Who knows slg's on here

[Psycho91]

Ok so who is the proto slg guru on here or atleast knows some things about them, I have an 09 version and want to know if there's any mods or upgrades to keep it alive as long as possible I hear these things are ticking time bombs and eventually just die, should I pick up some things like an extra sear or the bolt ring that catches the sear, any advice on what orings to use in this thing i know it has some of those funky squared orings

did they even make upgrades for these things, tbh this thing never got the credit it deserved the design is just genius if you ask me

[jetenginekyle]

https://www.paintballgateway.com/search?type=product&q=slg

Parts availblity seems pretty good.

If it were me I'd grab an extra sear, bolt ring and eye harness

The noid should have a model number or something on it you can lookup to find a replacement or if its discontinued you can mesure the diameter, length, voltage, and throw so that you can replace it with an equivalent noid

[Ecapnation]

They didn't have anything other than trigger upgrades and maybe boards....kinda an evolutionary dead end gun.

[Trbo323]

I'm probably as close to an "expert" as there is on them. Yeah not a lot of aftermarket stuff. UL frame, I'm pretty sure the triggers for the ul are not slg specific. There are 2 versions of the bolt, one has done extra exhaust porting

That black piece towards the bottom of the photo is called the silencer and it does help quiet down the marker.

And yes you are right, it was a very good and under rated design. I think it has some quality things that could be better, it can be difficult to get the bolt back in because nothing is chamfered in the body so you have to get stuff lined up exactly as you put the bolt in.

I have two on hand right now and I want to try and build a mechanical one at some point. I think it can work and it should be a fairly quiet spool if it works.

Wonder if an aluminum UL frame would bolt up?....

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[Psycho91]

I thought about polishing the bolt but it probably won't help much, mine had the silencer but is gone now although I can't tell if it was just never put back on or if the threads on the plunger are broke there's threads there but idk how long it's supposed to be

Iv read that NDZ made a back cap for these but I can't find any Info or pics at all of them, they use eyes from the dm4/5/and dmc I think, no the trigger isn't slg specific it's just a regular ul trigger(I have the ul version)

Any idea who made boards for these or if it can somehow be updated, there is a port on the board with nothing plugged into it

[Ecapnation]

Virtue.... Briefly

[Trbo323]

No idea on the boards. If it's working fine I would suggest against polishing it. Around 09-11 is when dyes tolerances went all wonky. I've had a few PMRs that the tolerances were so tight that you could not use a different durometer o ring and you could not use a different material o ring than what the manual called for. You had to have those exact rings or you were up a creek.

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[Psycho91]

Ok well looks like ima get some spares and just set it up how I want and enjoy it, I had one of the first ones they released and loved it although it half worked and you had to reset the bolt all the time hopefully the 2nd gens are a little better

[Psycho91]

Trbo323 where do you get your orings kits from and any chance you know what feednecks fit these

[Trbo323]

I don't buy kits I stock sizes. Everything 003-022.

Theoringstore.com

As568
000 size
Buna

Not sure on the feedneck, I've never needed to replace one

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[MrBarraclough]

I'm pretty knowledgable about SLGs. I've had a 2010 for a few years now and have previously tried to restore a 2009 UL SLG that I ultimately had to send back to the seller (who later admitted he'd accidentally swapped the frame with another example he owned). That second adventure taught me a lot, and even led to an interesting email exchange with Billy Wing regarding the SLG project's development and ultimate demise.

Here's the biggest problem with SLGs in general: The factory in Taiwan had an unfortunate habit of making undocumented or poorly documented tweaks to parts, presumably for ease of manufacturing. Nice way of saying that they sometimes deviated from design specs without telling anyone. Parts of the SLG's design are actually very tolerance-sensitive, so this caused all kinds of havoc. Trigger/sear geometry was a big one. Sometimes tolerance stacking worked out in your favor, sometimes the opposite. Billy said that what ultimately killed the SLG is that when they came in for warranty repairs, DYE could never be sure if the replacement parts they were using would actually work. So they pulled the plug. They had a bunch of circuit boards already made or ordered for the UL version, and those got repurposed in the 2011 Proto Rail and its successors. Anyway, the main takeaway from that story is that spare parts that should work may or may not. But if they don't, that doesn't mean that none will, just that you've gotten ahold of stuff from incompatible production runs.

Case in point: sears. There should be two different sear lengths, with slightly different placement of the pivot hole. I think they used one design in 2008, tried something different in 2009, and supposedly reverted to the 2008 style for 2010, at least for the non-UL model. But really there are more variations than that, as some sears have round pivot holes and others have oblong ones that allow for a bit of up/down float. Using the wrong one will cause the clapper solenoid to fail to reliably trip the sear. I have an old technician's kit with multiple sears and examples of both styles. The good news is that the sear is harder than the bolt ring, so is unlikely to need replacement due to wear. Just be aware that SLG's are finicky about sear to bolt fitment and so any attempt at a frame swap would be pretty dicey.

A high wear part is the bolt ring. If you want to keep an SLG running long term, you're going to want spares of the bolt ring. Bolts themselves are a little prone to mushrooming, so I would not pass up spare bolts either if you come across any.

Your 2009 should have an all aluminum body, right? If so, that's great because it eliminates a potential failure point on the GRN body sleeves that the 2010s have.

[Jonnydread]

Does someone have the ELI5 description of the operation of these markers? From my understanding they're kind of a sear-tripper spool valve?

[Psycho91]

Yes they are a sear tripping spool valve, ill take pics if you want as I have mine apart at the moment, it's a dump valve setup, it is very very simple, sear catches a thick ring on the bolt and it works like your typical clapper setup

and yes mine is the 2009 ul version with an aluminum body, do i still have to worry about the mushrooming

[mueller]

Pardon the BST moment but I have an extra aluminum SLG body and bolt in the scrap pile because I didn't think anyone was looking for this stuff --- y'all are welcome to it for cheap. Sounds like the right people to make use of it. just ping me with any beer money offer and it's yours

[Jonnydread]

Such an MCB post I love it

[Psycho91]

What color I might be interested

[Trbo323]

Does someone have the ELI5 description of the operation of these markers? From my understanding they're kind of a sear-tripper spool valve?

Yes. It's basically a newer age automag. Here,
slg


And classic automag


Dye eliminated the need for the mechanical spring and used air to push the bolt back instead. The slg also separated the regulator from the bolt assembly. AGD also made the bolt out of steel because it had to contact the spring and sear. Dye opted for a lot more aluminum which is where the mushrooming problem can come from.

Side question for anyone that knows. If you do a Google search for "slg circuit board" why is it that you find some with a capacitor and others without?

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[Psycho91]

Might be the frame and board difference with the UL version