Need a bit of help with a mq valve

[Kidboome]

So i just got a mq1 valve the silver one with a utb bord but when I went to test the silonoid it wasn't clicking at all when I would hold it i could feel it doing something but it wasn't clicking so I took it apart to clean it and make sure ther was no dirt in it stopping it from moving ore enything ther wasn't so i decided to test it without the top on the silonoid the part with the hole in it fore air to go trough and it seems to work fine like that but when I go to put it back together it stops working almost instantly when I put the grub screw in and it makes contact with the body of the silonoid im using a brand new 9v so its not power I've tested it with both a e2 eblade bord and a utb bord it happens the same on both im not very experienced with mq valves is my silonoid dead ore am I doing something wrong ore dose is jist need to be in a gun and have air on the valve side im at my whits end with it I spent almost $400 fore it and cant seam to get it to work other than it not working it looks to be in good shape

[Trbo323]

Needs air. All they are is a pilot valve so it needs the air to actually move it.

I have a mq2 and mine needs to "warm up" before it's ready for play. If I plug air into the marker I have to try and cycle it a good 20-30 times before the mq2 will actually start moving and passing air down the barrel. I learned the hard way to do this without paint because otherwise I end up with those 20-30 balls all coming out of the barrel before one actually fires from the breach

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[flyweightnate]

Ok, a few things.

The solenoid doesn't need to "click" necessarily. It's a little bit different design, where it "lifts" to open a vent.

Get a good grease and lightly grease all the seals so they move freely. Inspect the urethane "dot" on the end of the solenoid for nicks or tears. This has to securely press against the back of the valve to keep the vent closed.

The grub screw through the bottom of the body can be installed too tightly. Make sure it keeps the valve in place, but do not crank on it. I've heard of some being so tight it dents the valve.

Adjust your pressure until the valve start leaking, then lower it until the leak stops. This should be right-ish. Way less pressure than a standard valve. Then, powering on (5ms SON comes to mind, but check that) should pull the solenoid back, lifting the "dot" off the vent, allowing the air to push the MQ poppet open. Once the solenoid powers down, the spring pushes it closed against the vent again, and the air pressure builds until the poppet slides forward again to close.

If you can't get to velocity, the usual problem is not enough volume up front. A Mitey-Max or larger reg top are good ideas. DocFire sells pistons for common regs that flow a little faster, too - those might work. I haven't looked at the timing closely for an MQ but he has some interesting pressure plots that suggest they respond quickly enough to make a difference for a normal valve.


For a "bench" test, the only thing you'll see is the core of the solenoid wiggle back. Try it without the spring if you're looking for a "click".

[Kidboome]

Ok thank you guys this helps a lot