PPS Typhoon LPR leak

[mikew]

I'm looking at rebuilding the LPR on my 30 year old typhoon but I'm a bit stumped on how to get the poppet valve out of the body.

At the moment pressure is building up until the blow off valve releases pressure in a series of pops. After taking the front adjuster knob and spring pack out you can hear a slight leak from the poppet valve. I guess after 30 years the seat is either damaged or contaminated with debris.

Any ideas?

[BrickHaus]

I push the whole lpr body out. ( the few times Ive worked on them lol).

I assume you have the Vasa ( if there us one) and the lpr output fitting removed? What happens if you carefully use an allen wrench and try to push the lpr body out?

ive attached the technical repository thread that shows a disassembled one for ya.

[mikew]

I've stripped everything off I can.

LPR output fitting, HP line, hammer, main valve assembly but nothing wants to move.

Looking again at the diagram it looks like the LPR body comes out the front and the valve body goes out the back. Is a special tool or pin punch required?

[BrickHaus]

The lpr out the front is correct. The valve out the back just like a sheridan is also correct. The valve needs a valve tool, but Ive taken lprs out first on the ones I worked on. In those examples the air fittings are what help it in place. Im assuming its just stuck on ya.

If you carefully slide an appropriately sized allen wrench in the lpr output hole, and you put tension on it enough to get it to rotate? Maybe get motion started that direction and pull it towards the front. Just dont mar up the fitting threads.

If you dont want to do that, then remove the valve and use a small dowel to push the lpr guts out.

[Jordan]

Substitute threading in a 10-32 thread screw for the Allen key, you'll get a better grip without damaging threads.

Removing the valve won't access the LPR guts, the coupler has to come out the back first.

[BrickHaus]

Ahh yeah, I forgot about the side tap plug. But either way, you seem to have explained what I meant pretty well.

[Jordan]

None of that needed to come out, tbh... if you blow some relatively high pressure air through the the hole LPR fitting threads into, the LPR piston will shoot out the front. Got the tip from PPS a long time ago.

[mikew]

I removed the LPR piston without any problem. I need to replace the valve itself. It's over 30 years old and either the seat is damaged or has debris embedded in it. so I need to remove the whole assembly.

[Jordan]

Ok, I read your posts as describing the overpressure relief was leaking.

You'll need to pull the LPR body out the front, but it's likely stuck on an old seal and/or Loctite residue. Thread a bottomline screw into the output of the LPR and wiggle the LPR body back and and forth until it moves. Some sort of penetrant will help.

Once it's moving you'll need to get it forward to the front of the lower tube. I generally use a combination of various objects poked through the different openings in the lower tube to help it along.

[mikew]

I've tried threading a bolt into the LPR output and tapping it. Whilst it will move sideways freely with a bit of effort it will not move down the lower tube at all. It looks like the regulator body and valve chamber body are well and truly stuck together. I've tried soaking the assembly with WD40 but with no effect.

[mikew]

After putting the Typhoon to one side for a few months I'm back on the case.

I've made some progress and managed to get the LPR housing out of the front of the lower tube.

Now all that remains is the alloy body that sits behind the valve (circled in red). The valve is out so there should be nothing holding it in place. Still it is stuck tight. My question is can I knock it out and which direction should it go if that matters?

[Cdn_Cuda]

It might be helpful to look at my Hurricane disassembly thread. It’s actually a converted Hurricane, so internals are the same. I had similar issues to you. These things are beasts to work on!

https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/paintball-news-aa/the-armory/palmer-pursuit-shop/320690-palmer-hurricane-disassembly

[mikew]

It might be helpful to look at my Hurricane disassembly thread. It’s actually a converted Hurricane, so internals are the same. I had similar issues to you. These things are beasts to work on!

Many thanks, I managed to knock the final piece out of the rear of the marker.

Apart from the o-rings being mush I found the cause of the LPR leak. There was some metal swarf sitting under the valve seat.

Both valve seats look ok so it looks like it only needs o-rings to get it back up and running

[Jordan]

Those are very old internals - the LPR arrangement doesn't use those components anymore.

I think Craig said they update everything when they do rebuilds. What's the serial number?

[mikew]

It's a very early model P146

[mikew]

I've reassembled the Typhoon a couple of times but I'm still getting an air leak. You can hear it the loudest from the opening where the air line enters. I've replaced all the o-rings twice but with no luck.

Followup - I'm now looking at the threads where the airline attaches to the lower tube and they are in poor condition. I'm thinking that the leak may be coming from here. Any suggestions on the best way to seal this? The threads are too rough for tape, it just tears. I've used Loctite in the past for this type of problem but it didn't work this time so I was thinking of using a thread sealant. Any recommendations?

[mikew]

I pulled the Typhoon out for another look this week.

I was pretty sure by now that the leak was coming from where the main airline elbow screwed into the right hand side of the body. The elbow was screwed in tight with sealant but leaked regardless. That's when I had an idea. Perhaps the fitting was bottoming out. So I machined 2mm off the bottom of the thread on the elbow, added some sealant and refitted it. After allowing the sealant to set for a day I aired up the Typhoon and was back in business. Problem solved!