Hammer skips over sear intermittently.

[Jordan]

I've got an issue with my hammer skipping over the sear every second shot.

First shot is fine, second results in a ball loaded but no shot. You can hear the hammer skip.

Do I need to adjust the lug length? It fires halfway through the trigger pull.

Do I need a stiffer sear spring?

Do I tweak the timing rod?

It's a midblock. I'm using an ID sled, bolt and hammer. ACP roller sear and pre98 trigger plate. Benchie clone slider.

This problem plagued my Trilly midblock build. I seem to have lost my touch with Cockers but I'd lile to get this thing operational.

[Socalpumpballer]

Why not just lower the lug? But also could be the sled not traveling far enough back. Back out a thread somewhere on your pump rod

[Hellion360]

Assuming it is timed properly...

Try a slightly heavier sear spring.
Unless something is worn out, you either need to lower the lug or raise the spring tension on the sear. Or lower the spring tension on the hammer I guess.

[WORR13]

focus on your trigger pull and release and see if that makes a difference. ive found as i have gotten older and more beat up i short stroke more. does the trigger plate have a hole or slot? with your firing 1/2 through the pull should be more than enough on lug adjustment. a heavier sear spring may help. also where does the hammer set when cocking manually? at end of sled travel?

[Jordan]

focus on your trigger pull and release and see if that makes a difference. ive found as i have gotten older and more beat up i short stroke more. does the trigger plate have a hole or slot? with your firing 1/2 through the pull should be more than enough on lug adjustment. a heavier sear spring may help. also where does the hammer set when cocking manually? at end of sled travel?

Sled travel has about 1/8" of travel past where the hammer sits when cocked. The bolt just clears the feedneck when cocked.

Trigger plate is not slotted.

Happens regardless of trigger pull speed. It only happens with paint, it dryfires fine.

[Socalpumpballer]

The trigger plate not being slotted in combination with the inception designs half block hammer is probably the issue. Too small of a timing window due to lack of trigger travel plus the inception hammer I believe has a slightly longer than normal slot which changes the cocking position that’s supposed to allow more time for the ball to drop into the breach.

[Jordan]

Why not just lower the lug? But also could be the sled not traveling far enough back. Back out a thread somewhere on your pump rod

Sled travels far enough, the bolt is 1/8" past the feedneck at the end of the travel.

Lowering the lug would push the release point past halfway, which I suppose could work but I'm also trying to reduce blowback through the feedneck.

[Cdn_Cuda]

Is your valve retention screw flush to the bottom of the body? I had an issue with a cocker body
with slider frame where the frame did not sit flush and caused cocking issues, if I remember correctly. Swing frames usually have a hole for the valve retention screw so not an issue with those.

[Jordan]

Is your valve retention screw flush to the bottom of the body? I had an issue with a cocker body
with slider frame where the frame did not sit flush and caused cocking issues, if I remember correctly. Swing frames usually have a hole for the valve retention screw so not an issue with those.

Flush, yes.

[Ecapnation]

Wag here.....

Are you using a later shocktech roller sear?

I had the same thing going on in one of my builds and it ended up being the steel part of the seat cracked enough that the hammer would fall off premature in the timing cycle

[Jordan]

Wag here.....

Are you using a later shocktech roller sear?

I had the same thing going on in one of my builds and it ended up being the steel part of the seat cracked enough that the hammer would fall off premature in the timing cycle

No, just a Autocockerparts.com roller sear and trigger plate.

[BrendanB]

Some things to try:
Try lowering your lug a quarter of a turn
Try a slightly stiffer sear spring
Try a slightly lower spring set for both valve and hammer
Make sure your LPR is not blowing your block “way past’ your sear/lug cocking point

[Jordan]

I'm off today, and my last boxes of parts have arrived so I tackled this thing this morning.

Two things I've done that seem to make a difference:

1.) Cleaned and lubed the frame internals. There was some old grease gunked in there from it's previous life as a pump frame and I think it might have slowed the trigger plate return. I also tweaked the sear spring - it was pretty stiff anyways so I adjusted it a little and made sure it was sitting in it's groove correctly.

2.) Bumped the LPR up. Every other cycle or so the ram wouldn't quite cycle all the way back unless you held the trigger back longer than normal. Tweaking the pressure up serms to have helped that. I don't know if the ram might be an issue - I rebuilt it but it's not the best ram in the world so it may get replaced at some point.


I also had to change out the front bolt oring because it started bunching up and getting caught at the edge of the feedneck.

I ran 20 or 30 shots through it with no issues so I think it's probably ready for a field test at some point.