Valve stuck in autococker body

[Chungaze]

Hey yall

I've been working on resurrecting my old System X Vengeance Pro 2.0. I've had numerous roadblocks caused by the manufacturer's use of Red Loctite on just about everything, and removing the valve has proved impossible. I'd emptied out the whole body, except for the valve and nut assembly. I bought a WGP valve tool, but the tip of it ended up breaking trying to remove the dang thing; the broken tip still stuck down at the bottom of the valve assembly. I took it to a friend with an amply supplied tool shed, but even he was unable to get it to budge. The valve nut assembly looks to be stripped, so I don't know what to do at this point.

I'm trying to see what my options are. I know its flawed, but I really like the System X body and silver to red anno, so I'd like to keep it if its possible to somehow drill it or something to get the valve out?. If not, or if its much cheaper, I was going to buy another cocker body on ebay. I've got a full set of Inception pneumatics and pump arm, a new front block, a 9/16 and 11/16 rat valve (I ordered both by accident bc I am a fool), and even another inline reg I can use if I need to, so buying a new body might be easiest?

And shoot, if I'd known about this site a month ago, I'd have come here to ask before trying to do everything myself.

Attaching some pictures so you can see the damage T_T

[DocsMachine]

I'll just leave this here.

(I still have the tool, by the way. It's come in handy a few times.)

Doc.

[Chungaze]

WOOOAH this is exactly what i need! pming you

[RedLeaderSB]

Incredible

[XEMON]

That sucks 😞

Are you able to remove the broken tool?
If you have access to a shop, making a custom tool, jam it in the nut and putting some heat on it might get it free, but the jewel might not make it ...

Edit: never mind, DocsMachine got you covered 👍

[TencenT]

I made my own a decade ago with some threaded rod and a union nut. Vastly stronger than the cheap ones they sell that broke on you. Here is a good guide to give you an idea, you dont need to do any welding, just get threaded rod from the same aisle that union nut is on and hand bend it.

https://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=3442542

Also fwiw, most bit drivers use 5/16 allen holes so if you have a long enough driver all you need is that union nut drilled out and you can just put it into your screw driver to help you get a bit more torque.

[Aididas78]

Has anyone tried to drill the whole lower tube 11/16 in these circumstances? If you have a good drill bit I don’t see why it wouldn’t work and you could go with a Laz valve or an Attktx cage for the lower tube.

[Ecapnation]

Has anyone tried to drill the whole lower tube 11/16 in these circumstances? If you have a good drill bit I don’t see why it wouldn’t work and you could go with a Laz valve or an Attktx cage for the lower tube.

Drilling through dissimilar metals will be a freaking nightmare. Doable but not easy nor likely to stay straight

[Aididas78]

Yeah for sure..the way I was thinking of doing it to make it somewhat doable was to start from the front of the body. If you start drilling from the banjo bolt until you reach the spring perch and once you’re open there you can drop the spring, valve stem, and valve body out. You can use a small punch and tap out the valve through the bottom of the body where the set screw is and all that should be left is the jam nut. Then I’d knock out what’s left of the broken tool in the jam nut with a long punch and all that’s left is the nut. After that put some heat on the nut where the hammer lug slot is and you could get a long allen key and loosen out the jam nut and finish drilling her out. It’s a lot of work ha ha but if there’s a will there is a way.

[DocsMachine]

Done! Having the right tool for the job makes this fairly easy...



Although I will say this one was a bit tougher. I'd made up a couple of pins out of TIG rod, so I wouldn't have to use the drills themselves for the drivers, and those have worked plenty of times over the years.

This one resisted a bit more.



Fortunately I had some tougher music wire the right size (admittedly TIG rod is pretty soft steel) and made a couple new pins.

A good dose of heat, a little back-and-forth, some WD-40 and finally got 'er out.





Note the cup seal, which is literally cracked in half. Pretty sure I didn't do that.

And, of course, the bore and threads are still untouched and undamaged.



Done and ready to head home!





Doc.

[Chungaze]

Doc, you are a wizard and a saint. Thanks so much!