1st Autococker Project Advice

[Cdinnova76]

Hello! Posting a bunch of threads today. Been out of paintball since about 2003. Always wanted an autococker. I don’t play anymore, but after my father’s passing I went through paintball stuff and want to rebuild his micromags. I always wanted an autococker, and used to love the ads for the 99 bottom level one. I love tinkering and this project is much more about tinkering and building up something from bare bones then buying a nice one. I’d like to be able to upgrade every component reasonably for the fun of it. At the same time, It is my first one so I want a somewhat decent base. Any recommendations for ones to look for or specific parts with that in mind?

Thank you!

[Blackmagic71]

Welcome back to paintball!

You could post a “Want to buy” thread here looking for a body to start with, plus eBay has a pretty good variety of autocockers bodies at the moment.

Personally I like something with a threaded feedneck so I can put a clamping feedneck on it, just to make it a little more user friendly at the field.

Maybe avoid some of the low end stuff (like psycoballistics) that had poor quality control or others that had oddball threads, when in doubt you can’t go wrong with a WGP body in good condition.

For parts: Shocktech and Inception designs both still offer new high quality parts, but used WGP parts once rebuilt can still be a really good option for less money.

[Blackmagic71]

WGP is also back in business and making new bodies, so that’s an option as well.

https://worrgameproducts.com

[Cdinnova76]

I saw about the WGP! Thank you so much for the help. That’s the direction I was going to go in but didn’t have any idea about the removable feedbacks being a thing yet. Shows my age better than my hairline. Thank you so much for all of your help.

[Trbo323]

. I'd like to be able to upgrade every component reasonably for the fun of it.

Lol. That's where I started with mine as well. Now I have something that would likely sell for around $1200 today.

There's a few important things you should probably decide off the bat,

1) do you want it to be center feed or right feed?

Center feed will pretty much restrict you to a 2k cocker(there are a few exceptions to that). That's not a bad thing really as there's more parts options out there for 2k+ cockers. Right feed cockers were pretty much pre2k. On average they are a little larger and heavier.

2) full block, mid block or half block.

Full block is the easiest and cheapest to start with, there were only a few factory mid block markers and no half blocks but half block is such a common mod that it's fairly easy to find one. Mid block, the 2k5 black magic is probably the easiest to find but it's also on the expensive side

3) e marker or mechanical.

There were a lot more 2k+ cockers with e frames than pre2k, in the market today the prices are similar between the e frame and mechanical if the rest of the build is roughly equal. The down side is there's really only a few e frames to choose from that are easily available and if you get something cheap like a select fire frame, most players don't like those in the long run because of their lack of adjustability so you end up spending much more to get a e1 or e2 frame

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[$L!mBo]

buy the cheapest one you can find from someone on here. wgp style front end for ease of replacement seals and parts.
if anythings wrong with the internals just get an autocockerparts.com bottom tube kit.
a freak bored barrel will help tremendously. theres many folks offering to bore out barrels if you have one without
a revvy should be all you need for a hopper
and id just grab a used hpa tank 68 or 50ci 4500
even if its the plastic or potmetal frame, go for a single finger slider trigger
if you end up with a side feed body, look into Mozak Machine. he has a great feedneck mod and can mill your body if you want

initial purchases and supplies/setup

id budget ~$350-500

[Buff_phroggie]

If you want something cheap to mess with that doesnt really have any big value get a trilogy IMO. The first thing that "needs" to be done IMO is to cut the feedneck and an on/off asa.

The rest is just quality of life and messing around. They take 2k spec bolts and the TechT lpr adapter and adjustable timing rod are avaliable through TechT again. They are also 11/16 valves so the dye lazerus valve just drops in.

I have 8 and about 5 of them are at some level of appart for a build. These are the pics that I have handy of some of them.

[MrKittyCatMeowFace]

The Tarantual tip on the PRO SF is dope! I think that's what it was called, right?

[Magmoormaster]

I will usually push Trilogies to anyone looking at getting into cockers. They give you all the fun of owning and shooting a cocker with far less headache, not to mention they're cheaper and IMO perform slightly better. But since you don't play anymore, and are mostly looking to build and tinker, I'd suggest staying with a regular cocker. Your best bet is to start with a body kit, but if you can find a stock base cocker that would work too. Problem is, by this point in time, a good majority of base guns have already been built up.

[Buff_phroggie]

There are still some old raw prostock bodys on ebay. I have one for the wife at anno right now

[$L!mBo]

this was my first cocker!
entirely bacci parts! and sent out to Tim Firpo to be teched!
still have all these parts!

OH YEA!!

[Trbo323]

My first, and still only cocker (slightly less than stock)

I've owned a few others through the years but they were just to fix and sell. This one is my baby

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[Cdinnova76]

Wow thank y’all so much for all the help and suggestions! Really appreciate all of you taking the time to go into such great detail. A few weeks back I almost bought the basic 99 wgp model because that’s what I remembered the most in ads and such. I’m going to go back to the drawing board and research all of y’all’s advice. I will post updates once I finally get rolling

[Cdinnova76]

Whelp thanks to Mike1234 I have my first cocker. Pre 2k right feed. I know it hasn’t been used since pre covid so will need to probably clean and replace all the orings etc. going to look at that bottom tube kit y’all recommended

[MrKittyCatMeowFace]

I mean, air it up before you rip it apart. It's not unheard of, to pull old cockers out of decades long storage. And they still seal and shoot fine. If they were timed correctly. No reason they would lose the timing, from just sitting around. Good luck with the cocker! Have fun!

[Cdinnova76]

I mean, air it up before you rip it apart. It's not unheard of, to pull old cockers out of decades long storage. And they still seal and shoot fine. If they were timed correctly. No reason they would lose the timing, from just sitting around. Good luck with the cocker! Have fun!

I agree and was going to hook up the ASA and try. But after manually moving the bolt I could tell it needed some rings, oil, and some tlc before airing up. I’m new to cockers but I’m guessing rebuilding or replacing the front end is all that requires it to be timed again?

[Cdinnova76]