Electro Cocker - Not shooting high ROF

[jubsz]

I put together a Black Magic (standard 2k+ body) with an e1, rex dialer, nexus ram/qev's, kapp LPR, PE dart bolt, etc... I've got the sear set appropriately and thought that I had set the cocking rod correctly. I finally got the marker shooting pretty well (chronos +/-5ish). Once I start walking the trigger, it will fail to shoot a ball here and there. Seems to be at a higher ROF, it just won't shoot an odd ball or a few all and starts to double/triple feed. I have been backing off and then firing again and it shoots fine until attempting a higher ROF again. I do not think it's dropping off. I think it is straight failing to shoot the ball at all. I went up to a super high pressure on my LPR as well to verify that it is not that. Maybe next time I can get out the gopro and check it in slow-mo to see what is actually happening

I'm learning autococker tuning as I go and am waiting on a Sci-Fi board before I get into messing with the electronic settings (hopefully). Could this be a detent issue? Cocking rod not set right? Timing settings causing it to cock too soon (I don't see why high ROF would affect this though).

[Trbo323]

Could be a number of things

First, how are you setting your LPR?

This could easily be too little LPR pressure which would explain why it shorts at lower ROF but not at higher

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[autococker04]

Is it cycling a ball into the gun, but not shooting it? Or just failing to do anything if you go too fast? The first one sounds like a capacitor on the board to the clapper solenoid, the second sounds more like recharge rate/set pressure on the LPR.

[jubsz]

I set the LPR by turning it up until it cocks reliably, verifying that the bolt went back far enough in the breech. I then turned it up another 1/4 turn. After that, it still seemed a bit low so I turned it up more. I was also advised to do some feeling of the tension in the block. With the marker at rest, I felt how hard it was to pull back the block. I was told it should not be super hard.

With all of that being said, I ramped up the LPR pretty high while doing this test to try to write that failure point off. I ramped it up until I go some leakage out of a QEV and backed off a hair.

Also, the ball is cycling into the chamber but not firing. I do not believe it is shooting any air out of the valve when this occurs. There is no visible shoot-down occurring before this. It is just a ball loads and fails to shoot. I believe it happens for a few in a row. I then let off and shoot 3+ out of the chamber. I started firing again into higher ROF's and the same happens again, reliably after just a second or two.

So it sounds like we're attacking 2 possiblities: Marker is not cocking reliably at higher ROF or is not releasing the hammer reliably at higher ROF. We are attempting to chase the former idea with LPR pressures and the latter as an issue with the clapper solenoid. Sound right? I set the sear length by manually hitting the pancake noid and getting it set so that it releases at half travel. I think I was pretty darn spot on with it and do not anticipate that I was off in any meaningful way. Any more info on the clapper solenoid? I'll do some searching.

I live in a condo but I'd like to get out somewhere with my go-pro and shoot in slow mo to see if anything apparent is visible.

[Trbo323]

Bolt/back block should be difficult to pull back but not impossible. This is how I've always set my LPR and it's worked fairly well. Whoever told you it should be easy to pull back is off their rocker.

Give the lug a half turn each way and test in between, are there any changes?

Full turn?

This could also be a timing issue, what settings are you running?

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[jubsz]

Hmm, ok, I'll keep that in mind for the LPR. For this experiment, I did turn up the LPR higher than necessary to make sure that was not my root cause. I do have concerns about my LPR knob backing out over time but don't think it is the root cause here, especially since the marker continued to feed paint even when not firing. It's a KAPP LPR and the knob just seems very easy to turn, especially turning it out.

I'm going to hold off on adjusting the lug as I'm pretty confident that it's adjusted correctly, dropper the hammer half way through the stroke. My clapper solenoid seems to be pretty strong and reliable anecdotally. It also looks very clean, not corroded overall unless there is something that I really need to take apart aside from what is easily visible.

I think I'm going to shelf it until I get my Sci-Fi board in. That should make messing with settings much easier for since it connects to the phone app. I did notice that my battery terminals are cracking and pulling away from the current board. To make it work with the current board, that should probably be my first fix. I do not have a soldering iron but should probably own one anyways. I may try to fix that and see if it works.

[Magmoormaster]

If the back block is going far enough back to load a ball but the gun doesn't fire, you have one of 3 issues. Either your electronics are going (clapper noid or capacitor), your clapper noid dwell isn't set right, or your lug isn't set right. I posted those in the inverse order of their likelihood; the lug should be the #1 thing to check. I have found that 4 1/2 turns from flush is the perfect spot with the hammers my shop had, but it's not always going to be the same. The "perfect" setting sometimes requires a bit of tweakign to get it function perfectly. Different lug shapes, machining tolerances, wear on the lug or sear, etc, can all change things. Point being, check the lug like Trbo said. A quarter turn out will probably solve the problem.

Unless you are running custom board settings, we can probably rule out dwell settings.

Which then leads to electronics. Usually when a clapper noid goes bad, it's not sporadic like this. Same goes for the capacitor. Both are usually obvious when they go bad. From where I sit, I'm 99% positive the lug just needs some tweaking.

[TomDuece]

I had a similar issue playing today with an E1. Shit fine first few games, had a few double feeds which I attributed to the LTR loader. Then had a game where it would not fire but cock, leading 2,3,4 balls and then breaking in the barrel. Pulled the loader off and hand fed balls at that point. Thought it was the loader, but maybe was the hammer lug? Got home and backed out the lug and shot some strings with both loaders (have a revi my son was using) and no problems. Wondering if this is solved or will have problems again when I play next time. Didn't see any updates from OP on this one.

[TomDuece]

Stupid autocorrect. *shot and *loading 2,3,4