Inception Hornet and Resurrection Mid-Block Autococker Trouble Shooting

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • keeptrying56
    Rockin and Cockin
    • Sep 2021
    • 89

    #1

    Inception Hornet and Resurrection Mid-Block Autococker Trouble Shooting

    Inception Hornet and Resurrection Mid-Block Autococker Trouble Shooting

    This was an interesting build that had some common issues with Inception and Resurrection midblock autocockers. I want to share all of my findings to help others get these guns up and running. I won’t be going into a full timing post as there are plenty of those, I will just focus on the unique areas of these guns.

    There were three issues that needed to be addressed:
    1. Sear skipping due Delrin triggers and large lower tube diameters in relation to hammer size
    2. Blow back due to LPR settings and valve springs
    3. Blow back due to sled position and bolt oring sizes
    Sear Skipping
    The sear skipping phenomenon was caused by two issues. The first problem was with the Inception Delrin trigger plate. These plates are known to have slightly larger tolerances around the frame glide pins to address swelling or shrinkage in different temperatures. However, this causes the trigger plate to have just enough slop in the upward and downward motion to alter sear engagement thus allowing the lug to occasionally slip. Charles Burd found the easiest fix for this is to use the new style Shocktech coned lug. However, this did not work on this build.

    The other sear skipping issue has to do with the Inception Retro bodies large lower tube tolerances. The larger lower tube allows the hammer to rock. The hammer rock is compounded even further due to the midblock bolt pin pushing erratically on the top upper edge of the hammer. If the body has extra wear or in my case a burr was shaved down which resulted in an even larger lower tube diameter. This caused significant hammer rock/slop resulting in sear slippage.


    Loose Delrin trigger plates, larger lower tube tolerances and odd angled bolt pin and hammer interactions equals inconsistent sear release. I fixed this issue by going back to a metal trigger plate and having a custom fat hammer made by BMC. A coned lug was not necessary after the fat hammer was installed.

    Blowback Due to LPR Settings and Valve Springs
    The LPR pressure needs to be strong enough to hold that bolt forward during the initial firing sequence. Make sure that bolt is not moving at all during the initial firing sequence. I had to turn my LPR up higher than normal to keep the bolt positioned properly.


    These midblock guns simply need stiffer valve springs to keep the dwell time to a minimum. You want the valve to open and close very quickly. I typically have to use stiffer valve springs in my ID midblocks to help reduce blow back. In this build a low-pressure valve (i.e. Meteor or Phat rat) helped reduce the overall operating pressure which reduced blow back.

    Sled and Ram Position
    This is a fun topic. All of the different bolt and sled designs require custom slide alignments. There is a slight difference between Inception, Tech T and Ressy bolts. There is also a slight difference between WGP and Inception sleds. I addressed this issue by using a red marking paint pen and placed a red dot dead center in the bolt’s port opening; see pic. I inserted the bolt with the red dot into the sled and positioned the assembly in the body. Look underneath the body where the valve retaining screw opening is and see if the red dot on the bolt is properly aligned with the port hole; see pic. For a Ressurection bolt with an ID slide the proper distance was approximately 3.4mm between the body and sled.


    The ram position is also a critical topic. The ID ram stroke length in relation to the hammer slot length can make for a fun time. For Inception rams, make sure to position the ram as close to the front block as possible. In my scenario I removed the anti-vibration oring and literally had the rear of the ram touching the front block.

    Bolt Design and Oring Size
    After trying three different bolts I ended up settling on a classic Ressy bolt. The oring size that absolutely sealed the bolt and breach was a metric 13.8 x 1.9 mm 70 dura (The Oring Store). For this build I had to remove the front oring for it to work properly.
    ​
  • keeptrying56
    Rockin and Cockin
    • Sep 2021
    • 89

    #2
    Pics
    Attached Files

    Comment

    • Myrkul
      2026 ICD Sponsored Team
      • Jul 2020
      • 926
      • Jaegers

      #3
      I knew this one had been problematic for its owner, but oof that's one hell of a lemon.

      Comment

      • CatFarmers
        MCB Member
        • Dec 2024
        • 156
        • Coastal NC

        #4
        Have a mid block Hornet that I recieved in pieces. The original owner purchased it as a kit. I had similar issues.
        I changed to a V3 Trident for the larger opening to give me a little more wiggle room for bolt positioning.
        Replaced pnuematics which included a ST ram. The original owners have zero knowledge on how threads work and the front block was also replaced.
        Trigger plate was replaced the the ID delrin upgrade and re spung with a coned lug on the hammer.
        Finally, the inside of the valve was replaced with a ST Phat Rat because somehow the inside and sealing surface was scratched all the hell. Ended up running Firesprings green/green, springing was ultimately the most irritating part of the resto.

        Runs like a champ and is my go to now.


        Comment

        • Cdn_Cuda
          You can finish projects?!
          • Jul 2020
          • 4560
          • Vancouver, BC

          #5
          Good info! Thanks for sharing. Always liked the look the ID midblock but wasn't aware of the issues.
          Cuda's Feedback

          Comment

          Working...