Thanks for the heads up zinger, I'm gonna grab one.
heck yeah, outkast jewel, a foot of pnue hose, and 3 feet of macro line for 20 bux.
heck yeah, outkast jewel, a foot of pnue hose, and 3 feet of macro line for 20 bux.
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Last edited by FullContactUSA; 08-09-2022, 10:00 AM. -
I love the OG Rotor, only upgrade it needed was a virtue feed arm, it's softer and prevents jams. My go to is the R2, all the benefits of an Rotor but the ease to change from regular lid to a speed feed without needing tools plus it can be a high cap loader with a simple switch.Comment
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Pinokio speed or virtue spire ir2Comment
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When I got back into the game years ago, I really liked my Spire IR. Lowish profile, fed well, never had issues (she's still my backup). Similarly, I really like my CTRL and the ability to change the top shell depending on what I'm doing for the day. Being modular is super nice for any troubleshooting or when you need to clean it.Comment
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The Spire IR and Dye LTR are both excellent values, for sure. But they are both very heavy, with most of the weight being toward the back. The Rotor is the heaviest electronic loader on the market. The Spire IR is a fair bit lighter, but not by much in an on-field situation. If weight is a concern, you have other options.
HK Army Speed is the second lightest electronic loader on the mass market, behind the (now JT) Revolution. It’s fast & the weight of the motor and paint is toward the front, helping to balance out the weight of the tank. The downside, from my experience, is they don’t work well with speed feeds because of the bottom sloping towards the front. The back is shallow, so it’s hard to get the paint past the fingers once you shove a pod in the lid. But if you don’t use speed feeds this is a non-issue.
I still use my X-Boarded Revolution 90% of the time. They keep up just fine for most mechs & are still workhorses.
These days I favor the ProToyz/Planet Eclipse Speedster loader if I want more capacity of if I’m using an electro. They are fast enough for NXL ramp. They are also very durable; there are reasons some fields are using them on their rental markers now. They are “balanced”, able to stand on it’s feedneck with batteries installed. It operates just like a Revolution (infrared eyes), so it’s not very hard on paint. The main downside is they are heavy, second only to the Rotor. But they have the capacity to make up for it. One other downside is if you want a speed feed on it you’ll have to get a 3-D printed adapter to use one. But if you don’t use speed feeds it’s not an issue. This is my favorite hopper ball loader. The price is also very nice at ~$70.
I posted a review for the Speedster in the MCB Reviews It section if you’re interested.Comment
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Brokeass_baller Most weight charts I’ve seen put the IR pretty much in the middle of the pack. The difference isn’t as noticeable between a LTR/R2 and a IR as it is with, say, a HK Speed.
Swiped this graphic from PbN. Granted this doesn't have the Spire IR on it, but I think it's somewhat relevant here.
And there’s this chart on PBRML:
https://www.paintballruinedmylife.co...opper-weights/
The weights from PBRML are without batteries, but note the HK Speed is a whole 100grams lighter than the IR. And the Revolution is lighter than that.
After looking up Lone Wold PB’s numbers they came up with 20 ounces for the LTR, 16 ounces for the Spire 4, 14 ounces for the IR. I’m assuming those are w/o batteries due to the LTR gram-converted weights being lighter than the chart above.
For additional reference, my HK Speed comes in at 12.2 ounces & my old school VL-shelled Revolution comes in at 9.9 ounces. Both without batteries, just now weighed them on a digital food scale.
Basically, all electronic loaders with drive cones are heavier, while impeller-driven ones are not. The IR is a fine loader & light compared to it’s force-fed competition, but it’s a far cry from a Revolution or Speed if weight is a primary concern.
EDIT: There's also the marker & tank weights to consider. Modern spoolers are lighter than ever, making some paintgun/hopper combos very top-heavy. Plus many force-fed hoppers are back-heavy & have different paint capacities, throwing off the front/back balance (depending on tank weight). I loathe the concept of using my LTR on my Emek w/a 45/45K Ninja bottle. It'd probably be fine for speedball (short, small games), but I wouldn't want that for an all-day scenario. So the game type can matter as well.
But it's all preference anyway. And there's a ton of variables that may/may not be applicable depending on what/how you play.
Now I wanna chart all this myself, lol. Kinda sucks having to hunt & peck around the internet for specific numbers. Not that it matters to many people, but weight is a concern of mine considering my build & previous injuries & back issues.Last edited by glaman5266; 08-13-2022, 12:01 PM.Comment
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45s are way too short for me. I actually bought an extender for my 68. Lol. Never noticed that about the Tippmann. I always figured it was a necessity to place them that far forward. The Stingray's feed neck was in the same place, as were the Sheridan XTS (Is that what they were called? I can't remember.)
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I have a Revvy and a Halo 2. The Halo 2 with out of the box settings feeds all my Spyders, FASORS, and my Intimidator without a hiccup.
The Revvy I use with my Autocockers, just cause.
It's mostly a preference thing. I wouldn't say any of them are heavy, but the balance can be different on different markers.Comment
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Picked up an HK speed (non pinokio) recently. Haven't played with it yet, but did shoot it in the backyard. Kept up with my SL74 Ego just fine. Interesting that it uses the "finger" ball detection that Ricochet used to use on their hoppers. It's light, a little odd that the impeller is in the front, and I can see how the speed feed isn't the greatest on these with a shallow "feed" zone.
Not a fan of the clipless 9v connector though, had issues with those in the past. Not a negative, but the feedneck is very large on this one. I had to back out my clamp several turns compared to my prophecy and it was still a push. Also, needed to unscrew one screw to replace lid.
Overall, nice hopper. I like the material and the removable nose cone. Balance is very nice too. It's definitely reminiscent of "an eggy done right", the impeller is almost the exact same.Comment
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You remember how to do the ballwhacker mod on a Revvy by any chance? I want to it to one of mine but can’t remember how to save my life.Originally posted by Chuck E Ducky View PostComment
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Holy cow! Thanks for the link dude. Gonna do this later in the week!Comment
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