New to automags, just got an eBay rescue

[MrDewtles]

So, I just got an eBay rescue .68 classic for a song. Description says it has been rebuilt and it works. I'll see when it arrives. Not too much info except it has an ANS Venturi bolt.

For starters.... What is the bolt?

I'd like to build it with a RT. Is that possible with what I've got?

I'm also totally cool with keeping it semi. But I had a pipe dream based off of an encounter at a game in the early 2000s

[Ecapnation]

It's an ans venturi bolt, aftermarket and not great.

If you want it RT you'll need to replace the whole valve

[Number six]

Immediadtely noticeable upgrades would be a Doc's barrel adapter and a Level 10 bolt. Do those first, play with it, then decide where to go with it.

[FredMnkyDad10]

Welcome to the family. Sounds like yours will be breeding in no time. I think most will tell you doing RT on classic valve will be pain to dial in. I have not tried it myself. Likely would be easier to get a RT pro valve.

ANS did parts for automags, including stainless and aluminum back and bolts for the valves. No difference on the backs. Some look for the aluminum if they want to have parts anod to match. The ANS bolts is another thing, most say the are crud to get rid of them and get the AGD one.

I just picked up a gold bolt made by ANS. likely wont ever use it.

[Spider!]

Wow, we've lost some good stickies in this sub -forum.

If you want to dig, automags.org still has a pile of info.

The family of RT valves have an extra bypass circuit that is not in the classic valve. There are a variety of creative ways to shoot a classic valve fast, but bouncing the trigger is best left to RT valves.

[FredMnkyDad10]

Another option if you want to use the valve and most parts on the marker. Is doing or getting a pneumag frame. You can do a nice sleeper look, make it look stock. But with a good high pressure tank you would be able to do higher rate of fire.

[MrDewtles]

Thanks for the great replies.

I should also mention that, I like to tinker, but I'm one of those stupid dads, that is involved with his family. So time/effort are fleeting lol.

Im not sure what valve is in it now, but it's entirely possible I'll replace it.

What's the difference between a level 7 and level 5?

Does the level 10 really make a difference? Now good is with gravity feed vs electric hopper?

[Grendel]

Very few Level 5 made it out into the wild. A classic valve will most likely be Level 7. Since you say it has an ANS bolt then it can not be Level 10. Level 10 is a mechanical solution to not chop paint and when set up properly works great.

[MrBarraclough]

Classic valves are incapable of R/T. You'd need an R/T valve, ReTro Valve, Emag, or Xvalve for that. And in this context, "valve" means basically the whole interior assembly. You can have a lot of fun with classic valves, so don't be discouraged. One thing you can do is replace the on/off with an R/T on/off. That will lighten the trigger pull a bit. Short and snappy.

The ANS venturi bolt was, like most aftermarket bolts of its time, more of a gimmick than anything useful. I ran one myself. Didn't really hurt anything back in the day, but with today's smaller paint, you may get some rollback that might make it a little more prone to chops. When I returned to playing from a 20 year hiatus back in 2020, I eventually took out my ANS venturi and put my stock long-nosed Level 7 bolt back in.

You can go full on Level 10 if you want, but I have found that good detents and a force fed hopper with constant pressure (Rotor or Halo Too) is sufficient to eliminate chops with my Level 7 classic valve. I use a Doc's adapter, which lets me not only use AC threaded barrels, but also Spyder/Timmy style rubber finger detents. Adds a bit of heft to the marker, but it's cheaper than buying a ULE body. And I just like the look of my polished Minimag body.

[Spider!]

Oh, most important thing that lingers on old automags, the power feed plug. Does it have a power feed?

That plug was redesigned, but the old ones still show up sometimes. The profile on the old ones had a flat spot that caused trouble.

That and a good detent (maybe from Superman) will render a classic up to date.

[Alexndl]

need a picture of your mag, valve and powerfeed plug



Here is an example of the old vs newer parabolic powerfeed plug
15985820423196813414460554616667_640881231395937(1).jpg

[russc]

I actually have an ANS Phase II venturi in my pistol mag and I've always thought it was a great little piece of kit. Very gentle on paint between the foamie and the diffuser face. If it doesn't have the little foam dot on the front, I could see how that would potentially cause rollback.

[MrBarraclough]

Didn't know the ANS venturis could take foamies, as I never had one on mine. I could see adding one to that little round center post.

[superman]

They had round small foamies. Not the same style as the level 10.

[Spider!]

They lost foamies at least as fast as stock bolts, but if you had not seen one before it's not as obvious that the foamie is missing. They need one, especially now with smaller paint.

[shrompman420]

may god have mercy on your soul sir, i bought i mag one time from a nice old man (Walker), my mom tried to stop me, my friends said "No john dont do it, nothing good will come from this"i just wouldnt listen,now sir, NOW i have 2 rts, a xvalve and a damn emag!,i wouldnt listen, its to late for me buddy, but save yourself, for the love of god save yourself!!!

[Hobbes]

*whispers* x-magggggg.....x-maaaaaaaaaggggg...

[MrDewtles]

Update.

Gun came in the mail, it airs up and shoots alright. The barrel bore is huge lolo.

I had some old paint to throw, and it shot alright. Although the trigger pin was slow to pop out at first. The more I shot the faster it would get. Is that something that gets gunked up? Should I just clean/lube it?

Also I shot at a very casual finger pace and probably.... 20 balls in I already chopped lolo.

[Spider!]

Add oil in the asa and shoot thru without the barrel.

Check the feed plug on that chop. The difference is crazy.

[FredMnkyDad10]

What Spider said. Also check your tank output. Mags are best with at least with 850, 950 if you got fast fingers.

[FredMnkyDad10]

may god have mercy on your soul sir, i bought i mag one time from a nice old man (Walker), my mom tried to stop me, my friends said "No john dont do it, nothing good will come from this"i just wouldnt listen,now sir, NOW i have 2 rts, a xvalve and a damn emag!,i wouldnt listen, its to late for me buddy, but save yourself, for the love of god save yourself!!!

So much truth to this. I have more parts than I know what to do with.

[shrompman420]

So much truth to this. I have more parts than I know what to do with.

got anything for a pump mag "fredmnkydad10" in your parts bin?

[FredMnkyDad10]

I have some classic bodies that are pump milled. May have a rail too.