Any race frame gurus here??

[Super Nova]

Got this guy off eBay a while ago and I’d really like to get the frame working if possible. I’ve tried charging it and it’s either not taking a charge or the battery is dead. When you push the power button it flickers green for half a second then turns off and won’t repeat that unless you let it sit for a long time. Is it a goner or can it be revived?

[Trbo323]

These run something like a 3.7 volt rechargeable right?

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[Super Nova]

no idea

[DocsMachine]

If it's an original battery, it's more than twenty years old. I'd be surprised if it could hold any kind of a charge at this point.

There's a thread from only a few months back, where I asked about Raceguns, as I found out I still had three of them. (Just frames, not whole guns.) And somebody mentioned that there was a fellow making new batteries. I don't recall the details, but if you dig up that thread, it should be in there.

Doc.

[Super Nova]

any of them have single triggers and guards you wanna offload?

[Trbo323]

If it's an original battery, it's more than twenty years old. I'd be surprised if it could hold any kind of a charge at this point.

There's a thread from only a few months back, where I asked about Raceguns, as I found out I still had three of them. (Just frames, not whole guns.) And somebody mentioned that there was a fellow making new batteries. I don't recall the details, but if you dig up that thread, it should be in there.

Doc.

I was making some for the vanguard markers a while back. If someone can open up a grave and get some pictures for me I might be able to at least help

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[Super Nova]

Looks like 4.8 volts and yes 21 years old lol.

[Lt. head-shot]

Man that sucks its not just slightly lower voltage, you'd be able to get away with a 1 cell Lipo battery (4.2 volts) Much smaller than the Nimh batteries.

I'm no electrical engineer, but I wonder if you could use a 2 cell lipo (8.4v) and have some sort of regulator/resistor in between the battery and the board to regulate it down to the correct voltage.

[Brokeass_baller]

Do you have the cable for it? I think I still have mine from long, long ago. *IF* I can find it, you're welcome to have it.

[Trbo323]

http://www.batteryuniverse.com/cat/medical-battery/oem-om11252-medical-battery?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&adpos=&scid=scplpOM11252-2123&sc_intid=OM11252-2123&gclid=Cj0KCQiA3eGfBhCeARIsACpJNU-tqcEjnDtNGe-jJZ3m4aTuKtSdAsb3IX6jNGJnHFx_dPtgClmOtUYaAu3LEALw_wcB

Seems to me that if you solder some leads on this, shrink wrap the whole thing you might have a new battery

Or, if there's room in the frame this might be plug and play if the connector is right

https://batteryhawks.com/products/ni-cd-aa600mah-4-8v-unitech-ni-cd-battery-for-emergency-exit-light?variant=8226064760889&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gclid=Cj0KCQiA3eGfBhCeARIsACpJNU9rBobvlSGPdnp-K-yeE9Zp4TPZ2-83muXByIXUFWx0SHHDC2S4wBoaAq5nEALw_wcB

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[Super Nova]

the plug and play ones look a little large to fit in the frame with the board being in there also. The medical battery looks like it has some promise, think that be a better option that going to batteries plus?

[Trbo323]

the plug and play ones look a little large to fit in the frame with the board being in there also. The medical battery looks like it has some promise, think that be a better option that going to batteries plus?

If batteries plus has the same battery id bet it's cheaper. Since that one says medical I'm betting it's more expensive. Call and ask I guess. Voltage and mah and form factor are the 3 things you need to know. And if it's rechargable I guess

If you don't want to do it yourself bring it over to me and I have a soldering setup here.

Edit: just remembered, my multimeter crapped out, I would want to check polarity before plugging it in

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