Always wanted a mag…now what?

**Kit352** · 07-31-2026, 05:50 PM

Welcome to the cult. Let the hoarding begin!

My advice would be to grab a cheaper stock mag first. Your gonna end up with multiple anyway, might as well start with the base reliable one so you can learn on and see what you like and don't like. Should be around $200 or so.
Now set a money limit for the dream gun. Just on the cheaper end of your description I would say $5-600 at least. Anything with x valve and fancy anno is gonna start pushing a grand. Emags hit $1500 pretty quickly. Lukes customs even more.
The cheap base gun will let you learn what you want and potentially save you lots of money in the long run.
Personally, I wanted something like you described. Xvalve, ule, lvl 10, inteliframe, warp drive etc. After going through all the set ups buying and selling until I got what I want I ended up with two guns. A near base ule classic valved gun with a lvl 7 foamie and carbon frame which is my main gun. Never chops balls and shots as fast as I pull.that trigger.
My other mag I play with is much the same but with an inteliframe and warp feed left ule body and upgraded on\off. Works perfect. All the valves and other expensive stuff didn't really add anything to my setup that I found worth it so most got sold or stored away.

**Chuck E Ducky** · 07-31-2026, 05:57 PM

I’m a fan of a good classic valve. I could never get a xvalve to work right for me. I don’t really have advice on what to do mag related I just got a bunch of cool pieces I liked and put them together.

**Cdn_Cuda** · 07-31-2026, 06:00 PM

I have always been an auto cocker guy. I've had a few mags, starting with fancy Xvalved mags with ULT... which are the devil. Never could make it work. Then I picked up a classic valved mag, just pretty basic, but with a warpfeed and say why people like mags so much. I currently have a magfed mag and recently picked up a RT mag that leaks... so need to see if I can fix it. I want to experience an RT mag with a warpfeed just for the hell of it. They are heavy and awkward, but I love the absurdity of it all. I am also an opportunitist, so picked up my mags when the they were local and at a good price.

So start simple, then go from there. But beware of the ULT.... that little oring does not come in the AGD kits despite the kits saying they include everything you need to make your mag work.... and all this "Mags are easy to work on" I'm not too sure about, especially when you get into carriers and shims.

**JohnB** · 07-31-2026, 06:52 PM

Get an emek. Then get a mag down the line if you want. The emek does everything the uppd mag would with more reliability.

**1snowridr** · 07-31-2026, 07:05 PM

I'd contact Bearded works and see what he has for sale. It will come ready to play. He's also a member here.

**Chuck E Ducky** · 07-31-2026, 07:09 PM

Emeks are awesome (cheap reliable durable) probably my favorite mech is my emek we been through alot.

But if you always wanted a mag get one. Post up a WTB when you figure out what you are looking for and how deep you want to dive into building or buying. Lots of guys here are very knowledgeable in Automag and can help you if you got questions.

**FredMnkyDad10** · 07-31-2026, 07:35 PM

With a mag if you got a good loader, anything from an eggy, viewloader, rotor or better with an higher output pressure tank you wont be doing much blending.

The biggest thing on X vs classic is weight. Is there weight savings? Yes. Worth it, depending who you ask. And what look you going for, if that matters to you.

To me, when you are playing it dont make a difference. But I am one that is using aluminum tank vs most who have carbon.

The other thing is the X will use more air than classic.

I would agree, get your basic classic. Play and get to know that for a while. Then look around for the upd mag you want now days. Or you can do that in reverse too, tons have. And yes they multiply.

**Trbo323** · 08-01-2026, 08:59 AM

Originally posted by JohnB

Get an emek. Then get a mag down the line if you want. The emek does everything the uppd mag would with more reliability.

Ummm, no

Go RT a emek, can't? Weird
Ok, put a drop forward on one or have any kind of option for ASA, also can't? Weird
Ok, I want to move the for grip to suit me better, wait I can't?
I really prefer right feed, what? I can't do that?

I thought you said the emek can do everything the mag can?

FightingFish it's expensive but a x valve may be the option for you. You can put a RT on/off in an x valve and have a lighter weight version of the RT pro. What makes the RT able to RT is the on/off anyway. Not anything in the valve itself. You just can't do it with a classic valve, they were never set up for it and you can't actually put a RT on/off in the valve. To do an RT you need a RT,retro or x valve. The retro valve will save you money as it's basically a steel x valve .I wouldn't recommend the RT pro anyway, running the air through the rail and banjo bolt caused some sealing issues and many of them leaked. This is why later versions just had the air come in through the side of the valve rather than do the banjo bolt field strip pin. I've dealt with one that had the leak issue, it wasn't fun. I probably spent 4 hours on my work bench just dealing with the leak.

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**GanonsGrin** · 08-01-2026, 09:38 AM

I would also echo a classic valve over an x valve, and unless you plan on ripping shots on the field in strings, I’ve never had a mag blend paint on a classic valve with stock bolt. I’m also not a heavy gunner by any means, but still never had issues with chopping with a revvy loader. It’s all just sort of personal preference in the long run. If it were me, I’d go with a ULE body, carbon frame, and stock valve for a simple starter setup. The ULE is cocker threaded so you don’t have to worry about twist lock options. Of course you can always get an adaptor from Doc and run cocker barrels in the old bodies too, but that’s another expense to add in.

**Trbo323** · 08-01-2026, 10:40 AM

Originally posted by GanonsGrin

I would also echo a classic valve over an x valve, and unless you plan on ripping shots on the field in strings, I've never had a mag blend paint on a classic valve with stock bolt. I'm also not a heavy gunner by any means, but still never had issues with chopping with a revvy loader. It's all just sort of personal preference in the long run. If it were me, I'd go with a ULE body, carbon frame, and stock valve for a simple starter setup. The ULE is cocker threaded so you don't have to worry about twist lock options. Of course you can always get an adaptor from Doc and run cocker barrels in the old bodies too, but that's another expense to add in.

This is the nice part about mags because something like this will likely cost you around $300 to put together but then you can upgrade any piece one at a time and still have a functional marker the whole time

My mag started out as a minimag, x valve and a hyper frame. Basically a poor man's emag. But since then everything except the x valve itself has changed. Now it's mechanical with an extended rail, ule body, intelli frame and my choice of drop forward and on/off ASA. I got most of those pieces one at a time and had a functional marker the whole time

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**FightingFish** · 08-02-2026, 10:21 PM

Originally posted by Trbo323

This is the nice part about mags because something like this will likely cost you around $300 to put together but then you can upgrade any piece one at a time and still have a functional marker the whole time

My mag started out as a minimag, x valve and a hyper frame. Basically a poor man's emag. But since then everything except the x valve itself has changed. Now it's mechanical with an extended rail, ule body, intelli frame and my choice of drop forward and on/off ASA. I got most of those pieces one at a time and had a functional marker the whole time

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That’s pretty much my plan. I want to start with something with “good bones,” and then upgrade and tweak the specifics after I play with it a bit.

**Trbo323** · 08-02-2026, 10:51 PM

Starting with a ule body would be a good option if you are building from the ground up because if you do not do that one down the road you have to consider the barrel and feedneck as well.

If you already have a bunch of cocker barrels then it's not a crazy switch. The feednecks are typically $40 (Angel thread) so again not the end of the world if you start with a classic body

The ule was the first thing I changed on mine because I have a hard time playing with anything that is not center feed. I also already had plenty of cocker barrels but only had the one twist lock that came with my mag

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**Walker** · 08-03-2026, 07:33 AM

Pffftttt... Just get a basic Mag and make sure you even like them before going crazy.... You can spend anywhere from $150 for a basic to $2000+ for a custom AutoMag....

XValve = $250 to $300
Ule body = $150
Aftermarket Rail = $150
Aftermarket frame = $250
Autococker barrel = Whatever you like
Bits and pieces (screws, sear and plumbing) = $150

Basic Classic Mag = $150 to $250
Doc's Autococker barrel adapter = $55
Rebuild kit = $25

**scottieb** · 08-03-2026, 11:15 AM

I recommend a classic valve with an R/T on/off. This is one of my 'mags and I run into zero problems with it.

Always wanted a mag…now what?

Always wanted a mag…now what?

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