Frame and trigger plate question.

[Rollout]

How do you tell if a frame needs a +98 trigger plate -98 plate?
Ive got a Benchmark and Angry frame and the +98 seams to work in them both. I was under the assumption that it wouldn’t work in either. The only -98 plate I have came out of my old Boston Express and it appears to have a slight curve upwards on the top of the plate. Looking to get an AKA plate for the Angry frame and want to get the right one.

[$L!mBo]

iirc, the main difference is this part and slotted vs round timing rod hole

[k_obeastly]

The curve at the top was done by someone doing a trigger job to take out slop. At least to my understanding. I think Ravi covered that in his ANS genx cocker review, but I can't access it right now. In the 98+ frames they started to include a second vertical screw to take out the slop and negated a need for doing this but they sacrificed the overtravel set screw that used to be in that location. If it has a second vertical screw, it will probably take a 98+ plate.

IIRC All my benchmarks take 98+ except for the double trigger models.

[Magmoormaster]

Both the benchmark doubles I worked on took 98+ plates. Same as the singles, they were available in both.

[Rollout]

The curve at the top was done by someone doing a trigger job to take out slop. At least to my understanding. I think Ravi covered that in his ANS genx cocker review, but I can't access it right now. In the 98+ frames they started to include a second vertical screw to take out the slop and negated a need for doing this but they sacrificed the overtravel set screw that used to be in that location. If it has a second vertical screw, it will probably take a 98+ plate.

IIRC All my benchmarks take 98+ except for the double trigger models.

I suspected that the curve was intentional. It came from Boston Paintball like this in a Benchmark frame.

[k_obeastly]

https://web.archive.org/web/20011221000441/http://paintballravi.com/Articles/ANS_Autococker/ANS_Gen-X.html

Guess there are benchmarks without the second adjustment screw. Looks like the original frame on the ans cockers were benchmarks as well.

[Magmoormaster]

Both angry and benchmark frames were available before and after the 98 plate change, and as such there are some that require one or the other. You can use pre-98 in 98+ frames but not the other way around.

As far as how to tell one from the other, a lot of the older benchmark frames have the year lasered on the side. But usually it's just the 2 vertical slop screws as mentioned above. You can usually see them both from the bottom (often have to remove the grips), but there are some frames where the rear screw is only adjustable from the top.

[latches109]

"You can use pre-98(plates) in 98+ frames" would like to add, you really need to crank up the rear set screw to keep it level.

[latches109]

your pre-98 plate looks bent on the top.


quickest way to identify them is the pre-98s look like you can stab your self with them.

[minimag03]

If the 98+ plate fits the Angry frames then it uses +98 plates. A 98+ plate will not sit into a pre98 frame. But pre98 plate will sit in all frames, but doesn't work nearly as well

Basically, if your frame has 2 vertical glide screws accessible from the outside of the frame then it uses 98+ plates. There are some exceptions but thats generally true of 95% of the frames I've found..

[Rollout]

your pre-98 plate looks bent on the top.


quickest way to identify them is the pre-98s look like you can stab your self with them.

I noticed this as well and thanks to k_obeastly I did some research on https://web.archive.org/web/20011212...CUTrigger.html
and found that it was intentionally done as part of a trigger job. The plate came from a pre 98 45 benchmark frame that was cut for a double trigger. I guess this was part of Boston Paitballs trigger jobs for an Express cocker. Mine has both the trigger and sear modified as the description below.
The following is taken from Ravi’s page

Bent Trigger-Plate
I first saw this mod on Bad Boyz Toyz Autocockers and have found it to be possibly the most important tweak for making a 2-finger trigger-shoe work well. It only works with 45-style trigger-frames. If you look at the back of a trigger-plate as it sits in a 45-frame, you'll notice that the back of the plate sits much lower than the front. This extra space in the back allows the trigger to rotate up and down, and can cause the trigger to bind and drag if you have a 2-finger shoe on it. If you bend up the back of the trigger-plate slightly so it's even all the way across, along with the trigger-guide, it eliminates all vertical slack in the trigger. Though other shops have begun doing this mod as well, Danny Love still implements it better than anyone else I've seen.
Bevelled Sear Plate This has long been a standard part of Automag trigger-jobs: bevel the sear to slope down to the side so it will drop off the bolt more smoothly and easily. I never would have thought to do this on the Autococker. Danny Love did. On a Bad Boyz Toyz Autococker I recently reviewed, I took off the trigger frame just to see if anything else was new in there. I saw that he'd actually shaved down one side of the sear plate where it catches the lug to release the sear lug more smoothly. The result was that the trigger was noticeably smoother than otherwise. Very cool, very new, only from Bad Boyz Toyz (as far as I know).

[latches109]

interesting, I never knew this.