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I really like the ones from Autocockerparts.com, they are well made and seem to have just the right amount of resistance. The inception cocker detents are very nicely made, but I had issues with the spring being too light, they were not strong enough to stop double feeds (they worked well after I placed a second smaller spring inside the original spring to increase the amount of force needed to push the detent in)... but maybe others have had better luck with them.
Let's clear one thing up. These detents are not 'rebuildable' because no one sells springs or balls for them for them! A more appropriate name would be 'cleanable' detents 😂 (will update if Nummech's parts work with other brands detents)
edit: OpusX 's suggestion spurred me to check out Nummech's detent. They offer springs for $2.50 and only $15 for the entire detent! I'm buying one now plus some springs and balls for all my current detents. The design looks okay but not sure how deep it can be installed in the body, will update once I check them out. Thanks OpusX!
Check-It / PB-Gateway all the way, quality at only $15. They are nice arguably better than others because they come with a plastic detent ball and extra spring (at least mine came with an extra spring 15 years ago but a spring is not mentioned in the description today.) They look very similar to ST's detents currently but they had different styles in the past.
Freeflow is second choice. Quality and it's also only $15. Plus these have a unique style.
Shocktechs are nice and solid. I have two from years ago but not a new one. Hopefully they've only improved. And USA made!
Never used Inceptions detent, but I'd guess it's solid. But that logo is not appealing unless its going on an ID cocker.
Autococker part's design is arguably flawed. It does not allow for the detent to be installed as deep as possible and loctite'd into place. The location of the oring prevents the proper depth and the fact that it's the only rebuildable detent which does not have a hex to help install and (way more importantly) remove it from the body. This is gonna be more and more important as paint is constantly shrinking and even more important if using a force-feed loader. Only nice things aspects about the ACP detents are the variety of colors and if the hard corners look good with a body's styling.
One thing to note about the Nummech Rebuildable detents, you pretty much HAVE to disassemble them and blue loctite them back together. The rear set screw will work it's way out during normal play.
It's not really bad either though, just something to be aware of. Once blue loctited in place they perform flawlessly for years and I've still yet to have a problem with them.
Possibly a tad more involved to service if the Loctite between the detent and body breaks instead of the Loctite you mentioned. Could be a headache if that happens while cleaning the detent while at the field. But nothing most of us couldn't handle lol
Personally I would never use the shocktech, ID, or check it detents. Not having wrench flats is a huge downside to me; I’ve worked on too many guns where parts that are supposedly easy to remove/disassemble get stuck and you have to mar the f*** out of it to get it apart. Wrench flats or nothing.
My recommendation is nummech or the autococker parts one, which is a recreation of the older system x detents. Just depends on what style you want; nummech is more modern, ACP is more traditional. I went with the ACP myself.
Wrench flats are great until ya slip and put a scratch body of the gun itself. I'd rather replace a $15 detent than put a scratch on a $1000 autoccker body.
The anodized aluminum wrench flats on an ACP/Nummech will likely scratch/mar while removing the detent if it's truly stuck in the body like you describe.. And I feel extremely bad for whoever has a stuck ACP detent, removes the aluminum portion and leaves the SS portion stuck in the body. Vice grips will need to be applied directly on SS threads to removed it since the ACP do not accept a 1/4 hex like the ST, Check-It, ID and Freeflow.
A stuck ST, Check-IT, Freeflow, or ID can easily be removed with a small strap wrench. Worse case scenario, cut rubber off the end of the strap wrench and use to it pad a vice grip. Then use a 1/4 allen to remove the SS portion.
That can all be avoided with proper installation of a ST, Check-IT, Freeflow, or ID detent. Loctite (blue or green) the SS portion at you preferred depth and allow to fully cure, very lightly moisten the internal oring with Dow33 (this step ensures you never remove the entire detent when attempting to remove only the cap), install external oring, and install cap with enough tension it will not unscrew. I've never had an issue with those style of detents if these steps are followed.
Last edited by minimag03; 03-23-2024, 03:47 AM.
Reason: added prope installation
Let's clear one thing up. These detents are not 'rebuildable' because no one sells springs or balls for them for them! A more appropriate name would be 'cleanable' detents 😂 (will update if Nummech's parts work with other brands detents)
Originally posted by Magmoormaster
Personally I would never use the shocktech, ID, or check it detents. Not having wrench flats is a huge downside to me; I’ve worked on too many guns where parts that are supposedly easy to remove/disassemble get stuck and you have to mar the f*** out of it to get it apart. Wrench flats or nothing.
My recommendation is nummech or the autococker parts one, which is a recreation of the older system x detents. Just depends on what style you want; nummech is more modern, ACP is more traditional. I went with the ACP myself.
Shocktech sell parts for their detents. Just Email them a Info@shocktechusa.com. (I will work with them to make a rebuild kit.) My guess is that FF, ID, and ACP will also. The balls are 1/4" and can be found on McMaster (HDEP 9587k14) of (SS 304 9291k47). The o-ring is a 009 70 for most. The spring is the hardest part but not impossible (OD .25, Length .26, Wire Dia .013-.014, 4.5 coils closed). In a pinch you can use a kitchen sponge cut to fit (done it and it works).
Most should rarely need replacing parts of you clean and service your detents. Use a good anti-rust light oil like WD40 non aerosol for the spring and bearing. WD40 displaces moisture. If you break a ball, make sure to disassemble and clean. Light oil and reassemble.
What most do not know is how to install the Shocktech Ball detents (and other brands in the same stye). The SS threaded barrel should be Loctite in the body. ST used green LT 680 with 7649 Loctite primer. Only a toothpick drop is applied to the body and the SS barrel is screwed into the body with a bolt in place. Screw it in till it hits the bolt then back it out a 1/8 to 1/4 turn. Wipe off any excess LT and let setup for about 10-20 min. Insert the ball then spring and screw on the cap till snug. The friction 009 o-ring, inside the cap will hold it in place. Apply the ST sticker.
The key thing here is if you can take it apart its cleanable and rebuildable.
Thank you for letting us know ST will sell replacement parts Hopefully Nummech will be a source for the composite balls. I've never use one for an extended amount of time but could see them needing to be replaced. It sure would be nice if someone found composite detent balls which are slightly softer than delrin. They need to be replaced but our bolts would prob far better. If only we knew such a competent person capable of taking on the task and then selling them to the masses. Prob too good to me true lol
I personally want new springs for my 15+ year old ST and Check-It rebuildable detents. They're bound to have lost some force from being compressed all those years.
Green has always worked on detents for ya? I'd be concerned the green would break and the entire detent would come out if the cap was really torqued down against the 009. That's the reason I recommended using a slight amount of grease to wet the 009 when explaining how install these types of detents earlier in the thread.. I use 242 on mine but mentioned green because that's what ST recommends. I need to get some green...
minimag03 Not sure what ACP detent you're talking about, but these are not aluminum, and if you remove the inner part the outer part has wrench flats. And at least with the ACP detent, I would never actually use a wrench, I use a socket. Fair point on nummech though. I'm personally not a fan of aluminum detents partially for that reason.
And sure, those other detents might work fine if they're installed correctly. But how often are they actually installed correctly? I can tell you most of them I've had to pull off of guns were not.
I was referring to only other detent on ACP's website. The one with "Rebuildable" in its title. The OP asked about rebuildable detent.. Im guessing their nickel detents are also serviceable/rebuildable? Funny how ACP let that out the title of the detent that was over 30% cheaper lol
Does the nickel have a stiffer feel to it? One thing I forgot to mention about the alum ACP detents ones was the spring force. It's pretty stiff, Id imagie
Huh yeah I had not seen that one before. That one is definitely a crappy design. As for the stiffness, I didn't notice it being any stiffer than a standard WGP detent.
I am currently looking to move away from the Nummech detent. The housing is entirely aluminum. The threaded body that holds the ball detent in it has a very thin aluminum lip to hold the detent ball. This wears out. When this happens you lose the ball detent and spring down the barrel. The detent body will no longer hold a detent ball in it because the opening is bigger than the ball itself. This failure has occurred after about twenty (20) cases of paint. I had the delrin ball in the detent the entire time too, and I think that would wear against the detent's aluminum housing less than the stainless ball option. The delrin ball should have worn before the aluminum lip that holds the ball in place, but the replace delrin ball was lost within 1000 shots after being replaced. This tells me the wear has occurred on the aluminum detent housing itself.
I have had one of these custom anodized for my build because it does look awesome. Now that it has failed I have to get something else like an inception, shocktech, or autococker parts detent. My experience has taught me to use one of these that houses the ball in a stainless body because it will last a long time. The only portion of the detent that should be aluminum should be the cap that you see on the outside. The body itself should not be. If it's aluminum it wears out from the bolt, dirt, and paint that inevitably touch it. It will no longer hold the detent ball. You'll be left with a pretty detent that is hollow. You'll be even more disappointed if you had it custom anno'ed like I did. I strongly suggest inception, shocktech, or autococker parts. They have the aluminum head (although it's not as pretty) to anodize to match your gun and a stainless body to house the detent ball and spring. That stainless body won't wear out, and it'll live to hold the detent ball and spring longer than you.
The Nummech detent is second to none in looks, but I'm disappointed that after a custom anodize it has failed so soon.
I am currently looking to move away from the Nummech detent. The housing is entirely aluminum. The threaded body that holds the ball detent in it has a very thin aluminum lip to hold the detent ball. This wears out. When this happens you lose the ball detent and spring down the barrel. The detent body will no longer hold a detent ball in it because the opening is bigger than the ball itself. This failure has occurred after about twenty (20) cases of paint. I had the delrin ball in the detent the entire time too, and I think that would wear against the detent's aluminum housing less than the stainless ball option. The delrin ball should have worn before the aluminum lip that holds the ball in place, but the replace delrin ball was lost within 1000 shots after being replaced. This tells me the wear has occurred on the aluminum detent housing itself.
I have had one of these custom anodized for my build because it does look awesome. Now that it has failed I have to get something else like an inception, shocktech, or autococker parts detent. My experience has taught me to use one of these that houses the ball in a stainless body because it will last a long time. The only portion of the detent that should be aluminum should be the cap that you see on the outside. The body itself should not be. If it's aluminum it wears out from the bolt, dirt, and paint that inevitably touch it. It will no longer hold the detent ball. You'll be left with a pretty detent that is hollow. You'll be even more disappointed if you had it custom anno'ed like I did. I strongly suggest inception, shocktech, or autococker parts. They have the aluminum head (although it's not as pretty) to anodize to match your gun and a stainless body to house the detent ball and spring. That stainless body won't wear out, and it'll live to hold the detent ball and spring longer than you.
The Nummech detent is second to none in looks, but I'm disappointed that after a custom anodize it has failed so soon.
As i mentioned before, I recently picked up a Nummech detent to check it out. Your results are disturbing but I can def see it happening. A contributing factor to this issue is probably the detent spring tension. It has the most tension on any detent I've ever used on any detent, by far. It's enough tension to damage a bolt like 10X faster than a normal detent, not exaggerating. I loctited the hollow setscrew as far out as possible for the threads to catch. This would reduces some tension but it's still way more than other detents. Unfortunately the Nummech detent must be fully threaded into the body since it has such short threads.
The Nummech has not changed my opinion. The Check-It detent is still the #1 with the Freeflow #2 and Shocktech #3, based on price for performance. But buy whichever one you like best or looks best on your gun. Then follow Docfires or my instructions for installation and you'll be golden. Avoid Autococker Parts rebuildable detents unless it perfectly compliments your guns aesthetics.
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