Cci phantom Nickel/brass hard lines

[InfamousCesar]

I’ve been looking around trying to find some forums about the Cci phantom hardlines no luck. The main question I have is what’s the main difference between the brass and nickel hard line?

And also is it possible to tune a phantom to shoot 5 star paintball with no breaks? I’ve only had luck shooting regular field grade paint with hardly any breaks, I know co2 plays a big role but is it possible? If anyone knows a paint higher than field grade that runs good on co2/phantom let me know!

[Magageddon]

there's no real difference performance wise between the two hardline materials. Its more of just of an aesthetic piece for people doing custom builds

As far as barrel breaks/chops, I don't have any issues running tournament grade paint on my phantoms. I use freak bored barrels and just size the paint to the insert and it just works.

The only difference on my phantoms are that their original phantoms, not the new generation EV's been putting out.

[Chuck E Ducky]

Cesar are you running an under cocking kit? If so make sure the lock washer is still on the mounting screw. Otherwise the screw will be to long and poke into the breach and make it hard on paint.

A properly setup phantom should not be hard on paint. Are you using the detent rings? (They can be harder on paint) but still should shoot anything you feed it.

Air Solder Products detents are definitely my personal favorite. You can over bore crap paint and you still won’t get roll outs. It will hold paint in the breach without a barrel so it don’t matter what you put in front and they are very gentle on paint. It’s a great mod. Or you can buy the 2.0 body from extreme that comes with the ASP mod already cut.

Stock Silver springs, clean, lightly oiled, (825psi HPA input pressure) 1.5-2 turns in on the TPC from flush. Make sure your bolt tip Oring is in good condition and sealing properly on the body and that the area that they make contact if free of dirt or paint.

[SignOfZeta]

A Phantom isn’t particular about paint. Something else is wrong.

Throw the detent rings in the trash if you have them. Make sure if you’re using freeks that they aren’t too tight. Measure your paint in as many directions as possible. Tape is way more gentle than any freak. The ASP/2.0 is so far from a sure thing that, IMHO, it isn’t worth pursuing at all since tape exists.

[InfamousCesar]

Thanks for all the advice guys. kind of figured the brass was just for aesthetic.

I currently have 2 phantoms one over barrel and one under cocking with the spring feed. Both ASP detents, with stock silver springs. I didn’t bother trying 5 star because I tried my buddy’s phantom 2.0 and it was just awful with 5 star paint, balls flying and broken balls made it a complete mess. And also broke 4 balls rapid firing. We’ve also bored the barrel and tuned to shoot 280fps, was still breaking balls and flying everywhere. After that I never ran 5 star in a phantom but now I want to revisit it.

I just tuned my vasa stock class phantom, everything looks to be in good order, so I will try out G.I 5 star this Weeknd with 12gs.

[Chuck E Ducky]

The 2.0 valve needs to be bored out. It lacks the volume needed. You need to drill it out to the specs of a standard valve. Lots of people are drilling straight through and adding a gage. I stopped approximately 1/4” before it poked through so its all hidden. There is a thread on it. We ended up figuring out how to fix them no thanks to extreme.

The 2.0 valve hard on paint due to the massive amount of spring you need to operate that valve with nothing behind it. They also choke on 12g if you don’t pump and shoot right away before the valve overpresurize. Because there is no room for the co2 to expand.

If you are getting rollouts go up a size or harder duro on your ASP detent orings and overbore. Today’s paint isn’t consistent enough to bore match anymore. It’s the inconsistency in size that is giving you issues. Not because the marker is hard on paint. I can shoot 5 star with mine even in down into the colder temps without issues using this method.

Zetta had issues with his 2.0 body he got it from extreme likely with too small or too soft orings. so they may be sending the bodies out with improper orings. Zetta couldn’t figuring it out.

I have had 5 or so done by ASP with zero issues it’s my favorite mod.

[JeeperCreeper]

Im pretty sure the nickel line is just a plated brass line anyway. Its simply for the looks you want.

It seems this conversion slightly shifted to the 2.0/ASP mod bodies. I 100% reccomend the detents. That way I can use a Freak barrel insert that is slightly over bored without fearing any rollout. As Chucky said, it will hold a ball chambered without a barrel on. I've never had any problems with mine. The

2.0 valves though, a lot of people have been complaining about those. I just got my hands on one, I'm gonna try to add volume to the valve by drilling it out and adding a rear gauge. I absolutely love the look of no air line.

[flyweightnate]

You might be clipping the next ball with the spring feed. Because Phantoms drop into an oversized breech (7/8" bolt) instead of a bore-sized breech (11/16" like a Trracer or Bushmaster) it's easy to pinch the next ball in the feed when pushing the first ball into the barrel. I never enjoyed a spring feed because it makes this easier to do/ harder to not do.

[InfamousCesar]

Hey flyweightnate, I just now rapid fired my springpheed setup, no breaks with field grade, I haven’t tried 5 star yet with the spring pheed, our gi 5 star is definitely a lot smaller than field grade, I will prob have this problem running it, I’m not sure. I’m also using the CCM barrel with inserts on my stock class no spring pheed. I think CCM made these barrels or deadly wind?

And the part where I chopped 4 balls was with an open class body

[InfamousCesar]

[Socalpumpballer]

Biggest issue with the phantom is the size of the breach vs modern paint. Lots of ways to slice paint due to the ball stack The ccm barrel shouldnt be an issue unless you’re severely under boring.

[SignOfZeta]

Thanks for all the advice guys. kind of figured the brass was just for aesthetic.

I currently have 2 phantoms one over barrel and one under cocking with the spring feed. Both ASP detents, with stock silver springs. I didn’t bother trying 5 star because I tried my buddy’s phantom 2.0 and it was just awful with 5 star paint, balls flying and broken balls made it a complete mess. And also broke 4 balls rapid firing. We’ve also bored the barrel and tuned to shoot 280fps, was still breaking balls and flying everywhere. After that I never ran 5 star in a phantom but now I want to revisit it.

I just tuned my vasa stock class phantom, everything looks to be in good order, so I will try out G.I 5 star this Weeknd with 12gs.

This seems so wrong. You’re breaking way too much paint.

Phantoms are not problematic guns. At all. They are in fact very forgiving. I break a ball in a Phantom maybe once a year and I autotrigger the F out of the things.

CO2/HPA is irrelevant. Rate of fire is irrelevant. The worst thing a Phantom should ever do is roll out.

Either the paint is pre-broke, the gun is broke, or you’re chopping the rounds manually.

[SignOfZeta]

The 2.0 valve needs to be bored out. It lacks the volume needed. You need to drill it out to the specs of a standard valve. Lots of people are drilling straight through and adding a gage. I stopped approximately 1/4” before it poked through so its all hidden. There is a thread on it. We ended up figuring out how to fix them no thanks to extreme.

The 2.0 valve hard on paint due to the massive amount of spring you need to operate that valve with nothing behind it. They also choke on 12g if you don’t pump and shoot right away before the valve overpresurize. Because there is no room for the co2 to expand.

If you are getting rollouts go up a size or harder duro on your ASP detent orings and overbore. Today’s paint isn’t consistent enough to bore match anymore. It’s the inconsistency in size that is giving you issues. Not because the marker is hard on paint. I can shoot 5 star with mine even in down into the colder temps without issues using this method.

Zetta had issues with his 2.0 body he got it from extreme likely with too small or too soft orings. so they may be sending the bodies out with improper orings. Zetta couldn’t figuring it out.

I have had 5 or so done by ASP with zero issues it’s my favorite mod.

I eventually got the 2.0 body to work…mostly. It drops maybe 1 one out of 10 rounds. By that time I had already spent way too much time on money on something that still didn't work as well as tape so I just went back to tape. Eventually the specific o-ring I eventually found will shrink or get hard or change in some other way forcing me to go through the process again. I’m just going to go with tape.

I sort of doubt that the ASP mod is as great as people say it is. It’s such a tiny little bump in there and paint is less perfectly round every day. There’s always going to be a more than %0 chance that the edge of the o-ring lines up with a dimple letting the round roll right by.

It seems like everyone using the 2.0 also uses freaks which combined has at least twice the odds of stopping egg shaped paint from rolling out. If someone with no freaks and an ASP barrel can cock their gun and point it at the ground confidently with zero concern for the ball rolling out I’d like to hear from them.

[JeeperCreeper]

SignOfZeta Ill do you one better and have no barrel.

https://youtube.com/shorts/DAEhGishN...t8wtlxlL6ClB8P

I also use Freak inserts, but its for the efficiency gains. My Phantom doesnt allow rollouts, and I cant remember the last time it broke paint either.

[NONOBLITUS]

Yea zero rollouts at all without barrel on one of those bodies and heck we actually play with these Phantoms all the time

[flyweightnate]

InfamousCesar I think the extra- small paint is the issue. The lower it sits in the breech, the more of the next ball that presents to the bolt face.

I have an 007 where the front of the bolt is ground into a ramp. Extreme but effective.

[Chuck E Ducky]

That don’t cause it to clip more?

[flyweightnate]

The idea is to gently push the next ball back up, instead of it getting stuck between the front lip and front of the feed hole. Honestly, not enough rounds through this one to know. I don't have a ton of issues regardless so 0 minus 0...