Tippmann 68 Carbine Velocity Issues

[Cunha]

The biggest advantage I see in the 98 + is that the triggers got better. The 98 and 98 custom had really good trigger pulls for out of the box sear trippers. The carbine series were a bit more crunchy and not just because they were mostly single triggers.

People that have spent more time with them, how do you like the pro carbine feed system with the shroud integrated vs the 68 carbine system?

[Meleager7]

The biggest advantage I see in the 98 + is that the triggers got better. The 98 and 98 custom had really good trigger pulls for out of the box sear trippers. The carbine series were a bit more crunchy and not just because they were mostly single triggers.

People that have spent more time with them, how do you like the pro carbine feed system with the shroud integrated vs the 68 carbine system?

The 68 Carbine feedneck was more solid on the gun. the Shroud Feedneck from the pro am / pro lite / pro carb can tend to have wobble, which you really notice with a loader on the gun. But it can be fixed by building up the gap between shroud and body with extra material. I used metal foil duct tape on my pro carb to get rid of any wobbling.

One other difference I noticed now that these many years have passed is that 68-Carbine Feednecks either were prone to breaking, or were easily lost...because i have seen countless examples of 68 Carbines being sold, and missing that feedneck! i'm not entirely sure of the story here, but my feedneck was absolutely solid the couple years I had my 68-carbine, it held up fine.

[Chappy]

Procarb all day long. Some of them have a bit of wobble as mentioned but I have never thought of it while playing a game. And if it really does bother you it can be mitigated.

[Gradyfest]

So the only way you can really play and not worry about your loader falling off is with a 68 Carbine is the metal feedneck. Well, there was one day I played all day with the plastic one, but I had to be conscious of it and could not tilt the gun to the left at all until the loader was like 1/4 full. But then another problem with the metal one besides the weight, (HEAVY) is you have to have just the right hopper. The metal ones do not compress what so ever. The tightening screw on it is almost literally there for looks. You really have to have that little metal “sawtooth“ piece on it to work.

Not all my Pro Carbines are loose at the forward grip and feedneck. Some more than others. But it’s not a big deal at all. It reminds me of M16s and M4s in the Marine Corps. The lower and upper receivers in the military are loose just like that, lol. You don’t notice it after a while, and it doesn’t affect function.

[Axel]

A little judicious electrical tape fixes this all up

[Myrkul]

Update:

After getting to the field and chronoing, I still had to use the red spring to get it up to 285, but it did get there! I played most of the day with it and it rocked! I'm not quite satisfied using the red spring so I'll keep tinkering with it and will report back if I figure out why this one is so stubborn.

[glaman5266]

What gas were you using? Did you remove the x-chamber or keep it on? Just curious.

[Myrkul]

I kept the expansion chamber since it didn't seem to effect things. I used both HPA & Co2. HPA was about 15-20 FPS faster so I used that to play.

When I REALLY hammered the trigger one round the hammer failed to catch once, but that's probably the heavy as hell drive spring I have in it.

I managed to find a blue aluminum front bolt on ebay. I figured since it's a known wear point I might as well replace it with something more durable. If that doesn't work I'm going to swap valve bodies with the spare beat to death one I have.

I had zero issues with the feed neck.