alerting issue: check Engine Light Flashing, P0304 (Misfire Detected, Cylinder 4)

    To check for a failing coil, I swapped 3 and 4. No new codes.

    I then checked the plug and immediately noticed it was loose (as in next to zero torque required to pull it). When I got the plug out, I found lots of carbon all the way up the threads and, both the electrode and anode tips were gone.

    This is the second time I've found the cylinder 4 plug loose (the first was in my first routine plug change cycle, back in Aug 2024). The threads on the cylinder don't look perfect but, they don't look cross threaded. A new plug definitely starts loose and doesn't present much torque until it shoulders, and I've been using a Torque wrench to the center of the specific range (according to the factory service manual) for any and all fasteners, ever since I bought the car. I was able to get the new plug torqued in to the upper range of the torque spec.

    Given that I've only ever changed the plugs once before, and in that time, I found the same plug loose, I suspect that the manufacturer over torqued plug four and, stretched the threads a bit, allowing it to loosen over time, which, I suspect allows for even more wear due to a less than ideal heat transfer from the plug and, a less than ideal electrical connection.

    Here's something I realized- For many years, (even prior to my plug change) I've had intermittent startup issues. A 'normal' startup for this car is what I experienced immediately after changing the plug- Key on, and within two seconds the engine is running normally, no need for throttle. The intermittent issue was where sometimes I would have to key on for twice as long or longer, often using gas to start the car. Not reproducible on demand. I asked a shop about it once, and they found nothing. Is it possible this is related to plug 4? Where it gets a loose and doesn't create a good spark and, it happens to be the first cylinder to spark on a given startup.

    I'm currently driving the car with a regular and a torque wrench and plan to periodically check the plug. Should I just re-thread the cylinder with a spark plug thread repair (heli coil or similar) kit and be done with it?






    Originally posted by Tom Kaye, in response to FS price critics:

    Unfortunately all of you have played the one "speedball" game of paintball for so long you can't conceive of other ways to do this and hence any new ideas seem stupid.
    External Ballistics | Rifled VS Smoothbore FS Barrels | My Feedback
  • Glovebox Operator
    MCB Member
    • Sep 2025
    • 435
    • New Mexico

    #2
    I think you're on the right track, Heli-coiling it would be smart. I'd also do a compression test and leak-down test to make sure the cylinder and valves are in good shape too.

    Comment

    • Melrosejedi
      pump kings
      • Feb 2021
      • 679
      • Upstate new vampire york

      #3
      Sounds like you definitely need to have a helicoil installed. The black on the spark plug is sediment from ignition in the cylinder leaking out past the loose spark plug. The loose plug will effect the engine running but not at start up so much. I beleive you lost your spark plug electrode and lost a cylinder on start up.have a reputable shop repair the threads as you need to drill and tap and removal of the shavings is important.they can also perform a compression leak down after and determine if it is holding pressure. Good luck.

      Comment

      • cockerpunk
        Salting the ice
        • Jul 2020
        • 234
        • The Great State Of Minnesota

        #4
        i mean there is the get her running solution, and the actually fix it solution.

        get her running ... just keep checking the spark plug every few months, and you'll likely be fine.

        actual fix, probably a helicoil, which means pulling the head. lotta "while your in here" projects and you might learn more about what is causing the issue. but its a solid weekend project for a hobbyist, or a few thousand at the shop.



        but yeah, starting issue is probably the grounding of the plug. as the threads separate/loosen, soot gets in the threads, the plug isnt grounded anymore, so it will start sparking across any gap, basically the other connections. it might even been sparking over to the head itself, which is grounded. further blowing off the electrodes, and probably actually wearing away at the head itself.

        Comment

        • Pumpytrilly1
          Certified Post Whore
          • Jul 2020
          • 560

          #5
          Is there enough room in the spark plug hole to make a thin shim of aluminum? Then you can see if it still loosens and if it's likely the threads giving out.
          Feedback

          Comment


          • uv_halo
            uv_halo commented
            Editing a comment
            That is a very interesting approach, while it would certainly act to increase the tension on the threads, I think it would introduce a gap at the edges of the shim that could let gas enter in, and around the threads.
        • SignOfZeta
          Space Commie
          • Jul 2020
          • 930
          • Ann Arbor

          #6
          Does Mazda/Ford use plugs with captive crush washers on this engine?

          Comment


          • uv_halo
            uv_halo commented
            Editing a comment
            I can't speak to other makes/models but, this car does not use them.
        • Tarsun2
          Certified Post Whore
          • Jul 2020
          • 1026

          #7
          at 160k miles and the second set of plugs, how often do you replace the plugs? (rhetorical question)...
          if you do plugs again 160k miles later, that would put you at 320k miles. not insanity but you did say that there are allot of other little things that need attention.
          the 2.5 fomoco is a stout engine but the rest of the car will likely fail by then.
          if it were me, id red-loctite a new plug in there and call it a day.

          i had a 2010(?) mazda3 2.5 with 200k miles on it; was nickel and diming me to death at that point. Then the rust started to get worse.

          Comment

          • uv_halo
            Paintball Ballistician
            • Jul 2020
            • 286
            • Virginia, U.S.A.

            #8
            Thanks guys!! I'm not really fond of the idea of paying for the head to be removed and, given how long it took me to get the valve cover gasket job done, I don't think I have the capacity (workspace and, time) to do a full head removal and re-threading. That leaves me two options:
            • Re-threading the hole in place: Provided that my just conceived concept for catching the shavings would work*
            • "Permanent solution" like Tarsun mentioned, high temp loctite or JB Weld.


            Originally posted by Tarsun2
            at 160k miles and the second set of plugs, how often do you replace the plugs? (rhetorical question)...
            if you do plugs again 160k miles later, that would put you at 320k miles. not insanity but you did say that there are allot of other little things that need attention.
            the 2.5 fomoco is a stout engine but the rest of the car will likely fail by then.
            if it were me, id red-loctite a new plug in there and call it a day.

            i had a 2010(?) mazda3 2.5 with 200k miles on it; was nickel and diming me to death at that point. Then the rust started to get worse.
            Point taken. I don't recall saying I have a bunch of little things to do however. I have already DIY'd quite a few projects on this car in the last few years:
            • Wheel Bearings
            • Inner and Outer Tie Rods
            • Oil Cooler
            • Valve Cover Gasket
            • Rotors
            • Clutch Master Cylinder
            • AC Expansion Valve
            • Stainless Exhaust
            • Shocks and Struts (a few years earlier than the above)
            I would like to get the hood and roof re-painted (clearcoat started to fail late last year)

            * Concept: More on this later.
            Originally posted by Tom Kaye, in response to FS price critics:

            Unfortunately all of you have played the one "speedball" game of paintball for so long you can't conceive of other ways to do this and hence any new ideas seem stupid.
            External Ballistics | Rifled VS Smoothbore FS Barrels | My Feedback

            Comment

            • cockerpunk
              Salting the ice
              • Jul 2020
              • 234
              • The Great State Of Minnesota

              #9
              i certainly would not drill and helicoil it in place.

              Comment

              • Tarsun2
                Certified Post Whore
                • Jul 2020
                • 1026

                #10
                i was referencing the "lotta 'while youre in there' projects"... but i should have worded that different.
                either way, to do it right, it will take time or $. drilling and tapping in place would be the least desirable.

                just depends on how long you want to keep it and how much $ you want to put into it. even if you have to buy a new head and have a shop do the install, it would still be much MUCH cheaper than buying a new car; heck, it would be cheaper than buying a used (unknown) car too.

                Comment

                • Chappy
                  Overmoderator
                  • Jul 2020
                  • 1299

                  #11
                  If I was gonna try loctiting a spark plug, I would put the loctite on the plug and let it dry overnight before installing to reduce the chance it becomes permanent. But I wouldn’t loctite a spark plug unless the vehicle’s a known time bomb and I’m just eking out a few more miles. Good luck with it. As a beater connoisseur I applaud your efforts good sir

                  Comment


                  • Glovebox Operator
                    Glovebox Operator commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Loctite is anaerobic and will not set in air. It needs the absence of air to set.
                • SignOfZeta
                  Space Commie
                  • Jul 2020
                  • 930
                  • Ann Arbor

                  #12
                  Yeah, I would not Loctite a spark plug on a car and then put $50 worth of gas in it. That’s for when you’re truly beyond the Thunderdome.

                  What a lot of Honda Fit people do when this problem happens is clean the threads and seating surface as well as possible, probably get a new plug, and torque it +25%. If that strips the threads right there then I guess pull the head and helicoil it. If it does tighten up then you’re good until the next plug change.

                  Also: Helicoil with the head in place isn’t totally insane as long as you have a lot of care, compressed air, and you don’t turn the engine whatsoever.

                  Comment

                  • Glovebox Operator
                    MCB Member
                    • Sep 2025
                    • 435
                    • New Mexico

                    #13
                    Plenty of Ford 5.4 3 valve heads had their spark plug threads redone with the head on. The Ford shop next to ours had a constant stream of them in for that. A nice bore scope helps you verify you cleaned up the cylinder well after it's done.

                    Comment

                    • SignOfZeta
                      Space Commie
                      • Jul 2020
                      • 930
                      • Ann Arbor

                      #14
                      Originally posted by Glovebox Operator
                      Plenty of Ford 5.4 3 valve heads had their spark plug threads redone with the head on. The Ford shop next to ours had a constant stream of them in for that. A nice bore scope helps you verify you cleaned up the cylinder well after it's done.
                      Lord…those trucks. When the Triton plug problem first became known in the late 90s/early 2000s I was shocked at both how absolutely pathetic the actual failure was and at how they decided to stuff that engine into pickup that is harder to work on than a Lamborghini. This was the beginning of “remove body from frame” becoming a basic 1st step when working on their trucks.

                      Its absolutely astonishing the extent to which Ford absolutely screws its customers and just as amazing that customers excitedly buy the next time bomb and do it to themselves all over again. The wet belt fiasco on V6s is twice as bad as the spark plugs shooting out of the old V8s since at least that didn’t destroy the entire engine but…why? Why did they need to use such hilariously teeny spark plugs? An Audi TT has five valves per cylinder and still uses a full sized plug in smaller cylinders. Why don’t the teeny plugs stay in? Why design stuff so on the edge? And why can’t customers learn?

                      Comment


                      • Glovebox Operator
                        Glovebox Operator commented
                        Editing a comment
                        Who would have thought that 4 tiny diameter threads wasn't enough?

                      • Tarsun2
                        Tarsun2 commented
                        Editing a comment
                        On a side note, this is why i laugh when people say, "the engineers who designed the car know best." oh yeah? is that so?

                      • SignOfZeta
                        SignOfZeta commented
                        Editing a comment
                        Who says that? I work in automotive engineering and I’ve never heard such a thing.
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