Larger Twist-lock detents?

[Sdawg]

I have a minimag that I cannot really use because it double feeds. From what I can tell, the available detents are not able to stop today's smaller paintballs (sub-680) from rolling out of the breech.

Anyone else experienced this problem and/or have a possible solution?


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[dano_____]

Use the wire detents instead of plastic. You can bend them to be a bit smaller. Alternatively you can buy a docs to autococker adapter that use Spyder detents to help with the smaller paint. I usually run a revvy instead of forcefeed hopper on my minimag and it helps to stop rollouts too.

[Toestr]

Wire detent, cocker adapter, or a piece of scotch tape over the nubbin on a plastic detent (my favorite).

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[Hellion360]

There are a few mag barrels that take a pair of detents. That is helpful.
Docs adapter is also an excellent choice.

[Jordan]

I have noticed that some twistlocks are not machined correctly to allow the detent to protrude into the barrel properly - not an issue back in the day, but a problem now.

I have a J&J Ceramic barrel in .688 that I use with a Dye LTR and sub .680 paint without any issues, because the detent slot allows the detent to stick out fully.

[Brokeass_baller]

You can also cut and trim Tippmann detents to work. Keep them in place with a little Scotch tape.

[Hellion360]

Oh, I have never done this. Experiment time.

[Brokeass_baller]

They're the perfect width. You just need to trim in a step at the rear, and then cut down the actual detent part that sits in the barrel. It's a bit of trial and error, but works really well once you get it right.

[Grendel]

Wire detents are the way to go if you are wanting to keep the twist lock barrel. You can bend your own wire detents and exaggerate the triangle at the end to protrude further. Also check the detent channel in the barrel. They are quite often roughly machined and can use a little attention with a deburring tool to allow the detent to sit down further into the channel therefore exposing more of the detent into the barrel.

[MrBarraclough]

Just be careful not to overdo it. I rebent a wire nubbin to protrude further and it got caught by the bolt and bent backwards into the barrel. Of course, I had also given it a few coats of plasti-dip to build up the surface, which probably had something to do with it as well.

[MrBarraclough]

If you have an original AGD wire nubbin handy as a template, you can make your own with a paperclip and some needle nose pliers.

[Grendel]

Yup paper clips will work in a pinch but will not last long. If you want to make your own make sure you get some corrosion resistant spring [steel] wire (24 gauge IIRC). McMaster Carr, Grainger, ...etc. carry it and it is not very expensive. Back when I was playing an Automag all the time I made a tool pin bending jig to make my own. I should have it still in a box somewhere in the shop. I am in the process of organizing my shop if I come around it I'll take some picks and post here.

[Sdawg]

Thanks for all the ideas. I have tried bending wire detents un the last but that just seemed to cause paint to shred on the detent, so I will try the scotch tape trick with plastic detents (if I have any in the AGD parts kit I bought).

[MrBarraclough]

I would be remiss to not point out that, after mucking about with homemade wire nubbins that worked reasonably well for what they are, I ultimately gave up on old twistlock barrels and bought a Doc's adapter. In addition to allowing you to use AC threaded barrels, it uses Spyder/Intimidator style rubber detents. Between that and a force fed hopper, my old mag doesn't chop, even with only a Level 7 bolt. It will shoot small paint all day long.

One caveat is that current tournament grade paint tends to blow up in the barrel due to the mag's relatively high operating pressure. I can shoot D3FY level 1 and 2 without issue, but the tourney grade stuff is just too fragile for a 26 year old Automag.

[Cunha]

I never had problems with large bore barrels and chopping or accuracy.

The problems mentioned relate to double feeds which will cause ball breakage.

I like twist lock barrels myself, and don't see a need to make my mag require more expensive and sought after cocker barrels instead of the very plentiful and affordable mag twist lock barrels.

The one exception would be a centerfeed twist lock body for which barrels are really rare.