Mag Help - leaks from on/off

[Cdn_Cuda]

After changing over my trigger frame on my Longbow mag I developed a heavy leak from my on/off. I’ve tried drowning it in oil, but no success. Changing between the AGD CF and the AFD Intelliframe make no difference. It’s an X-valve for reference. So questions:

Could misalignment of the seer in the trigger be causing the leak? My sear appears to be flush against the trigger when using the CF frame (my intended frame).

If not, next steps are replacing the orings on the on/off. I’ do have a rebuild kit and figure out each piece in the kit is after some effort. Do the shims in the on/off need to be adjusted at all?

I’ll have more questions as this progresses. Never managed to fix my last mag… but determined to get this one working.

[Jordan]

Leave the shims for now, change the seals. Do you know what type of on-off? IE: RT or ULE? It sounds like you have a ULE since you mentioned shims.

[Cdn_Cuda]

Looks to be a ULE.

To add, despite the leak it cycles and shoots just fine.

Also, what is the trick to adjusting the trigger? Is that sucker red loctited. My front frame screw was, and the the I can’t seem to get the trigger adjustment to budge.

[MrBarraclough]

Trigger rods are set at the factory and then usually loctited in place. If you are going to use the stock CF frame and trigger, then don't screw with the trigger rod. You'll regret it.

If you need to adjust it, hit it with some heat for a moment and the threadlocker should release. I hit mine with a little butane mini torch (heat gun attachment) for a second or two and one tiny wisp of smoke later it was free.

Automag trigger geometry/timing is deceptively simple looking and easier to screw up than you would think.

If you're getting a leak out of your on/off (not down the barrel), that's not a sear position issue; it's a bad o-ring somewhere in the on/off stack.

[Cdn_Cuda]

Thanks, I’ll change the orings first and see how it goes.

[Toestr]

Just get the rod and screw in or out until there is a credit card's width between the rear or the trigger and front of the rod when gassed up and safety on. I usually use vise grips and be gentle so you don't bend the clevis. Mine wasn't loctited but I think I recall reading about at least one instance of this.

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[Cdn_Cuda]

To be safe I’ll hit it with some heat.

[Cdn_Cuda]

New orings in the on/off except for the tiny one on the pin, leaks just as bad. Switch to my SHP tank, no change.

[Jordan]

Any chance it's actually the vent on the valve body? I can't remember where it is on an Xvalve, but if the reg seat is toast it might be leaking from the overpressure relief port.

[Cdn_Cuda]

No idea. I’ve taken everything apart. Valve stem looked fine:

[Cdn_Cuda]

Here’s the On/off:

[Jordan]

My next move would probably be to remove the shims.

[Cdn_Cuda]

I’ll give it a try.

[Cdn_Cuda]

Played with the reg pressure and no change to leak at all either. Very frustrating.

[Cdn_Cuda]

Removing all the shims did stop the leak, but now won’t fire. So I’ll add a shim and test and see if if I can get it to shoot before leaking.

Update:
Add one shim, fires and leaks. Adjusted the velocity, no change. Could it need more shims to stop leaking?! Obviously too many and it won’t fit, but not sure what else to do.

Next udate:
Kept adding shims, makes zero difference to the leak. I’m stumped.

[RAZRBAKK]

I'm not familiar with the X-valve, but I did have a similar issue with two different 68 valves because I put the on-off back in the wrong order.

[Cdn_Cuda]

Looks to only be one way the on/off goes together. Orings fit nice and tight too.

[Jordan]

I wonder if it might be that tiny oring that you didn't change.

[Cdn_Cuda]

Changed the last two o-rings that I hadn’t changed yet. Both were in the power tube.

[Cdn_Cuda]

I think you’re right, Jordan, and it is likely the tiny black o-ring on the pin. Going to need to find a replacement one (or 10) and maybe grab a standard on/off as the ULT’s appear to be troublesome (just spend 30 minutes reading through an Automags.org thread from mid-2000s on the topic)

[Grendel]

I have been given the advice by several Mag aficionados and tuners to steer clear of the ULTs as being a pain to setup and not make that much of a difference. Since I never thought RT on/offs were bad to begin with I just never went down this road.

[Trbo323]

I'm thinking this is something in your valve body either coming through the on/off or somewhere close.

Shims can cause leaks but typically they are not bad and it should change by adding/removing them

Have you gone back to the last good configuration you had before the leak started yet?

Just to try it, do you have any other on/offs you can put in?

If you figure out what that tiny o ring is, I would like to know so I can add some to my kit

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[Cdn_Cuda]

My mag had the ULT on/off in it and I don’t have a standard one. If I can’t source the little o-ring locally I’ll order it for AGD and grab a standard on/off at the same time.