ULE Warp left body with LTR project.

[Calvin]

Thank you, Sir. I finished those changes to beef up the feedneck clamp in time to throw it on the bed overnight. It will be the one I test with tomorrow.

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Since I will have the new one, I tried to break the already printed version to see how tough it is. I was hurt and it was not. The 5mm rib down the middle ties the two chunky ends together. The tube walls are 3mm thick. It is very stiff.

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If it feeds as well in testing tomorrow as the smaller version did, it will definitely be my primary next game day.

[FredMnkyDad10]

Sounds like you thought this all the way through and came up great solutions for issues. You can always add good old electrical tape around the neck add some friction to help clamp onto and prevent rotation. Always have that in my gear.

[Super Nova]

Loving this, and obviously want to know if you’d be printing a couple extras of these lol

[Calvin]

I would be happy to make some for others once I am sure the design is reasonably foolproof. I woke up to this today, so I am a day behind.
20260406_095941.jpg After 15 rolls of filament, the cheapo printer had a thumbwheel loosen up. This caused a cascading series of head hits which eventually led to my z axis sensor being knocked askew. No matter. I am a hardy veteran of the fail-to-win odyssey that is 3d printing. Got things corrected, and did some mods to prevent a recurrance. Test cube printing now and then I should be back to production.

[Criticalhammer]

Is it possible to remove the warp feed neck and install a feed neck boss?

[Calvin]

Thats beyond my paygrade. I wouldnt want to kill the ULE body.

[Calvin]

The beefed up feedneck is field grade. I made the mechanical lock tab .5mm to high. Despite that, the strengthened bolt tabs are clamping like iron. No give at all. I will do some firing tests tomorrow to verify full functionality.

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[FredMnkyDad10]

Is it possible to remove the warp feed neck and install a feed neck boss?

You mean like this? The warp bodies use same threads as the center feeds. You would need a taller neck to clear the rail.

[Calvin]

Firing trials went swimmingly this am. I did a few chronoing shots and then cranked off around 100 as fast as I can with a single trigger classic with an RT pin. No issues at all, just a stream of paint. I'm confident enough in it to use it in a game. I went ahead and corrected the mechanical lock tab position, and took the opportunity to add the strengthening bits to the hopper clamp and punch a few lightening holes in the center rib. I will print that up tonight and hope it's the final version.

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[Calvin]

Final version printed great and looks great. In the spirit of endless mad science, I made one more change, which was to remove one of the bends and straighten the feed. It removes a ball from the stack and an additional vertical turn at the expense of a few more degrees of climb angle in the main tube. We will see. Its printing now.
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[Calvin]

Prints of the definitive version are complete. In the interest of science, I did one with a strengthening rib and one without. Sorry for the ugly green. More Black is being delivered today. The green is better for pics anyways.

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I am not a large man, but I am an adult silverback male. All the force I could put into the one without the rib couldn't break it, or make it flex in any way. That said, I will probably use the ribbed for pleasure version just to be thorough. It's only a tiny amount of extra weight.

I like the lines of this version better on the gun. The old version held 6 balls in the tube. The new version holds 6 with the last halfway out, so a half ball shorter. The new version has a smoother feel when moving the balls back and forth in the feed by hand, so removing that extra bend was helpful. The design also prints better as the second bend added about 1/2" in overhang that had to be cleaned up after printing. The new design prints cleaner and required only cursory cleanup in that area.

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Shooting tests this AM went every bit was well as with the old design. No issues. Just a stream of paint. I would love to get this on a fast RT valve and see how it does. I'm confident it will do whatever the hopper is capable of.

I think the nicest ergonomic improvement this makes is putting the hopper in a much better place for filling. Reloads in game will be much easier, especially in small cover.

[Cal440]

Very nice work .

[Super Nova]

Daddy likes

[GattoDiavolo]

I love the plumbing u-bend vibe! Do other hoppers fit, or is the downward slope geometry limited to Dye Rotors?

[Calvin]

I only have LTRs, so Rotors and LTRs are what Im customizing it to. I think it has to be force fed to work.

[Calvin]

Its been while since I worked on this project. Last time I tried to use it, I had a chop first round on the chrono station. After sorting that out, I had a chop mid-game after a couple minutes of not shooting. The fact that these chops happened first shot after not shooting for awhile made me think the LTR is pushing the ball into the detent far enough to let another ball drop enough to chop.

I set it aside for three months while meched Ion and Pro-Carbine madness worked its way through my system. Now, its the last marker that I have on the "Inactive Due to Issues" list. I aired it up last night and checked out the tension of the delrin ball detent. It is very light, whether due to age or design I cannot say. I also noticed that it had a bit of rollback, probably no more than my other mags, but this feed needs perfect indexing. Turning down the force in the LTR is not an option because A.) I want all my LTRs on the default setting so I can swap them through all markers and B.) This long feed system needs all the forces to keep the long stack moving properly.

Poking about with the calipers, I decided that the finger detent I use in the Ion family markers would fit into an AC detent casing. They have proven to be very reliable in pairs, so its worth a shot. I fabbed up a detent casing and printed it in PETG. Then I pressed in a PEBA finger detent once I marked which direction it was in when screwed in. The result was most improbably not terrible, and resulted in a stiffer hold on the ball then the original delrin ball detent. It has plenty of space to retract out of path of the bolt, and the marker cycles perfectly.

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I also decided to make a 2mm foamie for the bolt.

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After installation I cut about half of it off so its now a 1.x mm foamie. This gives really good ball indexing forwards and backwards.

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I ran a hopper of paint through it with both fast and slow strings, and stopped twice for 5 min each time to see if the balls were creeping into the detent like they were with the ball detent. No issues at all. I will try and get this on the field soon to see if the issues are fully ironed out.

[river031403]

I want one

[Calvin]

I got up to the field today and had time for 4 games. I used this Mag with the new detent and foamie changes for the first two games. Probably put 800 rounds through it. It was flawless. in fact, it shot damn well and caused considerable havoc in the ranks of the opposition. Listening to the pinging of a Mag is somewhat magical. The geometry of the marker in this configuration definitely feels strange. I felt myself taking very different pop out angles for shots than I normally use.

Now that I know it is reliable, I will be using it regularly to see if I can get used to it so as to fully take advantage of the lessened exposure it offers. Post-game inspection shows no issues with the foamie or the detent. The whole gun is clean other than a bit of spray from nearby hits. Super pumped that this is finally in the working gun category.

[FightingFish]

Pretty sick! Awesome to see it go from “I have an idea” to actually playing with it on the field.