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Older Glued SP All American Question

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    Older Glued SP All American Question

    With them being two pieces glued together, any idea on how far the fronts "go into" the backs? Would that depth change if it was a 14" or 16"?

    #2
    Just measured a 14in AA barrel and believe it's 1 to 1.2", measured from the tip of the beveled control bore where it meet the front (not the top of the bevel). It's as accurate as I could get by shoving a broken plastic clothes hanger down the tip and feeling for it to catch on the lip of the control bore. It's is a .684 control bore so it was not hard to catch and 'remeasured' several times.

    You sir owe me a plastic clothes hanger πŸ˜†

    Not sure if it changes between different lengths. If others get a different depth from their barrels, I'll dig out my other 14in AA and prod it too.

    Now I'm curious why ya wanna know? What ya plannin?

    Comment


      #3
      I think it was the back length that changed on the "one-piece" AAs, not the front... AFAIK the tips are all the same length, including how far they go into the backs.
      And God turned to Gabriel and said: β€œI shall create a land called Canada of outstanding natural beauty, with majestic mountains soaring with eagles, sparkling lakes abundant with bass and trout, forests full of elk and moose, and rivers stocked with salmon. I shall make the land rich in oil so the inhabitants prosper and call them Canadians, and they shall be praised as the friendliest of all people.”

      β€œBut Lord,” asked Gabriel, β€œIs this not too generous to these Canadians?”

      And God replied, β€œJust wait and see the neighbors I shall inflict upon them."

      Comment


      • minimag03

        minimag03

        commented
        Editing a comment
        One thing about their bore length that dawned on me, cocker threads came with a long enough back to fit/support the shroud. Dunno how SP came up with the tiny mag bores while the Shocker 4x4 (appeared to) have the longest.

      #4
      Interesting, thank you! minimag03​​​, I'll spill some of the beans for ya...working on a cocker build, and looking to snag a couple for it depending on how the answers came back. As such, they'd be freak bored (standard 5")/re-anodized and I wasn't sure if there would have been an issue. Seems like there's plenty of space left from freak boring to where they glue together. Also, I assume the factory glue would need to be "broken" and the pieces would need to be anodized separately then glued back together?

      Comment


      • minimag03

        minimag03

        commented
        Editing a comment
        I've got some terrible news. Most of these barrels were glued together evenly. The majority are so crooked that you can roll bore across a table and watch the tip wobble instead of spinning evenly/parallel to the bore. For this reason, BMC will not Freak bore them, and I trust his opinion when he's turning his own work.. I was disappointed to find out as well

        Since you're planning on disassembling it there is hope the two parts could be glue back together straight or threaed like s regular 2 piece. I read about a a similar issue with a glued Ti Dye Boomstick. Angry Paintball took on the project. Dunno how it was fixed I'm confident it was straight once done. But this is not something you want to under take alone.

      • Sottyman
        Sottyman commented
        Editing a comment
        Hmmmmmmm. So the issue is the fronts not being glued in correctly? I wonder if Doc would be willing to take a stab at it. I'll shoot him a PM!

      • minimag03

        minimag03

        commented
        Editing a comment
        Sottyman yes, the issues is getting both front and back glued perfectly straight. But to be clear, you could probably send the barrel back alone to be bored if you want 5in inserts. BMC should be able to do that. I personally would ask how much it would cost to thread the two part. Id ask for cheapest/easiest to thread for the machinist to do along with a price for SP fronts.

      #5
      They are pretty easy to separate, clean up and re-glue (epoxy). I've done a few over the years for people so they can get them anodized then put them back together. The biggest problem really is not them being glued straight is actually the back having been bored correctly. If they are not bored correctly there really isn't anything worth doing.


      "When you are asked if you can do a job, tell 'em, 'Certainly I can!' Then get busy and find out how to do it." - Theodore Roosevelt

      Feedback Link - https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/b...del-s-feedback

      Comment


      • Sottyman
        Sottyman commented
        Editing a comment
        I imagine any decent shop (Doc, BMC, etc) would bore well!

      • minimag03

        minimag03

        commented
        Editing a comment
        Yup, regluing straight i the issue. If SP (back when they were seemingly focused on quality and not lawfare) could only get like 1 of 20 glued straight its gotta be a challenge. I personally think it's probably worth the xtra money to have someone thread the back and front. I'd ask BMC first. If it spins, he's the first person I'd contact.
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