Hey MCB, first glad to see the site back up again. I have missed it. Now some might remember I was going to test the efficiency of the Stock Trilogy valve vs. The Palmers valve vs. the Inception designs valve. Well after putting the Gun together with the ID valve, which was going to be the first one tested the gun wouldn't cycle. I bought a new main spring and used every valve spring out of a 4 piece spyder spring kit, nothing would allow it to cycle. after trying to remove the valve the cup seal was completely stuck. I lubed the entire tube along with the cup seal and reassembled, to no avail. The cup seal simply wouldn't move. meaning that the Inception designs valve was non functional (at least for me). Since I'm fairly confident in saying the Palmers valve is more efficient and over all better than the stock valve. Im saying that the Palmers is the winner.
The surprising turn of testing events.
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Love itThe cup seal simply wouldn't move. meaning that the Inception designs valve was non functional (at least for me). Since I'm fairly confident in saying the Palmers valve is more efficient and over all better than the stock valve. Im saying that the Palmers is the winner.
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When you installed the valve... did you screw the retaining nut in tight?
it’s not supposed to be tight. It’s supposed to float and allow the air pressure to self-Center the valve to align it. Just put the retention plug screw in just past flush.Comment
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I did, just barely in. everything I tried ended in the same situation. the cup seal stuck and having to be dislodged. its not the seal wasn't entering the valve, its that it wouldn't move at all, in or out of the valve, or even in the tube itself. I had to use a 5/16 long Allen wrench to force it out, I mean really force it out even after greasing up the tube.Comment
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It seemed to be the fins. The valve itself came out perfectly fine. the cup seal was like it was glued in. I considered trying to cut the fins, ultimately I decided against it. basically for two reasons. 1, for the purpose of the test itself I felt having to modify it compromised its results, not everyone would or could cut them the exact dimensions I would. Which would render the test moot. and 2, if it is simply a problem with the trilogy body (something I have no way of testing on its own), then if/when I get another Cocker if I wanted to use the valve it could be ruined. So I decided not to alter it, If I pick up another cocker and it slides right in no problem, I know it was the Trilly, if it doesn't work in that one either then I know its the cup seal.Comment
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I'm not doubting you, my test was purely which valve is the most efficient and best specifically in a Trilogy. If at a later time I can get the ID valve to work I will do the test the way I intended and have hard numbers of comparison. Until then, it is what it is.Comment
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The CCM 11/16 is just their 9/16 with a bigger housing to lock it into a 11/16 bore lower tube.
I mean, I agree with you, but it’s not an “11/16 valve”. It’s a 9/16 valve with a bigger housing.
great valve, tried tested and true, with an everlasting valve seal. But you miss out on the performance capability of a larger cross-section.Comment
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The Trilogy has a long, narrow tube in front of the valve to help keep the long spring from buckling. It's terrible for valve swaps and so on.
I installed an Empire valve in mine recently, and it seemed to work ok. It certainly needed that reg way lower than the stock Sport valve I had before.Feedback
www.PhrameworkDesigns.com < Nelspot, Sterling, and Phantom parts, plus the occasional big project.Comment
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