Thinking of dipping my toes in...

[zinger565]

Automags have always intrigued me, ever since I started playing around 2002. Never got to try one out though. Now that I'm an adult with an unsupervised salary, I'm thinking of dipping my toes into the automag world. Couple of questions though:

What's a good starting point? Basic automag?

What kind of prices for a basic mag in good condition?

Any reason to skip the basics and go straight for something high-end?

Thanks and I'm looking forward to something new(ish).

[superman]

I suggest doing some research on what exactly you want, how you want it to perform and what your looking to get out of it. Then evaluate if upgrading is the way to go or buying/building is best. I have attached some info that will shed some light on mag stuffs.

[Jordan]

If you're just dipping your toe in, my suggestion would be a basic Classic Mag, with a Cocker thread barrel adapter. Mags get expensive fast.

[Myrkul]

Absolutely this. Classic mags still shoot freaking great. Add a LVL 10 bolt and an RT on/off and they have no trouble keeping up with Emecks. I love both of mine and have never felt the need to go into the expensive side of mags.

[FredMnkyDad10]

I suggest running away right now, dont look back. The thing with getting a classic soon you will be looking to "upgrade" this part and that part. Soon you will have parts enough for 5 mags, they multiple without you even noticing.

Long run you would likely save if you go higher than a basic. That is what I would do if looking to pick one up or parts for one.

Go with Ule body, aluminum frame single or double trigger, emag rail and sear, classic valve, freak cocker barrel and foregrip if you want one. Maybe 300-400 or so for one.

Classic, can do classic body (so many choices on feed), am/mm rail and sear, (shorter than emag), carbon single trigger frame, twist lock barrel or barrel adapter for cocker and classic valve. Maybe between 150-250.

Several ppl on here can help with parts, superman above has all those parts, BrickHaus has some nice ones up for sale and I also have tons of parts.

[zinger565]

Sounds like autocockers, lol

Thanks for the info!

[Memornix]

You take that back

[Alexndl]

I would recommend starting with a quick list of your preference

1- what feed style do you prefer (vert feed, powerfeed left or right, angle feed left or right)?

2- whats your target budget? (150-250, 250-350, 350++)

3- do you prefer single finger trigger or double?

4- do you want a semi, RT, Pneumag (walkable mech) or electronic

I have some mag option for you depending on your preference

[zinger565]

Would prefer vert feed, but can make anything work.

250-350

Single preferred, double is fine

Semi probably, rt would be fun though

[FredMnkyDad10]

Then you want a center feed ule body.

RT you might want to check your local fields on ROF. My understanding most fields now days limit that. So having and paying for RT might be a waste if you cannot use it fully.

Oh pneumag mechs are soooo much fun and so many options on frames. From ego (I have a few), intelli, Luke's customs.

[Drachen]

I saw on the discord you already got a mag, so this is probably too late. But don't sleep on the stock carbon fiber single finger frames. I have a couple aluminum frames that are fine, but those stock frames with the rubber finger grips just fit my hand perfectly. The thin plastic panels are decent too though.

[zinger565]

So, I've skipped the toes amd taken a full dive, however a question came up this week that I didn't have an answer for:

If you upgrade a classic or MiniMag valve with a lvl10 and RT on/off, does the X-Valve still hold any advantages over it?

My only thoughts were the X-Valve would be slightly lighter.

[Jordan]

So, I've skipped the toes amd taken a full dive, however a question came up this week that I didn't have an answer for:

If you upgrade a classic or MiniMag valve with a lvl10 and RT on/off, does the X-Valve still hold any advantages over it?

My only thoughts were the X-Valve would be slightly lighter.

In my opinion - no.

With two caveats - you can put a ULT setup into an Xvalve (which can make the trigger [almost] light enough to become walkable), and an RT effect is possible with an Xvalve with the correct applications of input pressure and on-off pin length.

If you don't care about the above, then the only "disadvantage" is weight. Classic valves are capable of 10-12 bps without recharge issues, well within anybody's trigger abilities.