Loctite'd hammer lug?

[zinger565]

Bought an autococker off eBay (I know, I know) and I'm breaking it down for a good cleaning and rebuild. Was it common at one point in time to loctite the hammer lug? I can't get it to move at all, even throwing a wrench on the allen key. Is it safe to throw the body + valve/hammer into some very hot water to loosen loctite, or am I kind of SOL?

Cocker is a 2003 Prostock in okay shape. Would like to get it shooting as is, but may throw some upgrades and custom anno at it if I can manage to get it working well.

[JeeperCreeper]

You can try boiling hot water, hopefully it will loosen up, but if it is Red Locktite, that stuff releases at about 500*F. You could also try a heat gun. It's a bit safer than a torch.

[zinger565]

You can try boiling hot water, hopefully it will loosen up, but if it is Red Locktite, that stuff releases at about 500*F. You could also try a heat gun. It's a bit safer than a torch.

Yeah, I'm starting to suspect at the very least blue loctite, and potentially red. There's definitely loctite residue on the bottom line fittings, I can visibly see the pump arm is loctited to the ram, and the cocking knob appears to be loctited to the cocking rod (not a huge deal, as it seemed to be decently set before I broke things down).

Heat gun/torch is gonna destroy the cup seal though, isn't it?

[JeeperCreeper]

It could very well damage the seals. Which is why I was thinking a heat gun because it's more controlled and you could just keep adding heat a little at a time

[Trbo323]

Heat gun/torch is gonna destroy the cup seal though, isn't it?

Potentially, but without being able to get the hammer out, you can't remove them anyway so you are still screwed since you can't do any maintenance.

In this case, if you have a small propane torch, it might be the better option since it's a more intense but focused heat

I would hang the body, nose up and get the hammer all the way to the back, then using the torch get the heat on the lug itself through the channel in the bottom of the body

Potentially before heat you could also pour some water to sit on top of the cup seal, that way if it starts heating up that heat will be boiled off by the water rather than soaking in the cup seal itself but with such a focused heat from the torch I'm not sure it's even needed. Torch that lug, get it nice and hot and get a wrench on it.

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[OpusX]

Use a soldering iron to just heat the targeted piece and not overheat the entire body.

[Mr. Hick]

THIS! all this. Great success!

[Trbo323]

Use a soldering iron to just heat the targeted piece and not overheat the entire body.

Worth a shot if you want but I really doubt that's going to get hot enough

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[Hellion360]

I have done this successfully.
You must be patient.

You can also use a mini torch through the bottom of the body. Remove the springs and IVG first but reinstall the cocking rod so it can be manipulated. Go low and slow.

[Euphie]

I have had to put whole parts in the oven at 550f and ruin o-rings because someone used a bunch of red loctite on a maxflo before. To be clear the o-rings were still in one piece but, unless the seals are made out of FFKM or something, it is smart to replace them once they get that hot

[Macdave06]

Get one of those little butane crack torches. They have a very small flame compared to a typical propane or mapp torch. If you're worried about heating the rest too much you can wrap it in wet paper towels.

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[zinger565]

I think they're typically used for soufflé and cooking, but I suppose "crack torch" works too! Lmao.

[Mr. Hick]

I have had some success with using a large common nail (probably a 16d for a hammer lug) and heating it until its red hot with a torch, then setting it on a small part (the lug directly) multiple times to transfer high heat without directly torching the location.

[Walker]

If all this fails, carefully grind it down with a Dremel, slide the hammer out, and replace it. Take your time.....

[latches109]

Put the body in a vice with soft jaws, hit it with the heat gun, then use the sharpest 1/8th T-Allen wrench with a pipe for extra leverage.

Also, you can heat cycle it a few times to have the metal expansion and contraction break the bonds.

[zinger565]

Thanks for all the tips folks, I'll let you know how it goes. After closer inspection the body is in really good shape. Two small idiot marks near the detent and that's it. I'm gonna take it slow and careful so as not to ruin anything.

[HammerD]

if you arent positive its loctite, and havent already, i would try a little gold cup or even a penetrating oil and let it work its way in to the threads before you mess with the heat options.

[Jordan]

Did you check for a setscrew behind the cocking rod? There might be one locking the lug.

[zinger565]

Wait, that's a thing? This cocker seems pretty stock, didn't think a locking lug was normal on WGP parts.

[Jordan]

I've seen it on a few hammers... never on a stock WGP hammer, but you never know. It's possible someone put one in there.

[latches109]

this is a good thought. some older bodies have a hole drilled on the side for the hammer lug nut setscrew. Like this from bacci's video

https://youtu.be/AXEevDCb9uQ?t=19

[zinger565]

Welp, finally got it and several other parts. Remembered we had a soufflé/chef's torch. Worked perfectly in conjuction with a big ol'T-handle hex.

Hammer lug, ram to pump arm, ram to front block, and lpr to front block all required the torch.