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From what I know its hard to "polish", delrin is really good for abrasion resistance. It can be machines easily but I dont think fine sand paper would do much
you could probably use a flame to melt small scratch but not sure how easy it would be.
I thought the entire point of machined delrin was because of it's low coefficient of friction. What's wrong with the bolt? I'm confused as I've never heard of it being polished.
I could have sworn I had something important to put here...
​​​​​​Your friendly neighborhood Hive Tyrant. Convert to the cult Automag.
It may not be needed but here is my current situation.
I am looking to replace my Scouts aluminum bolt with a delrin one. The one I found doesn't have detent slots... so I was.planning on drilling detent slots and sanding down any roughness. This seems like it may be a terrible idea?
That's fine. I did it with a Spyder BANDIT delrin bolt. You don't need to polish the delrin just make sure your cuts are smooth. I added grooves to mine for finger style detents. I used a Dremel to grind in the slots. I did run 2500 sand-paper over the parts I worked on, but that was just to remove anything sticking out I missed.
I have wet sanded with some Micro-Mesh with some success, not as good as the tool cut. Try steel wool, or a scraper/knice to produce a new "tool" cut. I've read heat will work, but you can ruin the part and produce some dangerous smoke, so I skipped this method.
google polishing acetal homopolymer, polishing Polyoxymethylene for better info.
There was a thread posted by tracker on the old forum where he details his experience cutting and polishing an AKALMP viking or excalibur bolt. I've seen them come out fully shiny but never tried to do it myself because I never cared, so I am not sure what it would actually take. It's doable though.
A lead wipe-away cloth works great for polishing delrin. You can find them at gun stores- they're for getting the lead gunk off of your stainless steel revolver.
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