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Tippmann ProLite - hard to cock, but cycles fine

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    Tippmann ProLite - hard to cock, but cycles fine

    My father-in-law brought me an old Pro-Lite that had been sitting for who knows how long in a friend’s closet. I pulled it apart and replaced the front bolt oring, but otherwise it seems fine (although the spring has a few wobbles in it...)

    I reassembled it without the detent (it doesn’t spring up anymore), lubed it, and aired up on CO2. No leaks. It is REALLY hard to cock initially but cycles fine after that. Is this normal? Or is something wrong with it that I can’t see? I didn’t pull the valve body out, so it could be something there.

    This is my first Pro-Lite. None of my T98s have ever given me this issue, but then again they use power tubes and it doesn’t look like the Pro-Lite has one - it’s just the main body/tube.
    Originally posted by Chuck E Ducky:
    “You don’t need a safety keep your booger hook on the bang switch.​“

    #2
    I don't think it should be REALLY hard to cock. Did you pull the hammer and guts out and make sure it was clean and decent in there?

    Comment


      #3
      I pulled and cleaned all internals but the valve. I’ll disassemble it again tonight and take the valve out as well to see if I missed something.
      Originally posted by Chuck E Ducky:
      “You don’t need a safety keep your booger hook on the bang switch.​“

      Comment


        #4
        Or maybe just skip trying to fix, and instead invest in one of these?



         
        '96 RF Mini Cocker, '95 RF Autococker, 68-Automag Classic, Banzai Splash Minimag, Gen-E Matrix, Shoebox Shocker 4x4, Montneel Z-1, Tippmann Pro-Carbine, Tippmann Mini-Lite, Tippmann Model-98, Tippmann 68-Special, Spyder .50 cal Opus/Opus-A , Tippmann .50 Cal Cronus , Gog Enmey .50 cal , Tippmann Vert ASA 68-Carbine, Bob Long Millennium, ICD Grey Green Marble Splash Alleycat Deluxe (runs liquid co2) , Halfblock 2K4 Prostock Autococker , 2K RF Sniper II

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        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Meleager7 View Post
          Or maybe just skip trying to fix, and instead invest in one of these?


          I don’t see a link or pic - is it just me?

          I did figure out the problem though. The barrel is 3rd party and the front bolt gets wedged in the barrel just a tad when in the forward position. I’d either have to shave down the outer edge of the front of the bolt (probably what I’ll do) or buy a stock barrel. I’m not all that keen on opening up the barrel more - I don’t have the tools. But at least I learned how to disassemble it.



          I followed this video because I couldn’t get the valve out on my own. He did blow past taking out the little retaining plate that holds it in - it’s under one of the posts that the grip frame screws use to secure the frame to the body. Easy to miss.
          Originally posted by Chuck E Ducky:
          “You don’t need a safety keep your booger hook on the bang switch.​“

          Comment


          #6
          It’s possible the oring on the bolt is swollen. I wish there was a delrin option without the oring

          Comment


            #7
            Not likely - i just replaced it.

            Interesting that there’s no oring on the barrel though and no groove for one. I found that odd.

            Originally posted by Chuck E Ducky:
            “You don’t need a safety keep your booger hook on the bang switch.​“

            Comment


              #8
              Just an update - sanding down the bolt lip that’s forward of the oring did the trick. Much easier to get the gun cocked. I’m not sure what the ID of the barrel is, but it must be a pretty tight bore.
              Originally posted by Chuck E Ducky:
              “You don’t need a safety keep your booger hook on the bang switch.​“

              Comment


                #9
                Originally posted by lhamilton1807 View Post
                Just an update - sanding down the bolt lip that’s forward of the oring did the trick. Much easier to get the gun cocked. I’m not sure what the ID of the barrel is, but it must be a pretty tight bore.
                Difficult to tell the color of the back on the barrel from your picture, but it looks like the lighter gray meaning it should measure ~.686; it's a great barrel. I've got one on my 68 Carbine but I haven't experienced any bolt stick. Glad to hear you've got it fixed.

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