I am thinking of getting a 3d print pen to make my parts. What is the best 3d pen out there that can do mutliple types of print material?
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I feel like a pen is a terrible method for making anything of actual structural value. I have a print pen, just a sharper image one, but unless you are super patient, its worthless. I made a ghetto Ifiel tower with mine and thats about all I think I could make. -
Building off what BrickHaus already stated, I don't think a print pen is the correct tool for what you're looking to accomplish. You won't be able to get dimensional accuracy with anything free-handed if you're looking to make functional parts. Print pens are more suited towards making three-dimensional art pieces; perhaps quick prototyping at the most.
You would be more in the market for an FDM 3D printer. With that, you can download 3D models of your part, design them yourself in CAD, or 3D scan existing parts and reproduce them.
If you're looking to print in more durable materials, like ABS or ASA, it's recommended you look into either a printer that already features an enclosure for the printed part, or an enclosure for the printer. Those materials can be quite sensitive to ambient temperature and humidity that the enclosure helps keep things consistent. Ventilation is also a consideration for those materials.Comment
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Behold. My greatest print pen creation. It took my like 4 hours too.Comment
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Just bite the bullet it’s worth every penny. You can get a P1S for like $399 now. AMS is a nice addition if you want multi color prints I love mine.
https://bambulab.com/enComment
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I want to kick off of what chuck said. The p1s is the printer I want ams makes multi filament prints a breeze, though the pooping nozzel clear between colors gets wasteful. The other dlcritique I have is the p1s doesn't print tpu well. I print a ton out of tpu. Sheridan face seals, reg seats, insert cases, grips. I prefer printing tpu stuff over all other materials, and much to my surprise, it is said that the p1s isn't great at it.
That bring said I have a highly modified pair of ender 3s. They get the job done most of the time. And my printer with a biqu h2 head on it prints tpu like a champ. For like 100 bucks you can het an old printer, and they will work.
A huge thing is the orca slicer software. I've banged my head on the wall with failed prints trying creality, pursa, and other slicer programs. I finally downloaded orca and after I had the machine profiles set up I can hit print and walk away most of the time.Comment
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TPU prints best slowly, with careful attention to drying, feeding, retraction, and speed limits to avoid stringing, under-extrusion, jams, or poor layer adhesion. Stock settings are fast if you slow it down you will have much better results.
Always dry the filament first TPU is highly hygroscopic.
Do not use the AMS for TPU (it often causes feeding issues due to flexibility)
Using their TPU High-Flow nozzle gives better results for most TPU, especially soft grades.
I use paper glue stick for bed adhesion and it works marvelous. Wet a clean sponge glue stick on the sponge wipe the plate and let er rip. -
See, that bums me out cuz I really dreamed of printing things like freedummy detents with petg rims, and tpu fingers, and I really thought the ams was the ticket.
I honestly dont do enough drying, but my e3 with the biqu still seems to lay it down fine. But I have a tiny print area, and its slow for sure. I need to upgrade myself. Issue is I have 3 expensive hobbies. Paintball, mtb, and 3d printing. As long as I dont have a catastrophic failure on one of my printers, I keep hemorrhaging money on ball and mtb before I can stack enough to buy a printer.
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