I started to bring down the surface with high grit sandpaper and it’s taking forever. Should I just strip the anodizing off then polish, or try to polish through the surface? Should I get a tumbler/vibrating type polishing setup and toss the frame into and forget about manual labor?
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This isn't something that's going to make sense to invest in if you're only doing it once. To do it right, without messing up every precision feature on the gun, you need to plug every ingress point and mask every precision surface on the exterior. Then you need to tumble in various media to bring the surface finish down low enough that you can buff it. I honestly down know how many tumble polishers and types of media that will take...guessing at least three. And then you need to buff it. I wouldn't even try buffing a marker body without a bench grinder. You really need both hands.
In the end, there will still be defects. If the color you want was factory and you can buy it, I can practically guarantee you it's a better deal. If you want a custom color/design and you want to do it right, you need a raw body kit from the manufacturer. -
It’s an Orracle frame that came with a body kit from AC Parts. The body was pre drilled so I bought a raw body from PB Gateway. I’ll probably just Cerakote it since I’m getting a simple fade finish.Comment
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Only issue is if you Cerakote The raw body it won’t help harden internal channels on a raw body. If it was An already anodized Body I would say go for it. But it’s raw and hasn’t been threw the Harding process.Comment
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The raw body I polished, will ship out for anodizing soon. I’ll probably pick up a raw ID rip frame for my mini Orracle so it will match the fade I want. I’ll Cerakote the frame I’m working on for another project down the road.Comment
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