Odd issue with X-Valve

[PlawB]

I need some help with my X-Valve.

When the thing shoots, it shoots very well. But the issue I have with is that sometimes the trigger rod will just not reset. This usually happens when I'm shooting fast or when I short stroke. The darn rod will just not pop out enough to activate with the trigger. The only thing that I can do at that point is to turn the on/off off, then on. That usually resets the trigger rod. The only other bit of information that I notice is that the valve seems to slightly unscrew itself when I'm shooting.

The valve was rebuilt twice with official AGD kits, and every o ring was changed.

[jpdgas]

I have this exact issue and I'm still trying to track down the cause. This weekend I'm going to be swapping every part of the gun one at a time to see if there is something out of spec (sear, body, rail, frame, trigger). I'll let you know what I find if anything.

Is the rest of the gun all AGD parts or are there any aftermarket bits?

[jpdgas]

I couldn't get it to fail on the bench, but every time I field it I have this issue. The troubleshooting continues...

[Bulldogr6]

Mine will do this if I have the takedown screw too tight. I figured it was just some stacking tolerance issue having all parts from different eras. I figure some creative shimming under the valve would probably cure it but as long as it's just barely snug or less it seems to work ok.

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[Maxwell]

I had this exact same issue with a previously working classic valve this week. It would sometimes do a super delayed reset but cycling the on/off was the only way I could fix it for sure.

I oiled it up some more and remembered I was supposed to change my bolt spring a while ago, so I did that and off she went. I'm not sure if it was the oil or the spring.

[Trbo323]

I have this issue sometimes as well. Best I've been able to figure so far it's the o rings in the on/off sticking on the on/off pin

Haven't had the time to really confirm it though

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[StaticShocked]

Trbo323, that makes the most sense with the symptoms i am seeing. Mine will reset the trigger, and have tension pushing the tigger out, but the bolt chamber does not refill. Only after i compress the trigger and let it reset by sliding my finger to the side causing the trigger to rapidly reset, does the on/off sometimes allow the bolt chamber to refill (and then the bolt gets tight against the sear where it previously was not). It will then fire once normally before the whole process has to start over. So very bizarre. Wait, aren't the orings for the on/off captured between the on/off housing and the valve body and cannot move?

[Trbo323]

Trbo323, that makes the most sense with the symptoms i am seeing. Mine will reset the trigger, and have tension pushing the tigger out, but the bolt chamber does not refill. Only after i compress the trigger and let it reset by sliding my finger to the side causing the trigger to rapidly reset, does the on/off sometimes allow the bolt chamber to refill (and then the bolt gets tight against the sear where it previously was not). It will then fire once normally before the whole process has to start over. So very bizarre. Wait, aren't the orings for the on/off captured between the on/off housing and the valve body and cannot move?

Yes? Which on off are you using?

And yeah I've seen the save things. When I allow the trigger to "spring" forward it helps it reset.

I have a agd rebuild kit in it but I'm wondering if I should swap the poly rings for buna and see if anything changes

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[nak81783]

1. Use gold bolt spring
2. Use loosest Level 10 carrier that doesn’t leak.
3. Snug frame and field strip screws with a wrench. You may need to play with the torque on the field strip screw for proper alignment. Best way to get the feel is to try different torques with a single carrier. If you can get the bolt to leak (too loose), and then not leak (just right), and then maybe leak again (too tight), the just right torque is what you need for proper alignment. You can spend a lot of time and frustration chasing step 2 if you’re not torquing the screws the same every time you try a different carrier.
4. Use RT on/off. Get rid of ULT, if equipped.
5. I believe AGD uses CAST urethane 90 durometer orings. I haven’t had much luck with these for years, even from a non-AGD source. CAST last a long time, but they also take a long time to break in. You’ll have the issues described until they break in. I’ve had much better luck with MILLABLE GUM urethane 90 durometer orings from theoringstore.com They require almost no break in, are a fraction of the cost of CAST, and they still have good life. Buna 90 durometer might work, but they won’t last as long. They’re cheaper per piece, but minimum order quantity is usually quite high. I wouldn’t use standard Buna 70. Personally, I would avoid Buna altogether.

1 and 2 should work for most field and mid-level paints, provided your hopper is adequate for your bps. If you need the Level 10 softer on paint (e.g., tournament paint), you’ll likely need to trim the red bolt spring. Put trim end touching bolt (toward back of marker). The goal is to get the marker to just start firing/cycling reliably 30-50 fps BELOW your desired fps. Do not use tighter carriers to make it softer on paint; this is not a reliable method to make it softer on paint (lube- and weather-sensitive). Also, no shims unless it doesn’t vent when it hits an obstruction; use a barrel swab for testing, not your finger.

Also, some newer, “standard” pressure tanks are 550psi output, which is low for an Automag. Best to start around 800ish psi, and only reduce after you have everything else figured out.