Clocking the front pneus on AC

[djeclypse]

How do you clock the pneus on a cocker without using ugly teflon tape? Can you use a vibratite or threadlocker and set it where you want? I really only want to do this once. I'm specifically asking about the stock WGP, yes the 3 way is easy lol, and ID pneus. Thanks!

[Jordan]

Yep.

[BrickHaus]

Ive used blue loctite a few times.

[Ecapnation]

I generally stick an o-ring on the back of the ram.

Three-way I use blue loctite don't doesn't shift

[Chuck E Ducky]

Light hold locktite. This is the way.

[Memornix]

I'm gonna be a nerd for a second then offer real advice.

Alot of people refer to loctite and blue or red and this is generally accurate at the hardware store level but there are different levels of blue and red. I bring this up because some blue can be really tenacious and result in a 3 way that never ever comes off. When I want to lock in a 3 way, I use this which is actually pink

https://www.amazon.com/LOCTITE-Threa...NsaWNrPXRydWU=

It is low strength and I don't use much. Otherwise, as stated in posts above, an oring on the ram works well but you can also pink it and be fine.

[BrickHaus]

For the blues. I only know of 242, and 243. They are essentially the same medium hold loctite but 242 doesn't require primer, and also boast oil resistance.

[William the Third]

You mean to say that "but 243 doesn't require primer, and also boast oil resistance".

[BrickHaus]

William. Yes. That is what I meant to say.

[Chuck E Ducky]

Agreed that’s why I went generic term “light hold” because color dose not correspond with strength of the hold. Less is more you want just enough to goober up the threads so it don’t back out with use.

If you’re not sure what you have go buy a new bottle. Because the strong hold stuff needs to be heated and you will smoke seals doing that if you ever want to get it apart. If you don’t heat the max strength stuff it will strip the threads out before it breaks loose. There is absolutely no reason to use the high strength stuff on anything paintball related. It’s the devil’s sauce!

[Magmoormaster]

I only use green loctite

[Memornix]

I only use green loctite

Green can mean a whole world of hurt. Or not, pending what kind of Green. Wicking grade is kinda neat but bearing retaining compound is no joke.

(I have to confess I am a little but of a loctite conisour, for the record blue 242 tastes the sweetest)

[DocsMachine]

Ducks has it spot on. There is no place for red anywhere on a paintball gun, unless you're doing a permanent repair- like seating a thread repair insert, or plugging an "eye" hole.

For 'Cocker pneumatics, I use teflon tape on the LPR, and a tiny dab of blue on the ram and 3-way. IF the ram doesn't want to seat reasonably well, I might fit a small, thin, plastic washer under there, but usually, a drop of blue is more than enough.

Tried some of other flavors, and they have their uses, but really, blue works for 99% of the day-to-day marker needs.

As for the longtime argument between liquid sealants and teflon tape, the typical prohibition of the tape is that it can shed bits that can then clog regs or solenoids.

Which is true, but then so can the loctite. Loctite a fitting, then remove it later, the sealant crumbles to dust. That needs to be cleaned out carefully before reinstalling- just like the tape.

As for using the tape, wrap it to the edge of the tape doesn't extend over the end of the threads, and you're set. A pair of tweezers easily removes the excess outside the fitting.

Doc.

[glaman5266]

"As for using the tape, wrap it to the edge of the tape doesn't extend over the end of the threads, and you're set. A pair of tweezers easily removes the excess outside the fitting."

I am that guy who uses tape for just about everything, even on my autocockers. I'm faster with it & if I ever need to tear it apart again it's easy to clean up. And you don't need to wait for it to cure/harden, which is great for testing stuff right away.

Tape is just fine if it's done right.

[DocsMachine]

Teflon tape is widely used. When they replaced my squeaky natural gas meter a few years ago, they used the yellow tape, I learned how to properly wrap tape from an instrument tech who used the stuff daily at the local oil refinery, it's used for coolant and air connections in my CNC machines, I use it to seal threaded connections when I'm doing engine work (like for oil lines, coolant fittings, vacuum connections, etc.)

The only "paintball" prohibition came from companies like Bob Long, who refused to warranty clogged solenoids, if you're used teflon tape. Claiming that bits of the tape had come off and clogged it- which, point in fact, is true and can easily happen.

But, the same thing can happen with the liquid sealants- pull that fitting out and most of the sealant crumbles to dust, as I said. Properly wrapped, teflon tape works just as well, and I find it's easier to clean up when reinstalling a fitting.

Doc.

[djeclypse]

Thanks. I have both LT Blue 242 and VT purple 111. I doubt the 111 will hold tight enough so blue it is.

[PlawB]

My 3 ways never move if I don't poke them. Some of them I can throw an o ring onto it and screw that in and it'll hold well. Others I'll put a sliver of teflon tape at the very end of the threads and that works well. Most rams I need to loctite. LPRs always get loctited.

[latches109]

I avoid using adhesives on any autococker I build.
Just not needed.

Locking a ram in position will wear it out faster, use an oring. Some flex is good.

[OpusX]

Orings and purple Vibra-Tite 11125 "low strength".