Parts Id and help
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Bunch of SystemX stuff (cocker body, seperate front block, chrome back block and bolt).
On the cocker build, old shocktech hingy frame, ans jackhammer lpr, older shocktech bomb 3way, shocktech ram, generic gas through grip, last gen Dye stickies, bolt looks to be shocktech supa-fly, smartparts red female max flow reg (probably from an imp or shocker).
Extra bits, brass hammer probably shocktech, kapp 2k volumizer, black 3 way is ANS, stock wgp brass valveVelcor will save us...
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Those bomb 3ways take very special orings (bunch of info out there). Otherwise should all be rebuildable.Velcor will save us...
Current MCB Feedback : https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/b...opusx-feedback
Legacy MCB Feedback (Wayback Machine)Comment
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Kind of depends on what you have experience with. If you have worked on a lot of modern markers, cockers probably won't be too wild. If all you have ever worked on are spyders and tippmanns, then they might cause some headaches.
There is one special tool you will need to get the valve out. It's called an "autococker valve tool" typically they are around $25 and if you are getting into cockers you really need one. Besides that just make sure your hex wrench set has the .050 size wrench (tiny) and you should be set. I know that jackhammer LPR uses it at a minimum.
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When in doubt grab a pump kit and make is a sniper. Then the only thing you need to do is deal with the valve, which is easy (once you have the Autococker valve tool). If you want to keep it mech I highly recommend an ID 3-way. They are way easier to tune than most 3-ways.
One thing to watch out for is a leaky ram and it can make it look like a leaky 3-way.
Dive righty in and ask lots of questions! We’ll help you through it.Comment
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