Brand new Psycho Ballistics AC! What to do with it!

[RustyShackleford]

Guys! I got my hands on a psycho ballistics AC. I know these things are generally known as junk guns. But I'd like to put a little time in to this one. I recently built (Bearded Works actually built it) a pretty sweet autococker from parts!! Now I got the itch for a new project. On a minty marker like this, do you guys have any suggestions? What should go on it? Any mods? I'm open to all suggestions I plan to do a write up about the finished and built autococker soon!

[Cdn_Cuda]

I think a pump kit may be in order. The front pneumatics weren’t great. As long as the body is milled well should be good to go.

[Buff_phroggie]

I have heard the same sentiment. I have enjoyed my 2 PB frames so far. A roller sear will help any frame

[Swedgin!!]

Pump it!!

[GanonsGrin]

Pump kit and throw that barrel in the trash. It bores out around 0.6grapefruit and will be useless. A new bolt would probably help as well. They really do make a solid and cheap pump, but you’ll be chasing leaks forever if you keep those front pneumatics. I can’t remember if the feedneck was sized right or too large as well, off the top of my head.

[Marco_Correa]

Change the LPR and you will be fine. Be careful with the threads for the frame attachment. They are fragile.

[RustyShackleford]

Thank you fellas! As much as I respect and admire your opinions- I'm too fat and too old to play pump against the young bucks shooting 10.2 at my field! I'd like to run it semi auto if possible- I decent LPR will be on the horizon for sure

[Trbo323]

Before anything, check the main body that everything can travel freely. I forget who but one of the members here had one of these that the tubes were not drilled parallel so it literally wouldn't even cycle. I really wonder if these came about because they were the blemish and reject dye ultralights

Just replace the whole front block pneumatics and you have a poor man's dye ultralight. Seriously those bodies and frames are identical they just cheaped out on the pnus. And for some reason changed the back block a little



Sent from my motorola edge 2024 using Tapatalk

[RustyShackleford]

I gotta air it up - dry firing with no air it cycles way smooth.
what in-line reg is small enough so the macroline fitting would like up straight with an inception on/off? I'm thinking a dye reg or a wdp mini reg

[Trbo323]

Cp. Put a swivel elbow on the bottom and they typically line up pretty well with most ASAs different versions of the CP reg are slightly different lengths and if you use something like a ccm fitting it gets shorter if that's what you need

Sent from my motorola edge 2024 using Tapatalk

[RustyShackleford]

Cp. Put a swivel elbow on the bottom and they typically line up pretty well with most ASAs different versions of the CP reg are slightly different lengths and if you use something like a ccm fitting it gets shorter if that's what you need

Sent from my motorola edge 2024 using Tapatalk

Thank you!!

[The Inflicted]

...and throw that barrel in the trash. It bores out around 0.6grapefruit and will be useless.

Keep the front, though.
It matches your anno and should mate with a DYE ultralite, Empire, or Sconi back.

A new bolt would probably help as well.

I got horrible blow-by with my Superbolt's bolt; so bad that I ended up wrapping the head of the bolt in transparent tape to get a better seal.
I kept thinking about getting a beater 2K bolt and drilling out the stock Superbolt backblock in order to use a traditional retaining pin. I suppose you could also swap the entire backblock and bolt for standard parts but that would look pretty weird.

I can’t remember if the feedneck was sized right or too large as well, off the top of my head.

Mine could take STO threaded feednecks. Threaded Intimidator feednecks would fit my Superbolt too, but not vice-versa.

At one point I experimented with removing the threaded stub altogether and replacing it with a reshaped 90 degree 3/4" copper elbow to make a forward-facing stock class feed, but it was too awkward to enjoy using.

[Magmoormaster]

Couple of random tips/comments:
-the frame screws are not the standard 10-32 threads you'd expect; they're like 10-28 or something weird.
-the valve spring is very light. I used one on a mini orracle build and it was shooting full velocity at 250 PSI without a volumizer.
-a buddy's superbolt was poorly milled to the point where only the stock valve would fit.
-there's a huge glob of grease where the trigger interacts with the sear, which does nothing to make it feel less gritty

I would definitely do what The Inflicted suggests; get an EVO length bolt and drill out the back block to use a regular bolt pin. I'm not normally one to recommend aftermarket bolts, but the stock bolt suuuuucks.

Less of a Superbolt issue and more of a general mini cocker issue; 2 o-ring 3ways are much more finicky/leaky on mini cocker than they are one full body guns. Normally the timing rod goes thru the VASA, which prevents it from sliding left or right very far. Obviously that doesn't happen on mini cockers, so the timing rod can slide out a ways and cause the 3way to leak. This is more prevalent on loose-fitting or short-shafted 3-ways. Just something to be aware of if you plan to keep it mech.Obviously if you're pumping it, it doesn't matter so much.

[The Inflicted]

Frame screws are 10-24. Different, but still easy to source.

[The Inflicted]

https://www.printables.com/model/307...bolt-tube-feed