Autococker guru needed 😁

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  • XEMON
    Frenchy is here!
    • Jul 2020
    • 3029
    • Nor Cal

    #1

    Autococker guru needed 😁

    Hello y'all,

    I am trying to tune a pre-2K autococker and I'm having some issues I've never had before on other autococker ...

    The marker:
    Pre-2K custom milled cocker with slider frame

    The problem:
    The back block return to the forward position before the trigger plate is in place to catch the bolt ...

    No matter what adjustment I did to the hammer pin and/or the 3-way connector rod length I never got it to cycle properly 😑
    I got it to release the hammer at the right time on the trigger pull, but I have to manually pull the hammer back.

    I'm at the place of considering elongating the slot on the trigger plate, but it's not something I've seen done before so I want to make sure I'm not missing something obvious 😅

    Thanks,
    X
    Love my brass ... Love my SSR ... Hard choices ...

    XEMON's phantom double sided feed
    Keep your ATS going: Project rATS 2.0
    My Feedback
  • warbosschoppa
    Certified Post Whore
    • Apr 2021
    • 576
    • Masshole

    #2
    "I got it to release the hammer at the right time on the trigger pull, but I have to manually pull the hammer back."

    Cocking rod is not set at the right point, bring it closer inwards.

    Comment


    • Cdn_Cuda
      Cdn_Cuda commented
      Editing a comment
      XEMON you need to play with your cocking rod more!

    • XEMON
      XEMON commented
      Editing a comment
      Always!
      🤣
  • XEMON
    Frenchy is here!
    • Jul 2020
    • 3029
    • Nor Cal

    #3
    I've shortened it some, but we're at the point where the bolt stick into the breach ...

    It's a pre-threaded IVG is that matters

    Love my brass ... Love my SSR ... Hard choices ...

    XEMON's phantom double sided feed
    Keep your ATS going: Project rATS 2.0
    My Feedback

    Comment


    • warbosschoppa
      warbosschoppa commented
      Editing a comment
      are you sure you have a pre2k back block and pre2k bolt?
  • $L!mBo
    in the paint
    • Oct 2020
    • 1339
    • Taylorsville, MD

    #4
    is your:

    hammer in backwards?

    sear pin in the wrong hole?

    trigger plate correct for sear compatibility?
    WELTHOUSE x Timberghosts

    my feedback
    https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/b...l-mbo-feedback

    Comment


    • XEMON
      XEMON commented
      Editing a comment
      Those are good questions
      I got it that way so I assume it's good ... But who knows 😜
  • The Inflicted
    pǝʇɔᴉlɟuI ǝɥʇ
    • Jul 2020
    • 1510

    #5
    Whenever I've timed older 'cockers I've always been surprised at how far in the hammer lug needs to be set to ensure it's reliably caught during the return stroke.

    Comment

    • Trbo323
      MCB Member
      • Jul 2020
      • 6358
      • Vancouver WA

      #6
      Pictures might help

      Is the body of the 3 way screwed all the way into the front block?

      I'd start with adjusting the lug down more so you can move the timing a bit more forward

      Sent from my motorola edge 2024 using Tapatalk

      I use Tapatalk which does NOT display comments. If you want me to see it, make it a post not a comment.

      Feedback
      https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/b...323-s-feedback

      Comment

      • XEMON
        Frenchy is here!
        • Jul 2020
        • 3029
        • Nor Cal

        #7
        This is the setup is came with.
        I did found the valve retaining screw was rubbing on the slider and binding. Shortened it out to put it out of the way. The trigger is a bit smoother, but still has the same timing behaviour.

        Here are the plates in the trigger frame
        Attached Files
        Love my brass ... Love my SSR ... Hard choices ...

        XEMON's phantom double sided feed
        Keep your ATS going: Project rATS 2.0
        My Feedback

        Comment

        • Ecapnation
          MCB Member
          • Jul 2020
          • 4210
          • South Central Long Island

          #8
          What is with the brass hex on the bottom of the three-way?

          If someone put a jam nut between the three-way in the front block things aren't going to line up correctly and it might just be that much out of time

          Comment


          • XEMON
            XEMON commented
            Editing a comment
            Not sure, I thought is was to have the barb pointing in the proper orientation 😅
            It was on there when I got it ... So I left it.
            But I have enough travel on the connection between the piston and the connectors rod to compensate for it.
            To tight (connector too short) and the ram never move, and too fat back (connector too long) and the ram never closes ...
            I'll remove it and see if that does it 👍
        • Trbo323
          MCB Member
          • Jul 2020
          • 6358
          • Vancouver WA

          #9
          Originally posted by Ecapnation
          What is with the brass hex on the bottom of the three-way?

          If someone put a jam nut between the three-way in the front block things aren't going to line up correctly and it might just be that much out of time
          I noticed that as well and was wondering the same thing

          Sent from my motorola edge 2024 using Tapatalk

          I use Tapatalk which does NOT display comments. If you want me to see it, make it a post not a comment.

          Feedback
          https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/b...323-s-feedback

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