Automag with no rail using a PE cocker hinge frame question

[tracythompsontampa]

I saw this online but didn't see any how to replies. One mentioned it required minor milling.

Does anyone have any info how this is achieved?

[Jordan]

The frame is cut to fit against the body - a small pocket for the front frame screw boss and a radius across the top to fit the curve of the body - and then a sear pin hole is drilled (in the right spot) for the sear.

You have to get the measurements spot on or nothing works properly.

[superman]

He drilled and tapped the frame for the sear pin and then had to machine the top of the frame for the body mounting tab and modifying the trigger or sear rod.

[automeister]

I would be willing to happily pay for a frame modded like this

[Jimmydee]

That’s nice

[automeister]

Honestly I am a bit surprised you do not see more of these. I feel like a lot of folks on here would gladly pay for a body and frame milled to fit like this.

[tracythompsontampa]

Honestly I am a bit surprised you do not see more of these. I feel like a lot of folks on here would gladly pay for a body and frame milled to fit like this.

I like it. Throw a peanut tank on and rotor to give it a smaller foot print

[Jordan]

I like it. Throw a peanut tank on and rotor to give it a smaller foot print

You could accomplish almost the same thing just by capping the valve (like the picture shows) and cutting the rail down.

It's 3/8" shorter, height wise. Most of the size difference is in the length, compared to a stock Automag.

[Ecapnation]

Honestly I am a bit surprised you do not see more of these. I feel like a lot of folks on here would gladly pay for a body and frame milled to fit like this.

More or less likely because the eclipse frames went from being relatively unwanted to being a $250 frame for autocockers.

[automeister]

Does the eclipse frame lend itself to this better than another manufacturer's frame?

[Ecapnation]

Don't know... One guy was doing these. I really don't know the motive

[scottieb]

Kit has done similarly.

[Grendel]

rawbutter was doing these or similar as well.

[rawbutter]

Rawbutter was doing these or similar as well.

I wish. I always wanted to try this, but my milling machine is too small. To do the job right, the top of the frame needs to be milled with a 1-1/8" ball end mill to match up with the outer diameter of the ULE body. I don't have a 1-1/8" ball end mill, and tooling that large requires an R8 collet, which I also don't have. My tiny machine uses MT2 collets that max out at 1/2" diameter tooling. I do want to get an R8 machine one day, but I don't think that's happening any time soon.

[RuleOfSines]

I made this one today with a Bob Long frame. Lots of meat on this frame for milling.

[automeister]

Did you need to modify anything other than the body?

[automeister]

How did you handle the sear pin hole location?

[RuleOfSines]

I used a ball end mill to cut a slot down into the frame, so it matches up the depth and position as if the frame were the rail.

[superman]

I know I can do the 1 -1/8” diameter cut on the frame and open up the frame mount screw for the mounting tab. Guess I would need to know the sear pin hole location.
id prefer not to mess with the trigger geometry stuff though.

[rawbutter]

I know I can do the 1 -1/8” diameter cut on the frame and open up the frame mount screw for the mounting tab. Guess I would need to know the sear pin hole location.
id prefer not to mess with the trigger geometry stuff though.

Yeah, that's the other reason I never tried. The sear pin hole needs to be in the exact right spot. Even if you're 0.5 mm off in any direction, it probably won't work right. And even if you get the sear hole right, the sear itself will be deeper in the frame with the rail removed, but the end of the trigger rod is still going to the same place. That means the trigger rod will be about 1/2" higher than it's supposed to be. The geometry of that situation then means that the trigger pull needs to be longer to accommodate that change, and the trigger will be pushing that rod with an upward slant. That might cause jamming issues, so you'll probably have to mod the trigger somehow.

I have already written before about the perils of trigger geometry with non-AGD frames, so I won't repeat it here. But it's worth pointing out to the OP that this is something you should think about before trying a mod like this. I'm not saying you shouldn't do it, but you should know going into it that any changes to an AGD trigger will probably require a lot more time than you expect to fiddle and tune and get everything right.