Some questions as someone who is new to Automags

[timetopat]

Hello all,
I recently picked up a second hand automag from someone and wanted to try it out. I never got to use an automag back when i played in the early 2000s when those cool Tac One atuomags were around, but i always wanted to try. The people around me were autococker people who talked bad of the automag. As I understand the cool things with automags like many older paintball guns is you could basically build a new one out of parts. Many people ive heard said AGD stuff was the best however. What do you feel with that? This automag i got has a level 10 bolt, a classic valve A.I.R regulator, a ULE body, a 3rd party double trigger, and some kind of air through adapter as a grip even though the macroline is from the asa right to the regulator. I have seen that a lot of automag enthusiasts also get the X valve and I see the features it has such as the level 10 bolt and all aluminum body. What are your thoughts on the x valve vs classic valve on your automag? As someone with the level 10 bolt already will i notice a big different with the x valve or do you need to really be an enthusiast to notice the difference?
Thanks

[river031403]

Xvalve is lighter and has a faster recharge rate for higher rate of fire plus with level 10 bolt that reduces or eliminates breaking paint also Ike on off lightens the trigger pull..both level 10 bolt and ule on off require some adjustments to fine tune everything…So if you are comfortable with tinkering then buy the xvalve but parts are getting hard to find

[timetopat]

I am not well versed in this but i see people still making autococker parts and some autocockers going for sale good amounts of money despite probably being things just to hang on the wall. Are automags not getting that same kind of treatment parts wise were less people are making them or distributing them?

[Jonnydread]

Personally I’d stick with the classic valve, the extra speed isn’t really needed these days and they’re less finicky

[Trbo323]

Ok, I built a decked out cocker and then decided that because the "battle" back in the day was cockers vs mags I needed to experience the other side of it and jumped on a mag that popped up locally with an x valve already in it. Basically replaced everything on it and ended up with a pretty good mechanical mag

These days I play with the mag more than the cocker. I really think the design is well beyond the cockers and Tom Kaye really knew what he was doing.

As for your mag, if you went to an x valve the biggest thing you'll notice is the weight difference. If I had to guess it's around 1lb.

I'm glad I have one because I like to tinker and messed with the ule and RT on/offs. I'm going to pnumag it at some point which technically I think you could do with a air valve but most people do it with a RT on/off so they have a RT, retro or x valve(Can you imagine the sleeper potential with the air valve though?)

If you like how it shoots there really no need to replace the valve though

Post some pictures

Sent from my motorola edge 2024 using Tapatalk

[FredMnkyDad10]

1lb difference between a classic and Xvalve? With same exact setup or changing other parts too?

[river031403]

My last mag build 11 years ago…Xvalve lvl 10 ULT on/off and I was tuning it to be walkable…needed to do some more trigger modifications to clean the walk ability up…

https://youtube.com/shorts/rM0xo177fMM?feature=shared

o also tuned it to RT really fast lol

https://youtube.com/shorts/AYjse600zns?feature=shared

[river031403]

[FredMnkyDad10]

Most will say if you have fast fingers and want high rate of fire get an Xvalve. Me I have mags with Xvalve, RT valves and classic valves. I don't have a high rate of fire, I like to pick my shots and make them count. But when I do even my classic valve mags with a good hopper and high output tank I feel keeps up with most on the field. I even have pneumags that run a classic valve and no issues when I want to really increase my bps.

Like some have mentioned you have level 10 on it. Use it with a good hopper and tank and see how you like it. Be warned mags multiple, before you know it you have 4 with enough parts to build 2-3 more of only you had two more parts.

[river031403]

Can I give a video of what's possible with a well tuned RT

couple comments above is video link

[Meglomachinist]

Note: take that warning of mags multiplying seriously. It all started when I found my mag I bought in the 90s to go balling with my nephew....2 months later it's now 4 mags and can't ever pass up on cheap ones. Great guns easy to work on and just keep going.

[StaticShocked]

For the weight side of the discussion and information's sake, I just weighed them. I cannot comment on functionality; both are fun to use.

LVL7 Classic Valve weighs: 15.7 oz (LVL 10 should be same).
X-Valve weighs: 8.5 oz.

AGD Automag with classic valve, stainless body, classic rail, benchmark single trigger frame, foregrip, no barrel: 50.5 oz
AGD ULE mag with x-valve, ULE body, ULE rail, x-frame, doc's foregrip, no barrel: 33.7 oz

For comparison: Empire Axe 2.0, no barrel: 28.9 oz
For comparison: E-blade 2k Autococker with milling, no barrel: 47.5 oz

Yes, mags do multiply. It is a problem. Beware.

[Meglomachinist]

Or one could also say with more automags...be blessed